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  #811  
Old 3rd November 2019
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Those washers look the same as they use on the brake lines. Much better than copper.
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  #812  
Old 3rd November 2019
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GM used those washers on oil pan drain plugs in the 90s and 2000s. Then they added a groove in the washer head of the bolt for a modified o-ring. The pictured seal washers can get torn up by over torquing and uneven surfaces they contact. Burrs where the surface is tapped for threads should be checked for and removed.
Joe
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  #813  
Old 3rd November 2019
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although could be related to laws, the orifice choice was based off displacement volume to control pulsation and to have a minimal effect on the reading.
it would be diff for diff engines.
if it was just flow, a "SONY" flow calculator would do the trick.
https://petersoninst.com/wp-content/.../12/sonney.jpg
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  #814  
Old 4th November 2019
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Today's testing with the new umbrellas showed about a 3-1/4" reduction in vacuum at idle.
edit:
That's in the left leg (6-1/2" of water total).

The engine seems to lope a little better at idle although there wasn't a seat of the pants difference on the road.

I tested with the A/C off also through 5000 and there wasn't any difference between having it on or having it off.

I moved the timing both ways while testing and there was no difference in the readings.

But I'm now going to positive pressure around 4200 rpm.
At both 1000 and 2000 RPM, there was not a fast changing variance in the measurement (as was in the previous test mostly at idle).
The variant level is still about a 1/4" up and down but it rises and falls slower now.

The spitting back now begins around 4100-4200 in the shop. Coincidently that's about where I'm going to positive now.
I don't notice this at all on the road. I haven't touched the carb yet.
I call it spitting back but there is a noticeable vibration and a change in engine harmonics when this happens.
There doesn't seem to be any engine drag as I can roll the throttle over it and it kind of goes away.

I forgot to pull the oil cap today.

1000 RPM:


2000 RPM:
[IMG][/IMG]

3000 RPM:


4000 RPM:


5000 RPM:


1000 RPM with the A/C removed:


There is condensation and light oil mist accumulated at the bolts.
But none of this is in the A/C and no oil puking.



edit:
I'll add also I've had no noticeable signs of wetsumping or oil puking out the breathers even before any of this testing began.
This is the first time I've had the A/C off during testing or paid attention to the bolts.
So the oil accumulation coming mainly from the rear bolt may have been from the rear umbrella before I changed them.
It was a little stiffer than the front but still would bend over. Just not as much as the front would.
The front was just as flimsy as a new one.
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Last edited by Hippysmack; 8th November 2019 at 03:01.. Reason: moved pics to Sportsterpedia
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  #815  
Old 4th November 2019
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60Gunner, I'd be real curious where you would be about now on a slack tube.
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  #816  
Old 4th November 2019
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If I built a 12" tube box, mounted it by behind the windshield and throttled the feed to it, would the wind create too much pressure on the top of the tube for the readings to be measured?
Would throttling the feed have any change on height?
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  #817  
Old 4th November 2019
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i do not think the fluttering is related
on occasion, mine will do the same thing
i attribute it to cv flutter.
it occurs mostly when i start up and roll before the temps come up. i am geared diff so mine comes in the 2.5 > 3.5 rpm range and is very noticeable but i can change rpm and it goes away and after awhile it goes away. i also run on the rich side to avoid a high speed lean out so mixture plays a part also. if the machine is running normal temps, better hold on.
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  #818  
Old 4th November 2019
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if you have a fly on your dash board and you are doing 60 mph and the fly decides to lift off, why does he not get slammed into the rear window?
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  #819  
Old 4th November 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
60Gunner, I'd be real curious where you would be about now on a slack tube.
*Sigh* I knew that was coming sooner or later.
My idle was noticeably better. I noticed this immediately on start up the very first time. It also revved easier, smoother.
This was just plugging it in the hose right after the horseshoe too. I had previously done away with the hoses and clogged filter and ran open bolts a few days. When the krankvent came I put the hoses back on with just a 3" length going to it and nothing after. This difference was quite noticeable.

Last edited by 60Gunner; 4th November 2019 at 16:39..
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  #820  
Old 4th November 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60Gunner View Post
*Sigh* I knew that was coming sooner or later.
My idle was noticeably better. I noticed this immediately on start up the very first time. It also revved easier, smoother.
This was just plugging it in the hose right after the horseshoe too. I had previously done away with the hoses and clogged filter and ran open bolts a few days. When the krankvent came I put the hoses back on with just a 3" length going to it and nothing after. This difference was quite noticeable.
I'm thinking the rear umbrella on mine wasn't opening far enough.
Or maybe it was stuck closed seeing how so little force is exerted outward.
It wasn't hard though.....
For whatever reason, I had more vacuum than with new umbrellas.
Your umbrella doesn't allow any atmosphere to enter, outside of closing time.
I was just wondering how much vacuum you had.
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