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  #1  
Old 13th November 2019
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ferretface ferretface is offline
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Default Powerraythor conversion

I am in the process of converting the generator & regulator on my 1983 XLH to one of Ray Duguay's Powerraythor 65 A alternators. I ride mostly in the city and rarely get above 2500rpm to keep the [new] battery charged.

I am ashamed to admit that I am electrically challenged and that the wiring diagrams in the paper H-D repair manual and on the CD version are impossible to read wiring colors or routings.

Ray's instructions are general and he advises owners like myself to consult with someone with automotive electrical systems knowledge. My nephew is one such but he will be incapacitated for some time.

Has anyone with an 83 XLH successfully converted their system to the Powerraythor and can tell me specifically which wires to connect or add???

I thank the members in advance!

--Rich B.
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  #2  
Old 13th November 2019
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I think that is a one wire alt (self exciting)
So it needs just a #12 (minimum) wire to the battery positive.
If it uses a second wire it usually goes to the Gen light. (tan? OEM wire)
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Old 14th November 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
I think that is a one wire alt (self exciting)
So it needs just a #12 (minimum) wire to the battery positive.
If it uses a second wire it usually goes to the Gen light. (tan? OEM wire)
Yes, Ray mentions the Powerraythor external bolt/post goes to the battery positive; I assume the alternator case itself is the ground. Ray's instructions say that one Powerraythor wire goes to the gen light, the other to the ignition switch.

I would prefer to retain the original wiring, and use it if possible. I *think* the yellow Powerraythor wire goes to the gen light and the green wire to the ignition switch. But I'm having trouble reading the cursed wiring schematic to figure out which OEM wires those two would connect to, or if I need to run add-on wiring. The color-coding is impossible to read.

The ignition switch is a bitch to even get to to look at, much less work on.
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Old 14th November 2019
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I noticed, in another thread, a member commented on the price of the Powerraythor compared to the 'other' alternator conversion. There seem to be several posts of the 'other' conversion failing, while there are none for the Powerraythor. The Denso unit is a compact, rugged, and integrally regulated unit designed and built for hard use.

The members might be interested, as I was, as how the Denso alternator was modified to fit and mount in the Harley-Davidson frame. Here is a pic showing the same Denso alternator before and after Ray converts it to the Powerraythor 65 A.



There is a LOT of work there! Disassembly, milling or grinding the tractor mounting bosses off, smoothing the case, blasting and painting it. Machining the armature shaft to accept the H-D gear. Fabricating a mounting flange from aluminum plate to act as the mount. Sourcing the pigtail/electrical plug for the two wires for the gen light and ignition switch.

It is a time consuming process (I am a retired millwright/machinist/welder) for all concerned with not a lot of reward. I count myself fortunate that I was able to purchase one of Ray's conversions.

My reason, as stated in my post, is that I do the bulk (90%+) of my riding around town. Rarely do I see 2500rpm (gen light goes out) on my tach, which is when my H-D generator begins charging the battery. The Powerraythor starts charging and the gen light goes out at 1000rpm.

I am confident that this conversion will keep my battery charged and not let me down when I least expect it.
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Old 15th November 2019
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I wasn't expecting all the views to this thread; my bad for not being clearer in the thread title...

But, as long as I'm plowing on in this conversion, here's a pic of my ignition switch...



Now, Ray's instructions say to run a 10ga wire from bolt on alternator body (that big post) to the pos terminal of the battery. OK, I got that. Next Ray's instructions say to run the green wire from the Denso alternator plug to the ignition switch.

There is nothing stating to remove any ignition switch wires. Both the white wire on the ignition switch and the green wire receive voltage when the switch is switched on. The green wire goes to the 'lts' relay (in the wiring diagram), and the white wire (which has a second green wire 'jumper' between the 'L' terminal/green wire, and the 'IG' terminal/white wire) goes to the ignition relay. (The red ign switch wire/'B' terminal goes to the 'main' relay).

So, do I want to connect the green wire from the alternator plug to the white wire/'IG' terminal on the ignition switch??? Leaving all other wires intact???

I'm still trying to locate the color of the gen idiot light so I can connect the yellow wire to it.

