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  #11  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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The Solenoid Connection from the Starter Relay is called a Spade Lug. Any auto or hardware store will have sets of these in different sizes. Choose the right size and choose the female lug that has two rolled over edges. Be sure to have the right crimp size & also solder the wire to the female lug - Then put the plastic cover over the wire end of the lug.

Here's some general info about wire gauge and current loads:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:ref:elec01

Here's what H-D used for wire gauge & colors:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:elec01

Your Headlight Hi-Lo switch needs to have ONE hot wire in from the Keyswitch & TWO OUTGOING WIRES - One wire from the Headlight switch goes to the High Beam & the other wire from the Headlight switch goes to the Low Beam - Normally, they are not run at the same time, but you switch between one of them or the other.

Also be sure to add fuses AFTER THE KEYSWITCH to run the ignition circuit, the light circuit and the accessories circuit. See the diagram of the starter circuit I posted above. Each fuse will protect the wiring down range from the Keyswitch to the device(s).


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  #12  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Attaxic Attaxic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMek View Post
Your starter relay actually has a diagram on the top showing how it should be wired. Pins 85 and 86 are for the two control wires - one goes to your Start button and the other to ground. It doesn't matter which goes where.

Pins 87, 87a, and 30 are the switched wires. Notice that the diagram shows 30 and 87a connected with a diagonal line - this means they are connected when the relay is off. Don't wire your starter to 87a or it'll run whenever the key is on! Instead, the starter should be connected across 30 and 87. Green wire to the starter solenoid should go to 30, the other wire (your big yellow one I think) goes to the ACC breaker or another positive fused connection. Note, don't do this one backwards or 87a will be energized all the time. Not a good idea to have an unconnected positive terminal hanging in the breeze - potential short circuits and such.

Your headlamp is a standard H4 plug. One terminal goes to Ground, one is for low beam, and one for high beam. You can get the matching female socket at auto parts places, though regular female blade terminals will work in a pinch.

As far as battery connections, only three wires should connect directly to your battery: the big ground cable, the big positive cable to the starter, and the wire going to your main fuse or circuit breaker. All other fuses or breakers should branch off the main. By this, I mean if you look at your Main fuse/breaker, one end should go to the battery and the other to your other stuff (probably the key switch is your first stop). Only the battery should be connected to one side of the breaker/fuse, otherwise you've bypassed it.

On the wiring diagram for my 82, the Main breaker has one end connected to the battery and the other connected to the generator and key switch. I'd suggest the same connection when wiring your generator.

The secondary fuses/breakers should also be rated for less than the main - the idea is if your headlight shorts, you want your lights to go out but the engine to keep running. Easier to diagnose where the problem is and less likely to leave you stranded.

Edit: You have multiple terminals on your starter solenoid because it's also a relay, just a heck of a lot bigger. The green wire going in is one of the control wires; the other control wire is the body of the starter connected to ground. The switched wires are the big one from the battery and the stubby one going to the starter motor.
Woof ok I'm getting it..I am going to make a new plug and pins tomorrow. Need to learn how to wire a plug.. The ones on it were, just wrong, from your explanation. There was previously only 4 wires coming out. Or am I wrong? (How do I say this->) Does the thicker yellow wire act for the 30 and 87a? Like 2 in 1 deal? 87 to starter. 85,86 switch. That would make sense and when the circuit connects it activates 87(starter motor)? Although, which one needs to receive the power? It's 5 pin obviously. Is that the 30 and 87a connection? Or am I trailing off here? In conclusion the starter motor/solenoid only should have a positive to batt, one to relay, and the motor to solenoid is already made up. You just mentioned it's also a relay so the top terminal is not used? Positive terminal hanging removed.

I've notice a few things simply "go to ground". Does that mean to a part of the bike frame? Or can I make up a ground and connect a few things to it? Like the Headlamp.

Understood on battery connections. So if something needs power, connect it to the other side of the main. Correct me if I am wrong. My main fuse is to be a 30a and I have a few more 15a to use for everything else. Like you said keep the bike running but if the lamp goes out it all good.

I did not understand how to wire to generator. My instructions http://www.cycleelectricinc.com/DGV-5000%20Install.htm
it says to put a 20a fuse between gen power and the battery. It also says a 2 wire insulated socket. (2 cables wrapped right?) Does that mean I can connect it to the other end of my main breaker? You know the one connected to the batt. No Generator light yet so only one post get wired. It says to use 16 gauge. will 14 pass?

