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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 18th November 2019
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ferretface ferretface is offline
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this is 1 trippy thread
Forum threads should be entertaining as well as educational.
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  #12  
Old 18th November 2019
class of 82 class of 82 is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: sportster xlh
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I used a #10 wire to Batt and #14 gauge to switch.

#10 wire to BAtt

#14 green to either of the key switch post 2 or 3

correct jumper powers both clicks(DOT mandate in 75-76 headlight on all the time) = the green jumper on 3rd post.

#14 yellow to 2 wire plastic body idiot light mounted in headlight clam shell/2nd idiot light wire to ground.

light on with key power, goes off when engine runs and alt has charge output.

on install I wired both the green/yellow together and ran#14 wire to key switch. work fine this way.

after your PM to me I went and redid mine over weekend like I stated above. I now have idiot light working and alt charging fine.

** my 1 wire/led/metal ground body light I wanted for the idiot would not work. confirmed that with Ray.
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  #13  
Old 18th November 2019
class of 82 class of 82 is offline
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yes, tape up gen wires and tuck away for later use going back to genny.

green wire to 2nd or 3rd post on switch eithers fine.

no, do not remove any wires from switch, just add the tickle wire from alt.

FYI wires are best soldered to eyelets.

I used small crimp connecter with a good pair of crimpers. but I removed the plastic insulator from the eyelet to reduce bulk at switch connections.

if your wires are too short to work. solder splice some wire on and then hook it up to switch.
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  #14  
Old 18th November 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferretface View Post
... there is a jumper across the 2nd and 3rd position so that is in effect one position...
You can remove that little green wire. It is there by USA law that requires that the headlight is always on.

The consequence is that the headlight will come on only at the 3rd switch position, so you will have a choice whether to run it on or not. This is useful when you are miles from home and the gen light comes on and you want to save power. Note that the headlight draws more power than all the rest of the motorcycle, so it is useful to be able to shut it off when the gen is not functioning. This also helps when trying to start the engine with a low battery

What I did with mine is just looped it on one of the two terminals that it joins, so it can easily be put back.
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  #15  
Old 18th November 2019
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Originally Posted by ferretface View Post
Forum threads should be entertaining as well as educational.
For educational purposes I can dumb this down for those that find the alternator confusing. The wire that goes from the alternator post to the battery is the charging wire that keeps the battery alive. The wire that goes to the gen. Light is a 12v wire from the regulator in the alternator to the light to let you know its charging.

The other wire that goes to the ignition switch can be put on any hot wire anywhere after the fuses really, its a sensor wire that tells the alternator how much current its putting out, the farther away from the battery it is the more current the alternator will throw out. You can put it directly on the "to gen light" right after it exits the alternator and it will work as well, it will just be getting a closer signal and putting out slightly less voltage than from a wire farther away. I usually put it on the tail light wire at the rear, instead of at switch. I'm sure there's an easier way to put this last part but its easy enough to understand I think.
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  #16  
Old 18th November 2019
class of 82 class of 82 is offline
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I ask this.. why not/can you? use the stock red wire from genny/regulator plug on the harrness side in place of the #10 wire you run from alt/Batt post?

I did that with one of the spinning cup magnet alt conversion/regulator.

it seemed to work fine but every now and then it would stay headlight on/running when I turned the key off.

try blipping the throttle and it would kill the engine/light. so I went back to running the #10 wire to Batt and never did that again.

I would much rather use the stock red wire in the harness and the stock "gen" wire to light if possible.

last one... would the stock harness small "field" wire next to the small "gen" wire work for the green wire from alt plug?

in other words, can you use the 3 stock harness wires for the alt to work properly?

that would clean it up nice with no extra/color wires on the bike.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 83xls View Post
For educational purposes I can dumb this down for those that find the alternator confusing. The wire that goes from the alternator post to the battery is the charging wire that keeps the battery alive. The wire that goes to the gen. Light is a 12v wire from the regulator in the alternator to the light to let you know its charging.

The other wire that goes to the ignition switch can be put on any hot wire anywhere after the fuses really, its a sensor wire that tells the alternator how much current its putting out, the farther away from the battery it is the more current the alternator will throw out. You can put it directly on the "to gen light" right after it exits the alternator and it will work as well, it will just be getting a closer signal and putting out slightly less voltage than from a wire farther away. I usually put it on the tail light wire at the rear, instead of at switch. I'm sure there's an easier way to put this last part but its easy enough to understand I think.
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  #17  
Old 18th November 2019
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ferretface ferretface is offline
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OK, I've run around to NAPA and Harbor Freight and got wires and connectors. I wired the Powerraythor as recommended here, and also as per Ray Duguay's suggestion on combining the green & yellow alternator wires. I would have run the yellow wire to the gen bulb but I really don't want to take the triple tree and headlamp apart.

Here's the completed wiring, just three wires.



Here's a closeup of the ignition switch, with jumper wire disconnected. I might try it this way. 3rd position lights on.



Here's a pic of the red relay wire, the new red alternator wire, and whatever that big black wire is that goes on the battery positive post along with those other two. I haven't noticed anyone saying to disconnect it. Should I???



And here's a pic of a spanner used to remove the flash hider nut from an M14 rifle. I qualified with the M14 in boot camp back in 1969-70. When I went on to ITR a month later, we had switched over to the M16. But if you can find this wrench, it is good for the ignition switch bezel/nut.



I hope this is all correctly wired as suggested in this particular thread, which is for my 1983 XLH Sportster. Other years/models may vary.

I'll admit, I'm the stupidest member of this forum. But I have an excuse: I turned 70 last week. And when I go to bed at night and wake up in the morning, I forget everything.

So a big Thank You! to all the members who have given me their help, in emails, PMs, and posts.
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  #18  
Old 18th November 2019
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I'll admit, I'm the stupidest member of this forum. But I have an excuse: I turned 70 last week. And when I go to bed at night and wake up in the morning, I forget everything.
Everyone has their strong and weak areas. I’ve learned plenty from reading your posts on different topics.
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  #19  
Old 19th November 2019
class of 82 class of 82 is offline
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looks like a great job terminating the wire ends too me. nice workmanship.

same way I had mine at first. except I spliced the alt plug wires together and only run 1 wire to the switch with red charge wire under the engine with genny wires for a 2 wire hook up per say.

I got lucky and bought 3 other 82,83,E84 harnesses used with no cuts or splices with headlight bucket all intact. that made it easy to replace my 82 harness when building.

I am like you when dealing with electrical wires and don't want to open the HL bucket and have another learning curve. not yet anyways.

Rays alt conversion just fixed my issues after 3 of the spinning cup/magnet alt failures..again I was very lucky on all 3 of those failures with no engine damage.

LOL! only a 1200$ learning curve on 82 ironhead charging system for me But looks like you got it right the first time and way cheaper.

That Sir is no Dummy!
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  #20  
Old 19th November 2019
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ferretface ferretface is offline
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Originally Posted by class of 82 View Post
looks like a great job terminating the wire ends too me.
I forgot to add that I soldered and shrink wrapped all connections.

I ran both alternator wires to the switch instead of joining them so if I had to take the triple tree/headlamp apart for some reason, I would have the option of running the yellow wire right to the gen lamp. I'll wrap the ugly looking wires in some kind of wire loom covering.

Working on this cycle is not easy. You can't just take a part off to work on or replace it. You have to take three other parts off first. Like removing the horn and choke cable to get at the ignition switch. Or removing the rear exhaust pipe & muffler to check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder.
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