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  #11  
Old 7th December 2018
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FYI, not knowing the manufacturer of your needle but observing it shows the clip down from the top with the addition of two washers underneath it. This lifts the needle in relationship to its position in the throttle bore, makes a very early transition down to the taper on the needle and probably dumps in excessive fuel which may give you some of the symptoms you have been experiencing. If your bike is close to stock, maybe a low restriction air cleaner and a bit more open exhaust, the simple cure for the lean factory condition(EPA related), was using a needle from an 88-89 Sporty with the idle mixture screw turned out between 1 1/2- 2 1/2 turns. This fattened up the bottom giving a bit stronger pull at low throttle, the taper end of the needle gave plenty of fuel for mid and high throttle operation. That earlier needle has been discontinued from H.D. But CVP offers a similar replacement. I thought it was a N65c but may be wrong, won’t be the first time. Hope this helps.
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  #12  
Old 7th December 2018
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sportsterdoc sportsterdoc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterpaul View Post
...CVP offers a similar replacement. I thought it was a N65c but may be wrong, won’t be the first time. Hope this helps.
It is the N65C (27094-88)
https://cv-performance.com/cvp-n65-needle
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  #13  
Old 7th December 2018
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sportsterdoc sportsterdoc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lespaul6 View Post
I found the problem, I think... a dynojet kit was installed, the vacuum slide was drilled to 1/8"...
15 or so years ago many recommended drilling the slide vacuum port to 1/8".
As much good info is on Nightrider.com, they still promote the 1/8" hole.

CV Performance cautions against drilling over 7/64"
https://cv-performance.com/harley-cv...-tuning-issues

The original thought was to induce quicker slide response, but that can create problems.

I do not know as much about carbs as some others on this forum (I mostly target electrical questions), but I would not molest a stock slide, nor modify the slide spring.

I have preferred to run a bit richer than many, in the interest of reducing engine temperature, particularly for desert operation and pulling long grades, especially at sustained WOT.

My direct experience is on California Sportsters, which are VERY lean from the factory. I have long suspected that there may be differences in the Keihin CV40 in addition to basic jetting, so my experience may not transfer outside of California.

My general starting point was a 45 pilot, mixture 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 turns out from gentle seat and the N65C (or =) needle. Although I increased the main jet on both my 2003 XLH883 and 2002 1200 Sport, that only made a difference for sustained WOT runs up long grades and probably not needed by most riders.

BTW the mixture range (2 1/2 to 2 3/4 turns out from gentle seat) has worked for me an many carbs on many vehicles other than H-D.

The "new vacuum slide, spring from CV Performance, emulsion tube, 170 main, and n65 needle" should do well.
I did not look on Sportsterpedia for the stock main jet on your bike, but if it runs hot in the summer at higher speeds you may want to go 0.05 to 0.1 mm larger on the main.
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  #14  
Old 7th December 2018
John Harper John Harper is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
Got to leave in a few minutes to take eldest granddaughter for archery practice, but will check back.
Show this to your grandaughter, women archers ROCK!!! This is my friend Debbie with her monster elk, taken in Northern Arizona in October with a bow!



That might inspire her archery practice.

John
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  #15  
Old 7th December 2018
lespaul6 lespaul6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterpaul View Post
FYI, not knowing the manufacturer of your needle but observing it shows the clip down from the top with the addition of two washers underneath it. This lifts the needle in relationship to its position in the throttle bore, makes a very early transition down to the taper on the needle and probably dumps in excessive fuel which may give you some of the symptoms you have been experiencing. If your bike is close to stock, maybe a low restriction air cleaner and a bit more open exhaust, the simple cure for the lean factory condition(EPA related), was using a needle from an 88-89 Sporty with the idle mixture screw turned out between 1 1/2- 2 1/2 turns. This fattened up the bottom giving a bit stronger pull at low throttle, the taper end of the needle gave plenty of fuel for mid and high throttle operation. That earlier needle has been discontinued from H.D. But CVP offers a similar replacement. I thought it was a N65c but may be wrong, won’t be the first time. Hope this helps.
Yes.. this makes total sense.. I bought the needle you're referring to.
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  #16  
Old 7th December 2018
lespaul6 lespaul6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
15 or so years ago many recommended drilling the slide vacuum port to 1/8".
As much good info is on Nightrider.com, they still promote the 1/8" hole.

CV Performance cautions against drilling over 7/64"
https://cv-performance.com/harley-cv...-tuning-issues

The original thought was to induce quicker slide response, but that can create problems.

I do not know as much about carbs as some others on this forum (I mostly target electrical questions), but I would not molest a stock slide, nor modify the slide spring.

I have preferred to run a bit richer than many, in the interest of reducing engine temperature, particularly for desert operation and pulling long grades, especially at sustained WOT.

My direct experience is on California Sportsters, which are VERY lean from the factory. I have long suspected that there may be differences in the Keihin CV40 in addition to basic jetting, so my experience may not transfer outside of California.

My general starting point was a 45 pilot, mixture 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 turns out from gentle seat and the N65C (or =) needle. Although I increased the main jet on both my 2003 XLH883 and 2002 1200 Sport, that only made a difference for sustained WOT runs up long grades and probably not needed by most riders.

BTW the mixture range (2 1/2 to 2 3/4 turns out from gentle seat) has worked for me an many carbs on many vehicles other than H-D.

The "new vacuum slide, spring from CV Performance, emulsion tube, 170 main, and n65 needle" should do well.
I did not look on Sportsterpedia for the stock main jet on your bike, but if it runs hot in the summer at higher speeds you may want to go 0.05 to 0.1 mm larger on the main.
Thanks again for the assist.. I will report back with findings!
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  #17  
Old 7th December 2018
lespaul6 lespaul6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Harper View Post
Show this to your grandaughter, women archers ROCK!!! This is my friend Debbie with her monster elk, taken in Northern Arizona in October with a bow!



That might inspire her archery practice.

John
Agreed... some great women snipers out there
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  #18  
Old 7th December 2018
lespaul6 lespaul6 is offline
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Regarding the float setting, does anyone have a diy trick for measuring the 15 degree angle? some type of clever device or trick when you do not have a proper calculation device?
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  #19  
Old 7th December 2018
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sportsterdoc sportsterdoc is offline
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Float setting
https://cv-performance.com/harley_float_setting
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  #20  
Old 7th December 2018
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sportsterdoc sportsterdoc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Harper View Post
Show this to your granddaughter, women archers ROCK!!! This is my friend Debbie with her monster elk, taken in Northern Arizona in October with a bow! That might inspire her archery practice.
Not if she had to field dress it!

Was that near Flagstaff?
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