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  #11  
Old 5th August 2021
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No choke on a CV. A choke adds air.
CV has an enrichener, adds gas.
__________________
Diagnosis begins before teardown, during and after rebuild.

In Search of Fuel, Sunshine and a Steady Idle.

Reference the XLFORUM'S Sportsterpedia
for additional technical information & advice
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  #12  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
No choke on a CV. A choke adds air.
CV has an enrichener, adds gas.
While you are correct, even the knob says "choke".
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Doesn't sound rite... CV 40 with 45 pilot on a 1275 engine. I would have thought a 46, maybe more depending on how its tunes up. If its rich your are getting gas from somewhere else.

Does the fuel/air mixture screw have any effect when adjusted in/out?

found this...https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=AwrV...kHHLgzq3UuTWU-

Last edited by Fivecats; 5th August 2021 at 19:43..
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  #14  
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What's your IMS needle set at? Are you sure it seated all the way before turning it out?

Sometimes with a new O ring you might get a false "stop" point a few turns out from actually seated. I rebuild a lot of dual sport carbs and I've noticed it several times when doing a rebuild. Also, make sure the little washer fits properly, often they can hang up too. Just an idea of why you might be a bit rich. Choke/enrichener a good place to check, and also your vacuum petcock could be sucking fuel into the vacuum port. Suzuki dirt bikes are notorious for flooding the crankcase with gas through the vacuum port.

John
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The fuel screw is set at 3 turns out and a 45 pilot is what Hammer suggests to start with. I'll adjust the fuel screw some once I find my fancy 90 degree screwdriver doodad. I have the finger adjustable screw on my Softail. The choke isn't enrichening, it's just the pilot and fuel screw is a little on the rich side. But it's been like 85 degrees in the mornings and 100 during the day. I'm not too stressed over it. And it doesn't have a vacuum petcock. Oh, it's got a factory non-adjustable needle.
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3 turns out is just a starting point.
It sounds like you understand doing the idle drop method. Just in case.
http://www.sportsterpedia.com/doku.p...ting_idle_fuel

The "choke" labeling on the enrichener has probably been the joke of the century from HD.
But as long as you understand it's function, doesn't matter what you call it I guess.
I was just thinking others may get confused is why I posted that.
And clarity for those that are unfamiliar with it's function.
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Old 6th August 2021
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Been tuning carbs of all sorts for a long time. And yes, it is interesting that not only does the knob say "choke" but even has the old closed choke plate design on it. Went to lunch with a friend and despite it being over 100 degrees out the bike ran smooth and oil temp never went above 200. So it's in good shape temp wise. So far so good. I did tweak the fuel screw a bit after it was warmed up and just needed a tad bit leaner than it was. I will worry about putting the good crispy tune on it once it is broken in more, but it's pretty happy where it's at. It is the same jetting that it had before but it runs considerably better.
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  #18  
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If it were me, I'd be more concerned about head temps than oil temp during break-in.
Heads heat up quite faster and hotter than the oil does.
I'm glad to hear it's running good.
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Head temps taken near the spark plug have been around 215 after a ride.
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Try over near the exhaust, just above or beside.
215F seems cold for head temps.

edit:
Not that 215 is a bad thing. The cooler the better during break-in.
But the hottest part of the head is probably the best place to monitor.

Last edited by Hippysmack; 6th August 2021 at 05:58..
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