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Sportster Motorcycle Engine Conversions Advice, questions, and tips for 1200, 1250, 1340, 1450 etc... for Sportster and Buell motorcycle engine conversions

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  #1  
Old 20th October 2020
John Harper's Avatar
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Default Halloween 1250 Conversion

Getting ready for my 1250 upgrade:


Here she sits today:

I plan to do the rear cylinder, then move to the front and also be able to set timing with new module. Hopefully that makes sense. If anyone thinks differently, please chime in.

Piston top for anyone interested:

SE aircleaner with no external venting. 20,000 miles.

Found a lift on CL for $50, and only 2 miles from my house!

I originally rolled the bike into position for rear cylinder removal, but I realized I needed a lift to make the job easier and practical. My buddy has one I could borrow, but since I do a lot of work on another friend's expanding dual sport collection, this will beat hefting an XR650, WR426, or DRZ400S onto a milkcrate from now on. Win win!

Yah! UPS just dropped off the Hammer Performance order!

I had the pistons and piston rings installed and gapped, well worth the money. Now, if we don't screw up the piston install, once the cylinders are on I can do it myself from there except for help with timing. $823.26 for all.

Supplies and custom tools:

Assembly lube: $12.48, custom built wrist pin puller: $2.38, custom wrist pin clip installer: Free
Here's some useless Harley trivia: The diameter of the wrist pin is .729, same as the nominal bore of a 12 gauge shotgun!

A few more loose ends to tie up still. Gonna get some new head bolts and timing cover rivets from the local dealer, and ditching the Dynojet carb kit for CV Performance (they have to ship it all to my sister in MO, and then she'll send it to me in CA) emulsion tube, jets and Velocity Needle. A trip to Ace Hardware for just a few new external bolts as well. We plan to start on her October 31st if I get all of it together, which seems likely at this point.

John
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  #2  
Old 20th October 2020
XL1275 XL1275 is offline
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Did you get the pistons pre-installed into the jugs? I thought it was well worth the price to get the rings gapped from Hammer.
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Old 21st October 2020
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I'm gonna try to add stuff to original post as long as "edit" is available. Try to keep it simple for everyone. Maybe break it up when we go at it on the 31st.

John
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Old 21st October 2020
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Great write up and pictures John. Very interesting for me to follow since we have almost the same model year bike. I subscribed to your thread.
BTW. I have almost the same lift and had to adapt it a little with some wood. The frame has those U-type things welded between the frame tubes and the jiffy stop got in the way.
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Old 21st October 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NLXL View Post
BTW. I have almost the same lift and had to adapt it a little with some wood. The frame has those U-type things welded between the frame tubes and the jiffy stop got in the way.
This is the kind of shit I want to know beforehand! Thank you! I'm posting this up for all us "shade tree" mechanics. Another reason I gave myself plenty of time before I ask my BMW guru to help me with the piston/cylinder swap.

It looks like I can put one pad just behind the jiffy stop if I remove the rubber. Did you try that? Just need that rear wheel where I can turn it.

Can you post a picture of your wood adapters? I can make those for sure as I have plenty of 2x8s I use on milkcrates for my friend's dual sports. I also have full access to the wood and auto shops at my high school.

John
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Old 21st October 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Harper View Post

Can you post a picture of your wood adapters?
Here you go...

I removed the rubber parts from the lift and used the holes in it to attach the plank. Before I did that I used some double sided tape for mockup to see if it worked.

The wood I used I found in my basement, it's hardwood where my stairs are made from. I left the two long parts connected in the middle for sturdyness, but I don't think it's neccesary. I basically, and roughly, just cut out the part that was in the way. Keep in mind that the front slip on is lower than the frame is. Therefore you cannot use the whole frame of the lift. But this way the bike's weight almost still in the middle of the lift looking from the front, so the lift and bike on it cannot tip over to left or right. The bike is standing very stable on the lift, but for extra safety and doing work on the bike you should use straps.

The thickness of the plank must be a little thicker than the jiffy stop length or it will hit the iron part of the lift and can possibly break of if the weight of the bike is leaning on it.

I could weld it but after welding I cannot use it for any other purpose than my own bike. If I remove 4 screw and put the rubber back on, I can use it for my the bikes of my sons or any other bike.

The pics are original sized, so I made some thumbnails. As you can see it's in cm's...


Last edited by NLXL; 21st October 2020 at 15:14..
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Old 21st October 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NLXL View Post
Here you go...

I removed the rubber parts from the lift and used the holes in it to attach the plank. Before I did that I used some double sided tape for mockup to see if it worked.

The wood I used I found in my basement, it's hardwood where my stairs are made from. I left the two long parts connected in the middle for sturdyness, but I don't think it's neccesary. I basically, and roughly, just cut out the part that was in the way. Keep in mind that the front slip on is lower than the frame is. Therefore you cannot use the whole frame of the lift. But this way the bike's weight almost still in the middle of the lift looking from the front, so the lift and bike on it cannot tip over to left or right. The bike is standing very stable on the lift, but for extra safety and doing work on the bike you should use straps.

The thickness of the plank must be a little thicker than the jiffy stop length or it will hit the iron part of the lift and can possibly break of if the weight of the bike is leaning on it.

I could weld it but after welding I cannot use it for any other purpose than my own bike. If I remove 4 screw and put the rubber back on, I can use it for my the bikes of my sons or any other bike.

The pics are original sized, so I made some thumbnails. As you can see it's in cm's...

Thank you!
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Old 21st October 2020
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I bought a jack, but found it more comfortable working on it without suspending it. Putting in 4th gear and trying to roll the crank over from the rear wheel was sort of spooky with the balance on the lift plus you couldn't actually see it from the back.

The jack isn't a waste as it will be good for lifting the mower to change the blades.
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Old 21st October 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XL1275 View Post
I bought a jack, but found it more comfortable working on it without suspending it. Putting in 4th gear and trying to roll the crank over from the rear wheel was sort of spooky with the balance on the lift plus you couldn't actually see it from the back.
Agreed, that's why I rolled it to do the back cylinder first. But, since I need some assistance for the rest, just lifting it a bit with an extra hand should be fine. Plus, my buddy who is helping is an expert for sure. I can drop it back down to put the pipes back at the end.

I can definitely use the jack for other bikes I work on.

John
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Old 21st October 2020
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