I have learned a lot, my brain is processing it now. Thank you, you're a Legend.
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  #13  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
The Solenoid Connection from the Starter Relay is called a Spade Lug. Any auto or hardware store will have sets of these in different sizes. Choose the right size and choose the female lug that has two rolled over edges. Be sure to have the right crimp size & also solder the wire to the female lug - Then put the plastic cover over the wire end of the lug.

Here's some general info about wire gauge and current loads:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:ref:elec01

Here's what H-D used for wire gauge & colors:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:elec01

Your Headlight Hi-Lo switch needs to have ONE hot wire in from the Keyswitch & TWO OUTGOING WIRES - One wire from the Headlight switch goes to the High Beam & the other wire from the Headlight switch goes to the Low Beam - Normally, they are not run at the same time, but you switch between one of them or the other.

Also be sure to add fuses AFTER THE KEYSWITCH to run the ignition circuit, the light circuit and the accessories circuit. See the diagram of the starter circuit I posted above. Each fuse will protect the wiring down range from the Keyswitch to the device(s).


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Copy that.. These fuses, what kind should they be? 2 pronged and 20Amp?
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  #14  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Attaxic Attaxic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMek View Post
The solenoid on the starter has a bolt terminal for the jumbo wire straight to Battery + and a blade terminal for the green wire from the start relay. The start relay has two control wires and two switched wires. Your wiring diagram will tell you how those wires need to be connected, but the operation is pretty simple: handlebar switch -> start relay -> starter solenoid -> starter motor. That arrangement isolates your tiny handlebar switches from the huge currents necessary to operate the starter solenoid and motor.
Killer! Totally got that. I Just need a button now. I do have a 4 point key ignition. 4th turns over the bike. But I am used to being able to start the bike on the bars.
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  #15  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Here is a process to check out your entire wire system, and to learn how it all works. It is a bit tedious but it is worth the couple of shop days it takes to complete. Take a look, you might want to do it now or come back to it later...

Ironhead Voltage Drop Testing
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1608465

Here is a process to check out the charging system. This is usually done before the voltage drop testing...

Ironhead Charging System Checkout
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=39146
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  #16  
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Attaxic Attaxic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMick View Post
Here is a process to check out your entire wire system, and to learn how it all works. It is a bit tedious but it is worth the couple of shop days it takes to complete. Take a look, you might want to do it now or come back to it later...

Ironhead Voltage Drop Testing
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1608465

Here is a process to check out the charging system. This is usually done before the voltage drop testing...

Ironhead Charging System Checkout
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=39146
Right on thank you Mick I'll be reading up. Taking it slow.. Even though there isn't much. Cheers
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  #17  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attaxic View Post
Woof ok I'm getting it..I am going to make a new plug and pins tomorrow. Need to learn how to wire a plug.. The ones on it were, just wrong, from your explanation. There was previously only 4 wires coming out. Or am I wrong? (How do I say this->)
The relay has 5 pins, but the plug should only have 4 wires. The 5th pin (87a) isn't used so it's not connected to anything. You can use regular spade terminals if you want. It's easier than the plug but a little less convenient. If you do, I suggest getting the insulated kind (they have plastic covering the whole thing) and putting an empty connector over the unused pin. That'll help prevent accidental shorts.

Does the thicker yellow wire act for the 30 and 87a? Like 2 in 1 deal? 87 to starter. 85,86 switch. That would make sense and when the circuit connects it activates 87(starter motor)? Although, which one needs to receive the power? It's 5 pin obviously. Is that the 30 and 87a connection? Or am I trailing off here?
If you look at the diagram on your relay, the diagonal line connecting pins 30 and 87a represents a physical switch in there, usually a strip of metal that flops back and forth. When the relay is off, that strip connects 30 and 87a - a spring holds it there. When the relay turns on, the strip flops over to connect 30 and 87 and -disconnects- 87a. You want your power to go into 87, from the ACC breaker/fuse through the orange/yellow wire, because if it went into 30 then 87a would be energized all the time and badness could result. You want the power to go Batt -> Breaker -> Pin 87 -> Pin 30 -> Starter Solenoid.

In conclusion the starter motor/solenoid only should have a positive to batt, one to relay, and the motor to solenoid is already made up. Correct.You just mentioned it's also a relay so the top terminal is not used? Positive terminal hanging removed. I meant it functions like a relay. Small current moves a switch to pass larger current. Biggest differences are size and that it only has 4 connections.

