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  #161  
Old 31st August 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
What is your idle speed? Sounds a little low to me.
Other than that, I didn't hear anything that bugged me.
Slow loping is for BTs but can ruin a Sportster if run too long too low.
If you mean 1-2 hash marks on the ign module in the cone, each mark is 5 degrees.
So that'd be 5-10 degrees retarded.
It’s got a dyna2000i ignition module. I just marked it myself. I believe the led light turns off at 30*. Then I regard to 28* (counterclockwise). It was .001 - .002 retarded more than I wanted 28 when I checked it today. Such a small amount but made a huge difference.

My idle speed should be at 900rpms. I just got a temporary rpm tach late last week. I’ll recheck it. In the video with the idle it had just started. Idle def speeds up after being warmed up. I should’nt inset the idle after the engine is warmed up?

I realized tonight the the ignition module or coil say nothing about what spark plug wire should go to what cylinder with single fire. I have my left spark plug wire from coil going to the front plug as a stock coil would have. I would think this makes a difference but maybe I’m missing something. Anyone know about this?
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  #162  
Old 31st August 2021
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Do you use the enrichener on startup?
Usually it's fast idle on startup with enrichener and down to 1050-1100 on hot idle.
900 is too low.
You lug that engine and you'll have to start a rebuild thread.
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  #163  
Old 31st August 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
Do you use the enrichener on startup?
Usually it's fast idle on startup with enrichener and down to 1050-1100 on hot idle.
900 is too low.
You lug that engine and you'll have to start a rebuild thread.
I use the enriched for guessing 5-10 seconds. I’ll check it tonight. I was thinking the book said 800-1000 RPM’s. I just put it in the middle.

Just to name sure get the bike good and warmed up then tune to 1000 - 1050 RPMS? I use one of the old style tachs that wraps around the front spark plug cord 5-6 times. I’ve got a single fire coil. if I set it on 1P1R then times the number on the tach by two it would give me my accurate rpm?
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  #164  
Old 31st August 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
Do you use the enrichener on startup?
Usually it's fast idle on startup with enrichener and down to 1050-1100 on hot idle.
900 is too low.
You lug that engine and you'll have to start a rebuild thread.
I had already pushed the enriches in.

The lugging hou mention were you talking about the RPM’s or my driving?

I’m normally have the opposite problem. No matter where I’m going the rpm’s Up. I was just concerned about the valve sound the day before. I was hesitant to even start it or check a few things first. I figure it had already been risen beyond that point most likely. I just was trying to keep low RPM’s just in case. Shifted into 2nd at 20mph and 3rd at 30mph. I normally go into 2nd at 25 maybe a higher. Don’t really look but I bet 3rd is more like 35-40mph.
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  #165  
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Next question

I’m going to need a winter project and I didn’t intend to add heads this summer but ended up adding them late. That’s why I have the N4 cams.

To be honest I didn’t think heads would be that much of a game changer but those stock hemi 1200 heads were choking everthing I had on done too the bike. Could notice big difference just putsing down my rough alleyway to the stop sign. I’m convinced heads mean everything on these evo’s.

I’m definitely interested in turning it up maybe after this coming summer. I’d like to get some canes that I could install this winter that take advantage of the heads. If possible I’d like to reuse them the following year in a build with a 1275 reverse dome pistons, HSR45 carb, manifold, and a better suspension. I just have burly’s slammed on the rear now.

Is there a cam that would take advantage of my heads now more than the N4’s and would still be optimum for a future build that’ll break 100.

Also can these screaming eagle cnc ported heads be worked over enough or am I better off getting better heads for those cylinders and pistons?

