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1985, alternator, voltage regulator, xlx

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  #21  
Old 15th April 2013
morkrazy morkrazy is offline
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So, here we go again. Replaced the stator and rotor both last fall. Then I tore down my top end over the winter. Put it back together and started breaking in the motor. 75 miles and the battery was dead. I thought that was strange so I charged it up and got another 75 miles. Ok I know voltage regs can go bad as quick as light bulbs and though it only has 300-400 miles since the VR, stator and rotor were replaced may as well check and get another. It's the likely culprit right? No dice! So here I am, I replaced the whole charging system and have a nice new AGM battery and I can't keep it charged up.
Anyone care to venture a guess?
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  #22  
Old 15th April 2013
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if the charging system is new, and the battery is new- then I'd suspect as a guess your problem isn't in the charging system, but in something that is outside that system, that is drawing that battery down faster than it can be charged.

what happens when bike is left for a few days- does the battery remain at full charge, or is it drained down some? just curious

check all your wires and connections- something isn't allowing the battery to take a full charge, or is draining it while operating.

probably not possible to run it (being a "new" bike and all) with the lights shut down, but would be curious if it does the same thing with lights off- its an easy way to eliminate or confirm those particular circuits anyways.

could it as simple as loose battery connections, bad battery cables, bad ground?
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  #23  
Old 15th April 2013
morkrazy morkrazy is offline
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I ran it 20 miles with no light on and came home to find it was at 11.5 v. But I can let it sit for weeks and the battery will hold whatever charge it had. I'll have to get the ohm meter out and start looking for a short
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  #24  
Old 15th April 2013
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With the bike running at 2000 rpm or so, is it trying to charge the battery? Voltage at +14 volts or so while running?

If the charging voltage isn't around +14 volts when running at 2000 rpm, I'd start by disconnecting wires one at a time until I had only the bare minimum connected to let the bike run and charge the battery. No lights, accessories, etc. I'd measure the charging voltage after disconnecting each wire. (Carefully tape up the loose wire ends so nothing shorts out and causes more problems.)

If it's a short somewhere that's bad enough to drain the battery more than the system can charge the battery while running, I'd think you'd be burning up wires somewhere by now. If all else fails, I'd use the wiring diagram and verify all wires in the charging circuit are wired correctly, not loose or frayed, or burned, all ground connections are good, etc.

Assuming the parts you've been replacing are good, it just about has to be a wiring problem of some kind. So you may have to check all the wires and connections on the bike to find it.

Good luck.
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  #25  
Old 16th April 2013
morkrazy morkrazy is offline
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Since last summer, I've replaced the voltage reg twice, the stator and rotor, the turn signals, the handlebar controls, the ignition module and the horn. In a nutshell most of the wiring is new.... Gonna be a fun search
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  #26  
Old 16th April 2013
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So, pulling the batt cable, sitting still, it draws 1.25 milliamps, seems pretty low to me
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  #27  
Old 16th April 2013
morkrazy morkrazy is offline
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I should not have assumed the stator was good just because it's brand new. Checked it this morning when I got home from work and it is reading 5 volts at 3600 rpm. I'm ordering an Accel stator from jp today, should have it tomorrow or Thursday. Life time warranty on this one. The Indy mechanic that put the stator in last fall won't warranty shit, so I. Doing it myself and avoiding his shop in the future.
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