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  #61  
Old 24th November 2018
rubine rubine is offline
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Yup Shorai gets the thumbs up from me too
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  #62  
Old 25th November 2018
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After ten years the OEM gave it up. We now use it as a test battery in the shop.
I checked into all kinds of batteries.
I decided on a Scorpion brand. It has 50 more CCA than the OEM
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  #63  
Old 25th November 2018
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42F this morning. Disconnected the Tender. Rolled it outside. 2 bare cranks. And Dead. Roll it back into the garage. Hook up the Tender. Took my Tucson into work. Come home, Schumacher SP6, "Charge Aborted, Bad Battery". Reinstalled the factory battery. Cleared the BCM Low Voltage code. Reset the Tender to L/A mode. Reset the clock. J&P issued me a RMA. And a return label.
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  #64  
Old 25th November 2018
jokers10 jokers10 is offline
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Would the recommended Shorai battery give you enough space to relocate the ECM for the 07-09 sportsters into the battery box?
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  #65  
Old 26th November 2018
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Mine is a 18
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  #66  
Old 5th December 2018
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The replacement arrived today. Showing 14.25V. The 1st only showed 13.3. Which I thought was a little low.
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  #67  
Old 7th December 2018
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Frankly all vehicles should go to 24 or 48 volt systems...the amps would dictate that. It's not rocket science.
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  #68  
Old 7th December 2018
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Imagine if you will...
A Sportster that starts and runs off a 24 volt system....it could be like finding fire on the Serengeti plains.
Lucas excepting
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  #69  
Old 7th December 2018
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The very early vehicles of yesteryear used a 6V system.
The problem with upping the volts is that the dielectrics have to be stronger. Components such as capacitors become larger for the same capacitance at higher voltage, for example. Most automotive relays are rated at 30VDC, so at "12V" this gives you a huge safety margin considering the current those things have to control. So whilst you reduce the amps and reduce power losses in your wiring as a result, you now place your components under more electrical stress. Damned if you do and damned if you don't. Nissan hybrids use 650V.

I want to experiment with supercapacitors, but I have to find something suitable for this kind of application, to buffer a large amount of power to make the starter go all cranky. Once the starter has done the job, absolutely nothing hogs up that much current. In theory this means I can use a tiny 12V battery with lower CCA to charge up the supercapacitor, then this can crank the engine, after a small delay.
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  #70  
Old 7th December 2018
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I've been eyeing the Antigravity "restart" batteries. Some cool technology that doenst allow the battery to get completely drained (in case you leave a light on) and a push button to "jump start" the battery if it drops down in voltage. Anyone run these?
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