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  #11  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Simple to check and rule out the clutch. Just loosen the cable completely, get in the derby cover and do the adjustment making sure you do have 1/4 turn of free play in that adjustment. Then adjust the cable back to where there is still a tad of play at the lever.

It is possible that it is slipping a bit under load, and once the speed catches up with RPM then the slip will usually stop.
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  #12  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by wedge View Post
Simple to check and rule out the clutch. Just loosen the cable completely, get in the derby cover and do the adjustment making sure you do have 1/4 turn of free play in that adjustment. Then adjust the cable back to where there is still a tad of play at the lever.

It is possible that it is slipping a bit under load, and once the speed catches up with RPM then the slip will usually stop.
I hope that’s all it is.

Just by chance I reset the clutch and adjusted the primary chain end of last weekend. Weathers been poor so I haven’t gotten to drive it much since. I have rode it a few miles without a slip but normally it takes a little long and I have to get on it a little.

I’ve always done the 1/4 turn back but I’ve read some people do a half so you know why that is? I wasn’t sure if it’s just rumor or if different Medea require further back off after you feel the tension.
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  #13  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
Tomcatt Tomcatt is offline
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Originally Posted by Jfart View Post
Bike hasn’t leaked since the build. I noticed today that they rear base pushrod cover has a slight leak is is misting oil. I am also getting some oil out of the breather bolts but the bike has always done that. Some times more than others. That makes me question wet sumping because the sudden loss of power when the bikes acts up. When that loss of power happens the motor requires more throttle, more throttle equals higher RPM’s which creates a cycle and heat.
The wet sumping fix is installing the '07 up oil pump.
Were the cams out during your build? It's all too easy to have the cam timing one tooth off.
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  #14  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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The wet sumping fix is installing the '07 up oil pump.
Were the cams out during your build? It's all too easy to have the cam timing one tooth off.
Cams were out. I replaced the stock D’s with Andrew’s N4’s. Wouldn’t it run like hell if the tooth was off? Is there anyway to tell without opening the cam case? I’d think I can measure the pushrods height at a specific part of the cycle to find out, correct?

Also, I installed the 07 and up oil pump during the build. Hammer gave me some grest advice that I would not have done if it wen’t for them being forward. They not only explained what I would most likely need for the build but went into detail of what components are known to fail and why. The two issues I remember off the top of my head were obviously the clutch, the oil pump and the timing cup.

Last edited by Jfart; 1 Week Ago at 05:13.. Reason: typo
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  #15  
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Yeh once the clutch starts slipping more throttle=more slip

That's been my experience
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  #16  
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Originally Posted by Jfart View Post
I hope that’s all it is.

Just by chance I reset the clutch and adjusted the primary chain end of last weekend. Weathers been poor so I haven’t gotten to drive it much since. I have rode it a few miles without a slip but normally it takes a little long and I have to get on it a little.

I’ve always done the 1/4 turn back but I’ve read some people do a half so you know why that is? I wasn’t sure if it’s just rumor or if different Medea require further back off after you feel the tension.

OK, so both the adjusting screw in the primary and the cable will adjust the slack out. If you use 1/4 turn (factory) then that sets the arc of the ramp as the cable pulls on it. Ultimately it's to your advantage for that arc to travel equally on both sides of where the arm on the ramp creates a tangent line parallel with the cable. If you adjust it to 1/2 turn that means that as the cable is adjusted you can still pull out the extra slop but the point where the cable pull on the ramp starts pulling the plates apart is further to your left and closer to that tangent point so at the far end as you pull the lever to the grip the cable could get past it's most useful part of the arc.

I personally always adjust it to 1/4", and that doesn't always align with the flats on the lock hex, so if I have to turn it to get it aligned I prefer to go further than 1/4 turn rather than less. 1/2 turn I would consider excessive because of the arc as I just mentioned, but sometimes it ends up at or near 3/8 turn. This is a slight advantage to you in the future because as plates wear, that gap you leave after adjusting the cable will disappear and the plates will slip (maybe like your case, maybe not). Having left extra (3/8") of gap initially with the screw means you took more out with the cable to get the right amount of free play, and now that you need to readjust, you have more initial free play at the bottom to allow more times that the cable will be able to get the free play back, saving you extra trips inside to adjust the initial gap with the screw.

If you watch the action you will see that as you leave more free play with the screw, the ramp arm rotates further to the left (clockwise) when the lever is pulled to the grip. When you have definitely gone too far is when that arc becomes the cable pulling straight against the straight arm (no travel left) If you go that far then the cable will be pulling straight on the lever that is pointing straight at the cable, so it can't pull further and the plates may not even be disengaged at that point. So midway in the travel should end up near to where the cable is parallel with the tangent so it swings equally on both sides of that point in operation.

Watch it move as you try different settings to get a feel for this and you will see what I mean. It helps to have a good mental picture of this for when you end up troubleshooting.

Last edited by wedge; 3 Weeks Ago at 01:26..
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  #17  
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Originally Posted by wedge View Post
OK, so both the adjusting screw in the primary and the cable will adjust the slack out. If you use 1/4 turn (factory) then that sets the arc of the ramp as the cable pulls on it. Ultimately it's to your advantage for that arc to travel equally on both sides of where the arm on the ramp creates a tangent line parallel with the cable. If you adjust it to 1/2 turn that means that as the cable is adjusted you can still pull out the extra slop but the point where the cable pull on the ramp starts pulling the plates apart is further to your left and closer to that tangent point so at the far end as you pull the lever to the grip the cable could get past it's most useful part of the arc.

