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  #11  
Old 24th March 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jollly Rogers View Post
Make it a sticky here too please!
Joe
Folkie did so

For item B, in post one, add this:

Check the chassis ground as well as the battery ground.

This is an example of the problems it can cause:

http://xlforum.net/forums/s...ground&page=36

Photos of location in the thread

It is also an example of why the collective experience of the Forum is beneficial.
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  #12  
Old 28th April 2016
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gravydog gravydog is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post

2. KEY ON battery voltage (headlight on): Normal is not under about 12.5 initially, but will decline the longer that the headlight is on, without the motor running. Under no load, 12.5 volts indicates 50% discharge, but under load, it is just voltage drop.
• If lower, then battery is discharged and needs charging or
• Battery has a bad cell or
• Battery cable(s) have high resistance

3. KEY ON battery voltage while cranking: Normal is not under 10.5 volts
• If lower, then battery is discharged and needs charging or
• Battery has a bad cell or
• Battery cable(s) have high resistance or
• Starter is drawing too much current

What would be considered high resistance for the battery cables? I've looked everywhere and can't seem to find it.
If I checked mine right they are between 1.2 and 1.5 ohms.
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  #13  
Old 28th April 2016
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I would expect less than 1 ohm with a solid connection of the meter leads - But sometimes it's hard to get a perfect probe connection...

I prefer to test using the battery voltage as a reference because the granularity of the measurement is smaller and most meters are more accurate reading slight changes in voltage levels rather that very small variations in resistance...

See the Sportsterpedia info here:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/h...place_to_start

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  #14  
Old 28th April 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gravydog View Post
What would be considered high resistance for the battery cables? I've looked everywhere and can't seem to find it.
If I checked mine right they are between 1.2 and 1.5 ohms.
Google AWG resistance
Here is one of many charts
http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/AWG.phtml
6 gauge is 0.00130 ohms per foot
2 feet would be 0.0026

When connected, factor in the resistance at the battery post clamp and the larger factor of resistance at the motor connection.

I would not expect more than 0.1 ohm

However, how good are you probing the ends?
Use alligator clips, if you can.
There are dents in my lead battery posts from an aggressive probe.
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  #15  
Old 28th April 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
...it's hard to get a perfect probe connection...
Yep, so don't probe too gently!
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  #16  
Old 29th April 2016
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Thanks guys, I made new cables today, seemed to start a lot better, still had voltage dropping to around 9.5 when starting so I ordered an all balls solenoid rebuild kit.
I was only able to find 4 gauge cable locally, should I order some 2awg welding wire and make new cables again, or just run with the 4 gauge?
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  #17  
Old 29th April 2016
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4 gauge is fine
It may need a solenoid or the battery may not pass a load test
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  #18  
Old 29th April 2016
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The battery load tested fine, I did it 4 times just to be sure. Voltage was dropping to 4.5 before I replaced the cables. The all balls solenoid kit was only $16 on Amazon, so I'd rather have the part's here before I take it apart to inspect the contacts.


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  #19  
Old 31st July 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gravydog View Post
The battery load tested fine, I did it 4 times just to be sure. Voltage was dropping to 4.5 before I replaced the cables. The all balls solenoid kit was only $16 on Amazon, so I'd rather have the part's here before I take it apart to inspect the contacts.
Forum peeve #6

http://xlforum.net/forums/s...1820954&page=6

No, I am not grumpy this morning, just trying to sort loose ends
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  #20  
Old 31st July 2017
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I apologise Doc, that's one of my peeves to, and I am guilty.

Anyway, here's the rest of the story.
I installed the rebuild kit in the solenoid, the contacts were pitted and burnt, I also bought new All Balls battery cables, I didn't trust the ones I made. After all of that It still cranked over kind of weak so I replaced the battery with a new one and all is right with the world.

In the end I may have replaced some parts I didn't need to because I couldn't bring myself to believe that a 1 year old Harley Davidson battery was bad, but that's how we learn right?

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