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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #101  
Old 6th December 2018
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Um.... that’s what this whole thread is about the feel between 1st and 2nd feeling like garbage. I guess if you didn’t have the problem then cool for you but eht was the problem with everyone else in this thread that had the same issue. Obviously something common is happening.
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  #102  
Old 6th December 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewWphoto View Post
So I know I’m reviving a super old thread here, sorry everyone, but I bought a 2004 sportster 883 this summer and have the same problem. The spring plate in the clutch did go out, no surprise there, and I replaced it with the extra plate Kevlar kit from Barnett. I’ve tried everything, adjusting the clutch 1/8 turn from seated, almost 1 full turn from seated, I’ve run Mobil 1 atf, 20w-50 engine oil, Spectro primary oil. I’ve adjusted the primary chain to the loose end of spec, to the tighter end of spec but am still dealing with this issue of shifting into second being a pain.

If I shift into 2nd from first early, at lower rpms, it’s really smooth but if I even moderately rev up to even a normal rpm to shift it gives me trouble. If I hold the clutch in for an extra second before shifting it sometimes helps but not every time.

I guess I’m just wondering, has there been a fix for this since 2010 or is it just known that 2004 and 2005 sportster shifting sucks?
Some of us have found the cure to be lightly fanning the clutch lever, put a good amount of preload on the shift lever and shift between 6,000-7,000 r.p.m. Bike seems to enjoy it almost as much as the rider. A little difficult in town but comes into its own on the open road, just saying.
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  #103  
Old 6th December 2018
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It should be noted that there is no difference between shifting on '04 and '05 Sportsters and any other year of rubbermount. The only difference between the trannies is straight cut gears on the '04 and '05, and helical cut gears on the later bikes (and the ratios are slightly different), but since the gears are in constant mesh, this makes no difference to shifting.

Many people report hitting neutral instead of 2nd occasionally when shifting from 1st to 2nd; I've done this myself, but it doesn't happen provided I shift positively, only if I'm not really paying attention and shift tentatively. A few report other 'problems', but not enough to say there's a common problem or fault.
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  #104  
Old 6th December 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterpaul View Post
Some of us have found the cure to be lightly fanning the clutch lever, put a good amount of preload on the shift lever and shift between 6,000-7,000 r.p.m. Bike seems to enjoy it almost as much as the rider. A little difficult in town but comes into its own on the open road, just saying.
I’m noticing the opposite that the lower RPM I shift at makes it shift smoother. If I rev it out and try to shift at a higher RPM it feels like for lack of better terms grinds or snags really hard even if it goes into gear it’s far from smooth.
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  #105  
Old 7th December 2018
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Glancing through this thread, the possible solution seems to be gear to shift fork spacing.
I have not done much trans work, but I have seen some seriously bent shift forks on motocross bikes.

How many miles on the bike?
How fresh is the engine/trans oil?
Any particles in it?

Define "giving me trouble":
Does it fail to shift at all or does it hit neutral?
Or does it shift, but with more pressure than expected?
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  #106  
Old 7th December 2018
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Jerry, the gist of the controversy earlier in this post was a claim that a husband and wife, each with their own Sporty, were able to take the hubbys 2005 model, a rubbermount, apart and by respacing the side gap on first gear they eliminated the problem they were experiencing between 1st and 2nd gear. This claim was done in 2 hours open to closed. We are really late to the game but in reading back through this they were never able answer how they managed it. I would really like to know as my 2006”R”, has been waiting patiently for me to open it up, the cases, and address issues that formed on a run to South Carolina a few years back. FYI this same bike was one that I had split the cases three times in less than a couple months, don’t ask, and with those expereriences l’d be lucky to get the top end off with stripping all the connecting paraphernalia undone. Let alone pulling the lower and splitting the case?
The link they referenced mentioned the spacing issue and noted that that article was regarding the 5 speed tranny introduced in 1991, a trap door model. Having recently rebuilt the tranny on my 2000”C” with its trapdoor, I could get it apart and out in 2 hours, but not completely torn down, refurbished and reassembled in much less than 4 hours. But I’m old, crippled and slow. Just saying.
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  #107  
Old 7th December 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterpaul View Post
Having recently rebuilt the tranny on my 2000”C” with its trapdoor, I could get it apart and out in 2 hours, but not completely torn down, refurbished and reassembled in much less than 4 hours. But I’m old, crippled and slow. Just saying.
Hey, you are (slightly) younger than me!

I picked up on the time claims, but did not dwell on that argument.

It does seem reasonable that a missed 1-2 shift to neutral could be due to shift fork travel or lack thereof. So, although the time frame claim was skeptical, the actual fix, for them, may have been true.

Meanwhile, more from drewwphoto on his exact issues may be helpful. He did post more details in post 104, but I'm looking for a complete summary.
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  #108  
Old 7th December 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterpaul View Post
I would really like to know as my 2006”R”, has been waiting patiently for me to open it up, the cases, and address issues that formed on a run to South Carolina a few years back. FYI this same bike was one that I had split the cases three times in less than a couple months, don’t ask, and with those experiences l’d be lucky to get the top end off with stripping all the connecting paraphernalia undone. Let alone pulling the lower and splitting the case?
So when are we (the collective forum) getting into that gearbox? You better figure out photo posting before then!

If the shift fork is bent or simply not traveling quite far enough, it should be discernible.

Also, there is a possibility of an issue with the shift pawl or the shift drum pins being worn or damaged.
decman (Declan from Sportster.org) posted a good photo here, 5 1/2 years ago:

http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1645192
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  #109  
Old 8th December 2018
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This time around I’ll be replacing the output shaft bearing for starters, I’m not quite sure but it might be a repair done from the secondary drive side, I’m remembering something about a large snapping over there behind the front sprocket. But for me wanting to be sure, I will pull and split the cases again as a fluid leak from the primary left me with an extremely noisy tranny. To avoid issues further down the road I will go through it entirely and make anything suspect good again. The plastic caged bearings inside could have taken the biggest hit? It was upon the second splitting of the cases that I discovered and posted the special H.D. tool need to hold back the spring loaded detent lever for reassembling. That special tool by the way can be purchased at almost any hardware store, a 9/16-18x 2 1/2” hexhead bolt, cost less than 2 dollars, don’t attempt to try doing it by inserting a screwdriver into the neutral switch hole as that detent lever bends very easily and you’ll end up with many false neutrals as you shift going down the road. Don’t ask how I know this, trust me.
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  #110  
Old 9th December 2018
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In doing research on the transmission, it seems the 04-05 trans used

a) the same straight cut gears as pre-04
b) a new style shifter assembly (specific to the 04-05 models)

Perhaps the new shifter style was not as efficient at moving the dogged gears as was the case with the pre-04 shifter pawl...

The change in the trans gear style in 2006 to use dog rings, not part of the gears themselves, which are less mass to move, may have allowed the new shifter assembly to perform more efficiently and therefore have less issues with shifting...

Then again, in 2006, the shifter shaft itself was increased in diameter that may have affected the quality of movement transmitted from the foot lever to the shifter drum...

I'm certain that how you shift (aggressive, mild, casual) on the 04-05 and the 06+ models will definitely affect the functionality (as it always has)...

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