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  #1  
Old 22nd July 2021
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Default Issues with Hammer 1275 kit

I installed a Hammer 1275 setup and did the cuddly break in procedure but as I got some more miles I couldn't help but twist the throttle a little after I got about 200 miles on. Nothing crazy, just a rip here and there and noticed an issue with limited rpm. So I decided to go ahead and put new lifters and valve springs in. Before tearing it down I did a compression and leakdown test. I had lower compression on the front cylinder and blow-by past the rings on both cylinders.

I took the heads off and noticed oil in the combustion chamber and the pistons seemed mighty loose. So I took the jugs and pistons off and planned to deglaze and put new rings in and try with different oil since I had it apart.

I took the pistons and jugs to two separate machine shops and they both told me the cylinders are way out of round and overbored. There was also some piston scuffing on the skirts and down toward the bottom of the cylinders. The second shop actually had another set of Hammer jugs sitting there that were also junk.

Now this is after less than. 250 miles, being easy on it for at least 200 miles, never overheating it, longest ride was about 20 miles. Needless to say I am quite unhappy. Has anyone else run into issues like this? Both machine shops said that it appears that when. They bored the jugs they went too fast, didn't allow cooling and probably didn't have the spigots properly supported at time of machining.
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Old 22nd July 2021
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Old 22nd July 2021
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What condition were the heads in when you built it?

Was the ignition set right for the build, and was the carb re-jetted after the build? Did the plugs read good before you tore into it?

Also NO, I have never seen a Hammer kit that was out of spec so far. You should talk to Aaron and see what he thinks. Maybe mic both the bores and the pistons and compare the readings to Hammer's specs, before you call him. It almost seems like there weren't enough miles to get the jugs out of round, but if the carb was running too lean and the timing was too advanced I suppose it could have sped up the wear. When this goes back together, I recommend plug readings after initial run in and after every ride to make sure it's metering good.
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Old 22nd July 2021
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Dyna ignition set to curve 4, carb was jetted to the instruction specs, heads were in fine shape. Everything checks out but the cylinders.

I initially was getting fouled plugs just riding the bike to and from work which is about 3 miles. That stop after about 50 miles. After that the plugs looked decent but I also hadn't ridden it more than a few miles at a time. I rode it over for a family birthday which was about 20 miles one way. I let it cool and checked plugs. They looked lean so while I was there I rejetted a step richer. I brought jets with. I rode it home and plugs looked good. Plugs looked good when I took them out before compression and leakdown test.
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How many miles on the motor since the build?
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249.3 miles. The cylinders still have crosshatch. I was meticulous about heat, literally carried an infrared temp gun and checked cylinder, head and exhaust temps every time I stopped as well as having an oil temp dipstick. I did not overheat the thing. It never went over 3500 rpms or half throttle for 200 miles.
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
How many miles on the motor since the build?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Rowdy View Post
249.3 miles. The cylinders still have crosshatch. I was meticulous about heat, literally carried an infrared temp gun and checked cylinder, head and exhaust temps every time I stopped as well as having an oil temp dipstick. I did not overheat the thing. It never went over 3500 rpms or half throttle for 200 miles.
Some background information for those evaluating this situation. Quotes from previous posts by the OP regarding the build and issues encountered.

http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2079604
"I have installed a Hammer 1275 top end, Lowbrow Hooligan 2:1 exhaust and a cheap but decent air cleaner. Still running the stock 883 heads just cleaned up with new valve seals, no porting. Running a CV40 carb with the factory needle, 180 main and 42 idle jets. Factory ignition with the plate retarded per Hammer instructions. Also the factory D cams as well as factory drive belt and gearing which equates to 2.26 final ratio."

"I am a Motocrosser, so mid to top end power is where I live. I can't stand an engine that doesn't pull to redline."

http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2079688
"Today was the first chance I have had to actually run the bike fairly hard. Got onto the highway and let it rip and in 2nd gear I let the rpms run and despite my Dyna2000 rev limiter being set at 6500 I hit the wall at around 5500 according to my factory tach."

http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2079707
"So after I did the 1275 I wasn't happy with the stock D cams AND I was having a low oil pressure light after it got hot and at low rpms. I installed Reaper cams and a bronze oil pump gear and a new oil pressure switch. It runs good but refuses to get past 5500-5800 rpms despite my Dyna2000 rev limiter being set at 6500."

"I've tried limiter setting of 6000, 6500 and 7000 with no change [in the tachometer max reading]."

"A compression test shows 155 psi front and 165 psi rear with the engine cold. A leakdown shows both valves sealing on both cylinders and a minimal amount of blowby through the timing plug at TDC on both cylinders. Again, engine was dead cold."


Question??? - What were the actual compression numbers on the cylinders just before your recent teardown? Was the engine at operating temperature?


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Compression was 155 on the front and 165 rear, I did it cold. I should have got it to temp before test but it was coming apart either way. The reason why I decided to put new rings in was because of the blow-by and oil in the combustion chamber and only found out about the cylinder bore issues after I took them to a machine shop to deglaze and double check piston to cylinder wall clearance. When I got the kit I had Hammer gap the rings and install the pistons. I never had the pistons out of the cylinders after unboxing the setup.
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Old 22nd July 2021
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From Hammer's break-in page:
http://www.hammerperf.com/ttinstallkit.shtml#BreakIn

◦For the next 500 miles, stay below 4000rpm, avoid using full throttle, and keep the heat down.
◦Once you're past the 500 mile break-in period, change your oil. During break-in, the rings have carved the cylinders into their shape and the shavings have been captured in theoil, so you want to change the oil to get that stuff out. Use any high quality 20W-50 oil formulated for air-cooled V-Twin engines.


Until you've done the breakin miles, yes the cylinders will be out of round.
The rings will have to do the final machining process before compression, leak down tests can be accurate.
Cold test don't tell you much more than you don't have a hole in your pistons.
There is no way I'd change anything about the motor UNTIL breakin was done.
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Old 22nd July 2021
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The hole is too big for the pistons and not round. Piston to cylinder wall clearance was well beyond spec.
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