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Old 30th May 2020
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Default Questions for the dyno gurus

I just had my twincam 103 dyno'd at the local dealer and my numbers seem a little low.
He dyno'd it in 4th gear and I'm pretty sure a direct (cruise) drive 6 speed should be run in 5th if not 6th.
He also said something about a trike drum thier dyno has that yields lower numbers.
Any thoughts on this?

Oh, and he did the final pull with the 10% brake he tunes with.
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Last edited by 60Gunner; 30th May 2020 at 01:12..
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Old 30th May 2020
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He has to be careful to stay within the maximum speed of the tire. It's pretty easy to blow one out, been there, done that.
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He said the speed limiter would cut out. On the newer bikes they disable it but it's too hard to get to on my 2013. He did say it made a big difference too.
I'm just curious how much difference it makes in the numbers not running it in the 1:1 ratio gear. I've heard like 4% less in 4th gear.
I don't want inflated numbers but I don't want deflated either. Makes me question his tune.
He did a std print out too and there was very little difference from sae. Like half a hp.
Another thing that bothers me is he makes no timing changes unless he hears pinging so it's running timing on a calibration for SE 204s. Closest base map on the SEPST for a 2013 1690. I have S&S 570s. My torque curve is nearly identical to the sporty. Just more of it. 95ft.lbs from 2200 on and peaks at 101 from 3800 to 4400. I was expecting closer to 110 on an otherwise stock 103.
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My experience has been that *most* bikes will show a couple hp more in the 1:1 gear. However, when the bike has a heavy rear wheel, like the solid wheels found on some models, that changes. A bike with one of those wheels will show more power in fourth, sometimes even third.

As far as the correction goes, I see an advantage to STD here in Idaho, where we're only about 2000 feet elevation. Again, it'll show a couple hp. But in Colorado, at 5300 feet, SAE would show a couple hp better than STD. Same dyno and in some cases even the same bike. I did a write up on that some years ago, it's around here somewhere. Here you go: http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread...34#post4479334

There are not very many specs as meaningless as peak torque. In the ideal world, the torque curve is flat, which does not lend itself well to a high peak number. To the extent you have peaks and valleys in your torque curve, you may get a higher peak number, but it indicates uneven cylinder fill, which is less desirable. I'd pay a lot more attention to the shape of the torque curve than it's peak value. The pipe is a huge factor in the shape, especially when you run cams with overlap.

Post up your chart, let's see it.
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Hang on...I'll upload it and post.
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Spoked rear wheel btw.
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S&S stealth AC, Rush slipons. 2 1/4" baffles I think, stock head pipes. Still breathing into the intake. Need a different backplate to breath external.
I'm happy with the way it pulls/runs. Just wondering if the tune/numbers could be better or if it's just the gearing the pull was done in.
It's got a pretty flat torque curve really. I'm going to bump the compression up a little with a .030 head gasket and take .015 off the heads to get it up to 10.1:1 which is max for these cams. Should get my cc back up around 200 and obviously up those numbers some.
I'll probably have you do the heads actually. Cnc port them and go 58mm TB.
I talked to Alex this spring and almost went with Hammer 570 cams instead of the S&S 570s.

Last edited by 60Gunner; 30th May 2020 at 15:44..
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