I'll cap off the OEM regulator connector plug and the two OEM generator wires down where the generator/regulator were.

Does all that sound right to you guys who have converted their late-83/early 84 generator XL's to the Powerraythor???

This would keep all the original wiring connectors intact in case I wanted to revert to the OEM generator/regulator.

Comments encouraged. And my Thanks! go out to Class Of 82 and blk80bike for their help.

Last edited by ferretface; 18th November 2019 at 03:31..
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Old 17th November 2019
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I've mounted my Powerraythor on my 83 XLH. I had an email from a member commenting that the Powerraythor/Denso alternator wouldn't fit his 80 XLH no matter how he reconfigured the alternator case. Grinding was required.

Mine was a nice fit. I bound up the regulator plug from the H-D OEM harness along with the two generator leads underneath the alternator.



I only have 14ga wire, and not the right colors. I'll run the new wiring this coming week and see how it looks. I may have to wait until May to test it. No electricians in my peer group.
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  #7  
Old 17th November 2019
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Hi

What is the problem with the wiring ? install a main wire from postive on battery to the M6 copper studs ,that will serve to charge the battery,...

The green and yellow need voltage to work but only when key is turn on ,not always on or it will drain the battery,use a test light turn the switch on you have 12 volts then turn switch of no more voltage use the post on switch accordingly ,the idiot light only work when switch is on ,then switch off idiot is also off,

Disconnect one wire at a time from the switch until the idiot does not turn on at the first click of the switch,I prefer to go throw a breakers for the idiot light and ,the idiot light I have on my 66, have a plastic housing to isolate it from the dash

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  #8  
Old 18th November 2019
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this is 1 trippy thread
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Old 18th November 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlebagrail View Post
Hi

What is the problem with the wiring ?
My problem is I was off fishing the day they explained electric circuits in school...

...And the Harley-Davidson wiring diagram sucks the big one...

I think I got it now though. Your instructions suggest connecting both green and yellow Powerraythor wires together and connect them to the switch-on post on ignition switch. My switch has three positions but there is a jumper across the 2nd and 3rd position so that is in effect one position. (Pic attached). The first position is everything off, and is the only position where the key can be removed.



So I can just run the new 10ga red wire from the Powerraythor bolt/post to the battery positive post; all good. Then I can run both the green and yellow wires to either the 2nd or 3rd ignition switch post, since they're jumpered. That should do it, am I correct???

I guess my only other question at this point is whether I should disconnect any of the original ignition switch wires. The original regulator (and generator) has been removed and the regulator plug has been blanked off. The two 'A' and 'F' wires from the original generator have been blanked off also. That's in case I want to revert to generator power.

I have a new ignition switch coming as this one looks like crap. And I need wire. And crimp-on connectors. When I get this done, I'll be ready to crank it up and fry the wiring harness.
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Old 18th November 2019
saddlebagrail saddlebagrail is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferretface View Post
My problem is I was off fishing the day they explained electric circuits in school...

...And the Harley-Davidson wiring diagram sucks the big one...

I think I got it now though. Your instructions suggest connecting both green and yellow Powerraythor wires together and connect them to the switch-on post on ignition switch. My switch has three positions but there is a jumper across the 2nd and 3rd position so that is in effect one position. (Pic attached). The first position is everything off, and is the only position where the key can be removed.



So I can just run the new 10ga red wire from the Powerraythor bolt/post to the battery positive post; all good. Then I can run both the green and yellow wires to either the 2nd or 3rd ignition switch post, since they're jumpered. That should do it, am I correct???

I guess my only other question at this point is whether I should disconnect any of the original ignition switch wires. The original regulator (and generator) has been removed and the regulator plug has been blanked off. The two 'A' and 'F' wires from the original generator have been blanked off also. That's in case I want to revert to generator power.

I have a new ignition switch coming as this one looks like crap. And I need wire. And crimp-on connectors. When I get this done, I'll be ready to crank it up and fry the wiring harness.
You should be good maybe a circuit breaker in line to protect from short,install to have 12 volts when you turn key on and idiot light is on,sometimes everything works fine except the battery drain over night cause by the idiot light most of the time not isolated.
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