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  #21  
Old 19th November 2019
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IronMick IronMick is offline
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The list of parts that you have to remove from a 1980< XLH to remove the solenoid is to long to list, and too frustrating to think about
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  #22  
Old 19th November 2019
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ferretface ferretface is offline
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Here's another uniquely Harley-Davidson problem. The handlebars it came with were too wide to ride through the people-door in my one-car garage, so I bought a set similar but narrower. But the front master cylinder hit the speedometer gauge and the brake/throttle wouldn't slide on all the way - the banjo bolt hit the speedo.

So, after a member here pointed out that I could disassemble the speedo & tach without too much trouble, I removed the chrome gauge mount, cut one inch out of the middle and welded it back together, and re-installed the gauges. Now it fits through the door and the brake/throttle is on pretty much all the way.

Pic shows narrowed gauge mount with an OEM mount above it.



I can hardly wait for the next part that needs fixing/replacing.
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  #23  
Old 19th November 2019
class of 82 class of 82 is offline
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yes, it is fun fun fun I tell you!

IMHO, what I have read and have now done it is rather easy to work on.

I have had mine down and split cases for rebuild got screwed started over on my own and just bit the bullet and did it myself. I now have almost a 2nd E84 built from ebay parts and left overs now.

what I have learned is the 82 is the 25th anniversary for the sportster, 83 is a anniversary yr also the yr Harley was bought back from AMF.

IMHO-they did not screw it up again till the late 84-85 ironheads with the alt behind the clutch basket.

addicting also. I have 6 late model cyl heads/4 new cyls/2 primary set ups/ whole crap load of small misc stuff/3 complete wire harness-2 xlh 1-E84 roadster

working on a set of empty cases/trap door/primary & cam covers to build a 74 cubic inch stroker next

find a good machinist you can trust for the really important stuf and do the rest your self. only a couple special tools needed and most can be fabbed up at home.

sucks 4-5 things come off too do something but you get to know your sporty and you will find things before the are issues. like cracks/broke mounting tabs.

my rear MC was like that also. I got the 40" drag pipes and it only needed turned at the cyl port and adjust the rear pipe mount..got about a finger width

last of an era with 82/83/E84 ironheads.
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  #24  
Old 19th November 2019
paulc paulc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMick View Post
The list of parts that you have to remove from a 1980< XLH to remove the solenoid is to long to list, and too frustrating to think about
Feels the same on my 76 too. On the plus side these bikes have a lot less of that than many. A friend of mine has a Ducati on which virtually any simpe job involves first removing many parts to gain access.
Paul

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  #25  
Old 20th November 2019
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OK, with everything connected as described in post/pics above (green alt + yellow alt wires connected to 'IG' on ign switch + white wire), I connected the battery and turned the ign switch to position #2. Oil pressure lamp came on but not the Gen lamp. Turned handlebar rocker switch to 'Run' and then hit 'Start' rocker. Engine turns over, still no Gen lamp. I turned ign switch to position #3, got F&R lights on plus Oil pressure lamp, no Gen lamp. Hit 'Start' and engine turns over.

My question here is - Should the Gen lamp be on with the engine turning over with it wired this way??? Showing that it has not reached the rpm where the alternator will charge the battery...

(The Gen lamp worked OK before removing the generator/regulator).

No tank or gas; cycle is in my house. If all had worked, I would open a door and connected gas tank w/gas and fired it up to check voltage. Ten inches of snow outside, taking it for a ride is not practical.

Last edited by ferretface; 20th November 2019 at 23:13..
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  #26  
Old 20th November 2019
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class of 82.july 4th 1981 the motor co.was bought back from amf.
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  #27  
Old 20th November 2019
saddlebagrail saddlebagrail is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferretface View Post
OK, with everything connected as described in post/pics above (green alt + yellow alt wires connected to 'IG' on ign switch + white wire), I connected the battery and turned the ign switch to position #2. Oil pressure lamp came on but not the Gen lamp. Turned handlebar rocker switch to 'Run' and then hit 'Start' rocker. Engine turns over, still no Gen lamp. I turned ign switch to position #3, got F&R lights on plus Oil pressure lamp, no Gen lamp. Hit 'Start' and engine turns over.

My question here is - Should the Gen lamp be on with the engine turning over with it wired this way??? Showing that it has not reached the rpm where the alternator will charge the battery...

(The Gen lamp worked OK before removing the generator/regulator).

No tank or gas; cycle is in my house. If all had worked, I would open a door and connected gas tank w/gas and fired it up to check voltage. Ten inches of snow outside, taking it for a ride is not practical.
idiot light should be «on» when you turn the ignition and will stay «on» until the engine start ,then it will go out if connect correctly,mean system is charging correctly,those Poweraythor has been check in every step of the building process,friom start to finish and final test with load test and idiot light in line,I mean every single one of them has been check and test that way,Ray
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  #28  
Old 20th November 2019
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ferretface ferretface is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlebagrail View Post
idiot light should be «on» when you turn the ignition and will stay «on» until the engine start ,then it will go out if connect correctly
That is what I had surmised from your instructions. Would you have any idea what I may have wired incorrectly??? Or what may still be wired but shouldn't be???
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  #29  
Old 21st November 2019
saddlebagrail saddlebagrail is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferretface View Post
That is what I had surmised from your instructions. Would you have any idea what I may have wired incorrectly??? Or what may still be wired but shouldn't be???
your idiot light have one or 2 wires ? and housing of the idiot light is metal or plastic ?
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  #30  
Old 21st November 2019
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ferretface ferretface is offline
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Originally Posted by saddlebagrail View Post
your idiot light have one or 2 wires ? and housing of the idiot light is metal or plastic ?
Looking up under the visor, I see two black wires going into a white plastic housing.
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