I wouldn’t mind getting another rigid frame to turn into a flat dirt track bike. I could always put my flat tops on it if I did convert this bike again.
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  #166  
Old 31st August 2021
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I think you need to revisit tuning on that carb.
See the "idle drop method" on the CV tuning page in the Sportsterpedia.
http://www.sportsterpedia.com/doku.p...alk:evo:carb02
I was actually talking about idle lugging.
Yours doesn't sound too low but I just noticed it didn't sound "hungry".
I guess that's how I see it.
The motor can sound feeble with too low idle, in need of a push being a little low, or HUNGRY with a good idle.
I figured you were taking it easy for the camera on that ride.
I was hoping so anyway.
I'd let the motor tell you when to shift. A Sportster WANTS RPM.
I'm running SE Pro II heads with N-4s on 1250 and you bet, she's hungry all the time.
Mods are a never ending drug, just be careful to not get more power than you'll ever come close to using.
I always want more than I can use but more power comes with more $ and headaches.
So find a good balance.
Heads are a very important part but if you have tons of power and your gearing isn't matched for it, you'll never get the most of your power.
The guys at Hammer Perf already know the combos for a never ending smile.
So when you get ready, give them a call and they can get you into what you want.
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  #167  
Old 31st August 2021
Jfart Jfart is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
I think you need to revisit tuning on that carb.
See the "idle drop method" on the CV tuning page in the Sportsterpedia.
http://www.sportsterpedia.com/doku.p...alk:evo:carb02
I was actually talking about idle lugging.
Yours doesn't sound too low but I just noticed it didn't sound "hungry".
I guess that's how I see it.
The motor can sound feeble with too low idle, in need of a push being a little low, or HUNGRY with a good idle.
I figured you were taking it easy for the camera on that ride.
I was hoping so anyway.
I'd let the motor tell you when to shift. A Sportster WANTS RPM.
I'm running SE Pro II heads with N-4s on 1250 and you bet, she's hungry all the time.
Mods are a never ending drug, just be careful to not get more power than you'll ever come close to using.
I always want more than I can use but more power comes with more $ and headaches.
So find a good balance.
Heads are a very important part but if you have tons of power and your gearing isn't matched for it, you'll never get the most of your power.
The guys at Hammer Perf already know the combos for a never ending smile.
So when you get ready, give them a call and they can get you into what you want.
It’s like you’ve read my mind with adjusting my carb more. The idle down is what I’ve used. It may have been you but someone explained part of the the idle drop method to me on this thread in more detail. On walking the IMS and the ISS down together.

I walked the two down together slowly and it would just get to a point where it would stall. So I tuned as low as it would go before the stall. This is probably causing it to run rich at idle. I’m hoping now that my ignition module seems to be running much better it will let me drop the idle speed farther without stalling during the drop down..

When you say thirsty. You mean thirsty for fuel?
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  #168  
Old 31st August 2021
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Engine has to be at operating temp or you are wasting your time.
Run the idle down to where it almost stalls (stays running though).
Adjust the mixture screw down to where the engine falters (stop there).
Now go back the other direction (but count the number turns of turns with the screwdriver as you go).
Continue until the engine perks up then falters again (stop).
Divide the number of turns from 1st to second falter in half.
Turn the screw back that many turns and you should then be in the middle of the (lean/rich to falter) range.
Now adjust the idle to 1000-1050 (what's in the manual).
But do walk up between 1050 and 1100 to see if the engine "feels" better there.
Now go back and read this section here and maybe it'll make more sense?
http://www.sportsterpedia.com/doku.p...ting_idle_fuel

You'll see what I mean doing the idle drop method. When it falters as opposed to when you get it centered.

I actually said "Hungry".
You ever thought about a dog's growl?
A poodle goes "bark-bark".
A shepherd "growls" (you know, one of those growls where they don't have to bark to make a point?)
It's not about exhaust either. It's about attitude.
I have no idea how to explain Hungry. But no it's not from gas starvation.
It just sounds like a growling shepherd that is being held back by it's owner.
Sounds healthy. You can listen to a stumbling motor in comparison and think "That motor doesn't sound healthy".

Last edited by Hippysmack; 31st August 2021 at 22:54.. Reason: Lying fingers
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  #169  
Old 1st September 2021
Jfart Jfart is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
Engine has to be at operating temp or you are wasting your time.
Run the idle down to where it almost stalls (stays running though).
Adjust the mixture screw down to where the engine falters (stop there).
Now go back the other direction (but count the number turns of turns with the screwdriver as you go).
Continue until the engine perks up then falters again (stop).
Divide the number of turns from 1st to second falter in half.
Turn the screw back that many turns and you should then be in the middle of the (lean/rich to falter) range.
Now adjust the idle to 1000-1050 (what's in the manual).
But do walk up between 1050 and 1100 to see if the engine "feels" better there.
Now go back and read this section here and maybe it'll make more sense?
http://www.sportsterpedia.com/doku.p...ting_idle_fuel

You'll see what I mean doing the idle drop method. When it falters as opposed to when you get it centered.