I personally always adjust it to 1/4", and that doesn't always align with the flats on the lock hex, so if I have to turn it to get it aligned I prefer to go further than 1/4 turn rather than less. 1/2 turn I would consider excessive because of the arc as I just mentioned, but sometimes it ends up at or near 3/8 turn. This is a slight advantage to you in the future because as plates wear, that gap you leave after adjusting the cable will disappear and the plates will slip (maybe like your case, maybe not). Having left extra (3/8") of gap initially with the screw means you took more out with the cable to get the right amount of free play, and now that you need to readjust, you have more initial free play at the bottom to allow more times that the cable will be able to get the free play back, saving you extra trips inside to adjust the initial gap with the screw.

If you watch the action you will see that as you leave more free play with the screw, the ramp arm rotates further to the left (clockwise) when the lever is pulled to the grip. When you have definitely gone too far is when that arc becomes the cable pulling straight against the straight arm (no travel left) If you go that far then the cable will be pulling straight on the lever that is pointing straight at the cable, so it can't pull further and the plates may not even be disengaged at that point. So midway in the travel should end up near to where the cable is parallel with the tangent so it swings equally on both sides of that point in operation.

Watch it move as you try different settings to get a feel for this and you will see what I mean. It helps to have a good mental picture of this for when you end up troubleshooting.
Well said, that’s the best way I’ve ever read or heard it explained and makes to what I experience.

1/4 turn and 1/4 turn is just reference. Seeing the action is where it’s at. You’re 100% accurate when you say a 1/4 turn the nut doesn’t line up. Your reference of 3/8th is exactly what ended up being perfect for me.
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As the plates wear you will find that the adjustment that is now liking to be at 3/8 turn will change. It's totally determined by how thick the plate stack is because that determines the point where the adjusting screw stops, and the 1/4 turn or whatever the back off comes out to be starts from there. You don't have much choice because at the end of the day the locking hex has to fit into place. Some times it falls right in, other times you have to choose more or less than 1/4 turn to make it work, and that's when I go for slightly more if that works out.

I like to explain everything like that because if you have a good mental picture of the action then the adjustment is no longer just numbers. I have seen more than one manual in my life that gives you the wrong direction to turn an adjuster and if you don't see what it's trying to accomplish, then good luck continuing to read the manual and turning it opposite of what works. CR 250 Honda 1988 was a great example. The exhaust port has a mechanical valve between the port and the pipe, and the book tells you to adjust it one way, and that way locks the valve wide open so it can't work. If you adjust it in the other direction, it adjusts the valve to the point where it is just closed, and then the action as you open the throttle opens the port up (the valve is two sliding pieces that come in from the sides and when closed block off the (top?) of the port so the engine runs better at lower RPM, then as you accelerate it opens up and the bike is using the full exhaust port).
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  #19  
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Yeh once the clutch starts slipping more throttle=more slip

That's been my experience
That's what I would expected too. This "slipping" feeling catches very soon when it happens, maybe 1 second? So fast I question if its a misfire or a fuel issue and not a slip, but just feels that way to me.

In an attempt to find figure out this problem and others I made an adjustment to the VOES switch. Changed the VOES from grounding at 5 units to 7-8 units. Since this adjustment (I also re adjusted the drive chain at the same time) it doesn't seem to happen as often, It hadn't slipped for 5 rides but then last Sunday it did it again. With in 5 minutes of it acting up the bike suddenly lost 50% of its power again. I could still hear both cylinders firing as usual though.

Could the VOES trigger, grounding the circuit and cause the motor to hesitate for a second?

I've spent so much time reading this forum trying to find someone with a similar issue and that has got me starting to think the worst possible scenario like is it possible for the crank to slip and that's what I'm feeling?
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I was originally thinking this was two different problems but maybe they are connected.

Often after the hesitation or slipping sensation I will notice that the bike starts running poorly. I will suddenly lose 50% of my power. I can hear all cylinders firing but there is little top end power. I'm beginning to question a few different things?

A) oil issue. the sudden loss of power makes me wonder if it's wet sumping. I'm not running in really high RPM's tough. Could a oil line, pump, filter, or oil vent line be clogging and causing the motor to wet sump? If it's a breathing issue or oil issue could this explain why the VOES changing made the problem not happen as often (could be a coincidence).


B) Is it possible for me to be feeling the crank slipping?

C) I had installed the bronze oil gear with the build, oil pump, and cams. I followed the torque specs and used locktite with the gear locking tool that hammer sells so it didn't mess up the crank.

Any thoughts? I'm open to suggestions? I just don't know where to start at this point. I'd much rather find and fix this issue before some type of catastrophic failure. If I have to take it all apart I will but what should I check before breaking it down if necessary?

would a scavenging oil change remove oil from the sump and help clear out oil passages or at least tell me that oil is flowing normally when the motors turning over? http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:refil01a#refoiling_lubrication_-_sub-01a
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