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  #11  
Old 20th May 2019
frogg_nutts frogg_nutts is offline
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"vintage road racer" eh?
What do ya think a Ironhead is?
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  #12  
Old 20th May 2019
Scott Scott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frogg_nutts View Post
"vintage road racer" eh?
What do ya think a Ironhead is?
Not sure what you mean, but I'll give a long winded response anyway.

My plan is to race in the USCRA Heavyweight Supervintage class. Go to the rulebook at www.race-uscra.com for class definitions. The class I'm aiming for is for 1972 and earlier bikes, and post-1972 bikes that haven't changed much since the actual period. All 1000 cc ironheads fit into this class. The rules allow me to do pretty much anything with the engine, as long as it looks relatively stock and doesn't exceed stock displacement. I've been focusing on the chassis since last winter and plan to start on the engine in the fall, money allowing. I've never seen an ironhead road racing. Maybe there's a good reason and I'm dumping a ton of money for no reason. Here's the bike as of late last winter. I've since added 14.5" shocks and moved the pegs up and forward. If you look closely, the angle of the rod to the rear master cylinder is bad. I've since changed that.

Imgur is only letting me post huge photos. If you're curious, here's a link to the older photos:

https://i.imgur.com/DfhsWzQ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/kzn7Zbz.jpg
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  #13  
Old 20th May 2019
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It looks like a fun endeavor, too bad you can’t do a stroker crank and get an unfair advantage over the other racers! - no change in displacement. They won’t notice if you were to add 200 more little old cc’s will they?
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  #14  
Old 20th May 2019
Scott Scott is offline
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I’m not sure the extra inches would help. I think this bike will rule in a straight line; it’s turning I’m wondering about. I’m thinking the heavy flywheels will act like a gyroscope and make it want to keep going straight and not lean. S&S, Truett and Osbourn, and people on this board told me not to lighten the crank. We’ll see.

Nobody will bitch about mild cheating that isn’t obvious until I start winning races!
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  #15  
Old 20th May 2019
Scott Scott is offline
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One last thing - Keenan Tatro was kind enough to give me some of his time. He suggested I cut an inch out of the down tubes to derake it a bit, which makes sense. He also suggested drag pipes 30-34” long. That goes against a lot of what I’ve heard here. I’d appreciate any input people have.
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  #16  
Old 20th May 2019
needspeed needspeed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott View Post
.... S&S, Truett and Osbourn, and people on this board told me not to lighten the crank. We’ll see....
I'm not questioning their advice and for my own edification, did S+S and Truett and Osborn give a reason for not lightening the flywheels?
A performance concern, durability or just not worth the effort?

Another comment on crankshaft weight. I know you were considering S+S connecting rods. Those are going to add weight to the crank and some of it reciprocating. For your basically stock engine I think a good set of stock rods with proper bearing clearance would be fine. But I've never done what you're trying to do and others may disagree.
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  #17  
Old 20th May 2019
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coming from a guy with 36'' XLR pipes I think you would be better off with a 2 into 1 pipe for more low rpm torque pulling out of the tight turns through the infield on a road race track.
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  #18  
Old 21st May 2019
Scott Scott is offline
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Needspeed - I spoke with the tech support dept. at S&S asking about purchasing a completely assembled bottom end with their wheels and rods. The guy told me simply that they don't lighten wheels - end of story. I didn't ask further because he seemed eager to end the call. Truett and Osborne said that lightened wheels are too difficult to balance. Tatro simply said something along the lines of "lightened flywheels suck, but I'll do what you want." People on this board said I'd lose a lot of low and midrange power. I didn't realize S&S rods are heavier than stock. Ferrous Head said that he's had stock wheels crack. I'd love to save a bunch of money and just use the stock bottom end, but the potential price if they fail would be high.

Brucstoudt - You're confirming what I thought. I'm guessing that drags would be best flat tracking where RPMs stay high and fairly consistent. I've seen some beautiful homemade 2-into-1 exhausts on this forum. I hope I can do something 1/2 as nice. I plan to get a bunch on bends, tack them together with my elderly Harbor Freight MIG, and bring the whole thing to my friend who welds professionally.

Here's what may be a dumb question, but something I've wondered about for a while. Can you take a complete exhaust for an Evo Sportster, cut off the Evo-specific part where the pipes meet the heads, and weld on the appropriate ironhead sections (cut from an old set of drags)? Well, I know you can, but would it work?
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