I've notice a few things simply "go to ground". Does that mean to a part of the bike frame? Or can I make up a ground and connect a few things to it? Like the Headlamp. Either will work. Basically, the electrical system uses the frame, engine, handlebars, and everything else metal to avoid having to run wires back to the negative side of the battery. The electricity doesn't care if it gets back to negative through a wire or through the frame, as long as it gets there. Paint, rust, chrome, etc. get in the way, so it's a good idea to make sure your grounds (whether with a wire or not) are clean and well connected.

Understood on battery connections. So if something needs power, connect it to the other side of the main. Correct me if I am wrong. My main fuse is to be a 30a and I have a few more 15a to use for everything else. Like you said keep the bike running but if the lamp goes out it all good. Yes. Battery -> Main -> Key -> Other Breakers is the usual approach. There should always be a breaker or fuse between the battery and whatever you're connecting, otherwise your wiring becomes the fuse.

I did not understand how to wire to generator. My instructions http://www.cycleelectricinc.com/DGV-5000%20Install.htm
it says to put a 20a fuse between gen power and the battery. It also says a 2 wire insulated socket. (2 cables wrapped right?) Does that mean I can connect it to the other end of my main breaker? You know the one connected to the batt. No Generator light yet so only one post get wired. It says to use 16 gauge. will 14 pass? For clarity, you want to attach the generator to the other side of the Main breaker, not the side the battery is hooked to. That way if the wire from the generator shorts out, the breaker will trip instead of the wire melting. 14 Ga is bigger than 16 so no problems there. Bigger is rarely a problem until you can't get the wires to fit anymore, though the extra cost isn't always worth it.

I read the instructions and I think the "two wire insulated socket" they refer to is for the generator light. As in, you can't use a regular bulb socket because it won't work right. So you can ignore that part and just run one wire from the generator back to the Main breaker.


I have learned a lot, my brain is processing it now. Thank you, you're a Legend.
Happy to help.
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  #18  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMek View Post
Happy to help.
I had a few questions..

My oil pump should be connected, where? Along with the generator or something right? That way it turns on when I switch?

And I have a push start momentary contact switch for my push to start. It has two cables coming out of it. One to the relay and do I splice the other to the key switch ignition?

Thanks! You and everyone else has helped me immensely. I was able to set up everything else
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  #19  
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Think about it this way: all the circuits on your bike need an uninterrupted path from + to - (ground) to work*. Following that path will help you understand what's going on and is also a valuable diagnostic tool. Check out the stickies IronMick linked.

Safety note - it's better to wire things with the longest path on the + side. In the case of the start button, that would be + -> start button -> start relay -> ground. This way if the wires short out, it pops the breaker instead of trying to turn on the starter! Also, the key switch should always be between your circuit and the battery, otherwise you have no way to de-energize the circuit. Bad day if your start button is always live and you bump it when the bike is parked.

As I mentioned earlier, you also always want to take your + connection from a circuit breaker or fuse. So for the start button you'd connect it to your IGN breaker. If you have a kill switch it gets a little more complicated, but think about what the kill switch does and you'll see where it needs to go. The full path would be + -> MAIN breaker -> key switch -> IGN breaker -> kill switch** -> start switch -> starter relay -> ground.

The indicator lamps get + on one side from the ACC breaker, so the other side needs to go to ground. In the case of the oil lamp that's through the pressure sender in the pump.

Hopefully this all makes sense and didn't get too far into the weeds.

*This is a simplification, but I find it helpful since we're only dealing with DC and the wires are mostly on the positive side of the circuits.

**The kill switch being before the start button is important. Trace the power flow and you'll see that with the key on, one side of the kill switch is connected straight to +. Then if the kill switch is off, neither side of the start button is connected to +. Much less likely for a failure to turn the starter on that way.

If you had the kill switch after the start button, one side of the start button is connected to + and you're relying on the kill switch to keep the other side locked out - greater potential for a bad day. If it helps, think about it like a lamp with the switch in the neutral line instead of the hot. You can turn the lamp off, but if you stick your finger in the socket it'll still zap you.
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  #20  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMek View Post
... think about it like a lamp with the switch in the neutral line instead of the hot. You can turn the lamp off, but if you stick your finger in the socket it'll still zap you.
Neat analogy. I have never had this thought before
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