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  #1  
Old 27th July 2021
Jfart Jfart is offline
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Default White smoke out of tail pipe after engine build?

2002 1200 recently converted to 1275 flat top piston (hammer performance)
Andrew’s N4 cams
Dyna 2000i ignition module: set at 28*
Timing cup
Billet pushrod bases
Cometic gaskets
Cometic valve seals
Brass pinion gear
2007 bigger Oil pump
Performance energy 1 extra clutch kit
CV40 45 and 180 jets/ idle mixture screw 3 turns out
10R12X Plugs
Bassani pro street exhaust
Hammer performance impact air filter

Built bike 450 miles ago. Plan to change oil at 500 miles. Immediately after build was having what I thought to be timing issues but after changing vacuum hoses, fuel hoses, exhaust gaskets, and reinstalling the intake manifold majority of my issues went away (high revs, back firing on deceleration, running hot, pinging, white smoke from end of exhaust tail pipes, sudden surge).

Overall the bike presents to run better now. I still get backfiring on deceleration but not consistently. When bike is started and at idle there is no smoke. Once bike gets warm (20 min after riding) puffs of white smoke from end of tail pipe.

Occasionally when accelerating (maybe 50%) the bike does something strange and I haven’t figured out what it is. At first it felt like my rear tire broke free for 1 second and then caught traction. Maybe it’s a carb fart but right after this (let’s call it a surge?) I feel a sudden torque sensation as if I let go of the clutch suddenly. This sensation is more intimidating while leaning in a turn. Seems to only happen or be noticeable when I’m in acceleration 1/4 throttle to 1/2 throttle.

Checked for an exhaust leak yesterday and they’re not leaking. I recently ran a compression test 170psi both cylinders. Plugs look ok, if anything they look lean. I think there was an exhaust leak and a intake leak after the build that darkened half of the rear plug. No oil on plugs.

Before the build the bike was oil fouling plugs pretty quickly. Could this white smoke be burning crap out of the old heads and exhaust?

Plan to check for a intake manifold leak again tonight or tomorrow when I have time. Would small leak where manifold meets head cause the the exhaust smoke and ¬ďsurging¬Ē? If so, why only smoke when the bike is warmed up?

I appreciate any leads or information.
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  #2  
Old 27th July 2021
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blue = oil
black = too rich
white = incomplete combustion
kiss it
ign, leads, plugs
timing
cam phasing.

Last edited by bustert; 28th July 2021 at 00:30..
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  #3  
Old 27th July 2021
Jfart Jfart is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
blue = oil
black = too rich
white = incomplete combustion
kiss it
ing, leads, plugs
timing
cam phasing.
You’ve got my interest. Any recommendations on what or how to trouble shoot?

I¬íve retarded the time to 27* thinking it was a Timing issue before changing the vacuum lines, exhaust gaskets, and resetting the intake manifold. After changing those it ran a little better but not perfect, so I brought the timing back to where hammer performance recommended as a starting point. Once I brought the timing back to 28* and fixed the leaks it¬ís ran much more consistent and a lot less ¬ďsurging¬Ē. Is still happening.

I’m still getting the deceleration backfiring a little and the occasional surge. If the intake manifold didn’t have a perfect seal on the head, could it cause these issues?

I also ordered 185 and 190 jet to see if that was the issue. For some reason it only acts up after riding for 20 min or so.
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Old 27th July 2021
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Drive belt loose? If slipping a tooth it would give you that grabby feel.
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Old 27th July 2021
Jfart Jfart is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChinCactus View Post
Drive belt loose? If slipping a tooth it would give you that grabby feel.
That was my first thought too. The belt has around than 5k on it. I tested the tension and it was within normal limits. Havenít checked every tooth individually but I might have too. Belt teeth I looked at donít look worn though.

Iím kinda wondering if it isnít a destination issue the more I think about it. I was told the compression ratio was 9.6:1 and I always use premium 91 octane. Would this would this make me have to retard the timing further than 28* from the standard 30* dyna 2000i ignition module has?

I always thought the n4 cams were pretty much the same as the 04-05 evoís?
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Old 27th July 2021
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is this only happening in first gear? could be trans problem.
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Old 27th July 2021
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Originally Posted by wtwolf View Post
is this only happening in first gear? could be trans problem.
Normally 2nd or 3rd gear. When it happens. Iím still breaking in the top end so I canít get on it too much.
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Old 28th July 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jfart View Post
I recently ran a compression test 170psi both cylinders. Plugs look ok, if anything they look lean.
First, was the compression test with the engine hot or cold? 170psi on a 1200 build seems low...

Second, here's the Sportsterpedia section on the CV40 carb and tuning.
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:carb02

Read over the section about aligning the carb to manifold to minimize intake air leaks.

Be sure to check the vacuum petcock is working to fully allow fuel & not leaking fuel down the vacuum line.
See SP here: http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:body02


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Old 28th July 2021
Jfart Jfart is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
First, was the compression test with the engine hot or cold? 170psi on a 1200 build seems low...

Second, here's the Sportsterpedia section on the CV40 carb and tuning.
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:carb02

Read over the section about aligning the carb to manifold to minimize intake air leaks.

Be sure to check the vacuum petcock is working to fully allow fuel & not leaking fuel down the vacuum line.
See SP here: http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:body02


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Compression test was ran cold with open throttle. Iíll re run it warmed up. Thanks for the info. Iíll update what I find out when I know.
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Old 28th July 2021
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Remember that the CV40 carb DOES NOT HAVE AN OPEN VENTURI when you hold the THROTTLE ALONE... You must manually LIFT THE CARB SLIDE & HOLD THE THROTTLE OPEN in order to get full air flow thru the carb...

So, you have to remove the air cleaner to get to the slide, hold it up, hold (or lock) the throttle open, then hit the starter button to roll the engine thru some revs to reach full compression on the gauge...

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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 28th July 2021 at 00:50..
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