I actually said "Hungry".
You ever thought about a dog's growl?
A poodle goes "bark-bark".
A shepherd "growls" (you know, one of those growls where they don't have to bark to make a point?)
It's not about exhaust either. It's about attitude.
I have no idea how to explain Hungry. But no it's not from gas starvation.
It just sounds like a growling shepherd that is being held back by it's owner.
Sounds healthy. You can listen to a stumbling motor in comparison and think "That motor doesn't sound healthy".
The growl haha. I get what your putting down.

I just messed with that carb for way too long. Want to clarify a few things. When the butterfly closes is it suppose to sit on the transfer port closeted to the idle port? By the looks of it, no gas from the transfer ports can get past the butterfly. But the butterfly in a way sits on part of the transfer ports, closing them.

I took the intake off. Preset the butterfly so transfer ports are not letting fuel in. When the butterfly is closed it will not idle on its own. I have to crack and set the hand throttle. Started with IMS 2.5 turns out. Adjust up and it will start to falter as around 1 turn out, around 3.5 turns out total (enriching). Then I turn down to lean it out. I can hear it get better, then I can hear it falter. It seems to like the IMS around 2 turns out total, maybe a hair less.

When I close the IMS all the way in (lean), the motor won’t die and the butterfly is closed other than the hand throttle just cracked. Shouldn’t it die at that point? Do I have an intake or exhaust leak again or is this normal because I had to adjust the hand throttle slightly? Or does the air and fuel mix in the float enough that it won’t choke out from the closed butterfly?

I’m trying to imagine how it works after reading the carb section on sportsterpedia. I’m setting the IMS with the the butterfly open the slightest bit so it won’t stall at a really slow idle. Then I set the IMS in the middle as described. Kill the engine. I let the hand throttle go back to normal. Then I up my idle back to the 1000rpms area.

Does speeding up the idle create more vacuum pulling more air fuel mix into the idle port so it won’t die with the butter fly closed completely? With butterfly closed, to hand throttle cracked, on low idle it dies but when at fast idle it runs?
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  #170  
Old 1st September 2021
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For IMS setting, the idea is to get the lowest idle speed where the engine still runs in order find the center point of the two falter points. Just keep reducing the idle speed (minimal amount) as you find that center point.

IF the bike will idle with the IMS fully closed, you might consider using a 42 Slow Jet (or a 44) to reduce the overall fuel being supplied. IF you do that, you will find that the center point of your tuning has now moved to more turns out on the IMS because you are feeding less fuel thru the jet. Actually, you will be having a very similar Idle AFR (by the more turns), but the Transfer Port operation will be positively affected.

It's never a bad idea to check for intake leaks around the seal.

The Throttle Plate is never intended to physically prevent the Transfer Ports from flowing fuel, but rather it minimizes the vacuum over them by keeping them on the outer side of the plate (functionally). They may appear physically available, but functionally, when the plate is barely open, even if over them, they are functionally minimized or eliminated.

This is a balancing act. But the goal is to have the Idle Port fully active at idle with the Transfer Ports minimized as much as possible so they CAN become active when you crack the throttle. If they are already active when at idle, that won't happen and the engine will falter when you crack the throttle. This proper functioning of the Transfer Ports (during a transfer from off idle to needing the needle fuel) is the point of the IMS tuning.

After finding the center of the falters at the lowest rpm, you reopen the throttle plate to have a 950-1050 idle rpm. That centered IMS setting will then allow the best transfer function when opening the throttle for more power off idle.

Think in terms of the best possible tune, rather than some perfect micro-setting that must be achieved. There's some point in the tune (after doing your best) that is GOOD-ENOUGH...


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