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  #1  
Old 16th August 2019
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Question Replaced bad VOES... Engine sounds weird when hot and idle

Long time no post. I noticed my VOES went bad last year after replacing piston rings.

Long story short, bought a new VOES, and when running hard and fast the engine runs great... but when slow down, or come to a stop light or stop sign, or basically engine is idling after a long hard fast run and engine is hot, it sounds like is over heating and exhaust signature sounds wrong kinda like pinging maybe?

Once I get going on long road and on throttle and up to speed, is like engine is back to normal.

I may have bought the wrong Vacuum setting VOES, or got the wrong setting.

I know there are other threads on VOES, and what it does, but how do I know I have the right Vacuum setting on the VOES?

I think I have the wrong setting. With symptoms described above... would I need a higher setting Vacuum VOES, or a lower Setting VOES?

I could adjust it, and or add a switch to the wiring to manually activate or deactivate it during the weird sound of pinging or engine just getting to hot and ignition timing not greatest to try something, but would rather ask question first before I try.

My engine is highly modified, heads ported, etc, and should state in signature.

With higher altitude in Sturgis, doesn't do it as much... but in lower altitude in Indiana, does it way more. But only thing changed was the VOES.

Would I need a higher Vacuum setting VOES, or a lower Vacuum setting VOES from symptoms, or does the symptoms not imply the VOES is at wrong Vacuum setting?

I am running the Daytona Twin Etc 1005s-EX cone ignition module that has changed from my signature. With Setting 0 - Dual fire multi spark disabled, and next set to slope of 7.

Maybe my ignition cone slope is not the right slope also?

Thanks for the feedback

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Last edited by groovemeisterus; 16th August 2019 at 04:00.. Reason: Added possibly setting to different slope on Ignition module
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Here's a thorough section in the Sportsterpedia on the VOES:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...lectric_switch

When replacing the VOES, Did you change the timing curves in the ICM? Did you adjust the base timing when the VOES was failing?

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Old 16th August 2019
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Awesome. Thanks for those links. First on VOES really help explain things. Need to print out and add to my manual for future reference.




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Old 16th August 2019
Four Speed Four Speed is offline
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Quote:
how do I know I have the right Vacuum setting on the VOES?
You need to connect a vacuum gauge and test how much negative pressure before it switches compared to the book spec. It can have a big effect on running.
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Old 20th August 2019
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Four Speed View Post
You need to connect a vacuum gauge and test how much negative pressure before it switches compared to the book spec. It can have a big effect on running.
I already did with a vacuum gauge and an multi meter. VOES switches on at 6" vacuum.

I put a Y connector and hooked up the vacuum gauge with the VOES to see while engine is warmed up and running at idle where my bike vacuum readings are at on the scale.

With the below video of gauge and bike running, looks like vacuum goes below 6" to 5". Which makes be think I need to adjust VOES to about 4.5" or so to stop pinging since it seems to be right on the border swithing curves back and forth just during idle.

The sportsterpedia says if set to low, then remain on more advanced curve for too long under mid-load acceleration and pinging will occur.

When going fast engine seems good, but when have to slow and cruise after long distances, like at a stop sign or light, or just slowing down cause of speed limit lower, i believe my bike is pinging or engine is sounding like it is over heating, the exhaust note changes.

So i believe my VOES needs to be set from 6" set point to a 4.5" set point.

Video of slo mo vacuum gauge when engine was warmed up and at idle.
https://youtu.be/dntWQvw3SUU
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6" sounds high, more like Big twin. 4.5' sound more likely but set the VOEs to what your HD destruction manual says is correct.
You will need to carefully dig out the sealant plug and reset it. Don't forget to let the new sealant cure before you run the engine again.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Four Speed View Post
6" sounds high, more like Big twin. 4.5' sound more likely but set the VOEs to what your HD destruction manual says is correct.
You will need to carefully dig out the sealant plug and reset it. Don't forget to let the new sealant cure before you run the engine again.


Set to 3.5" last night and resealed.
Also read that set points should be 3.5"-4.5" also.

Last one went bad and this is new one. Maybe got the wrong one shipped.


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Old 21st August 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by groovemeisterus View Post
Set to 3.5" last night and resealed.
Also read that set points should be 3.5"-4.5" also.
You want stability. By that I mean a setting that's always on or always off at the vacuum you pull idling. Then tune accordingly.

You might also use your gauge and try optimizing your idle. Adjusting the mixture to get the highest (vacuum) reading you can at idle. Might also add some restriction to the hose to your gauge to damp its' fluctuations some. Aside from being easier to read it will help keep your gauge from self destructing. Those needle swings are hard on them.

If you have an analog VOM (one with a needle) you can hook it to the VOES and see if it's switching at idle. That can make tuning a nightmare. I don't know how much damping they have built in.

If you already knew this just ignore me.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcatt View Post
You want stability. By that I mean a setting that's always on or always off at the vacuum you pull idling. Then tune accordingly.

You might also use your gauge and try optimizing your idle. Adjusting the mixture to get the highest (vacuum) reading you can at idle. Might also add some restriction to the hose to your gauge to damp its' fluctuations some. Aside from being easier to read it will help keep your gauge from self destructing. Those needle swings are hard on them.

If you have an analog VOM (one with a needle) you can hook it to the VOES and see if it's switching at idle. That can make tuning a nightmare. I don't know how much damping they have built in.

If you already knew this just ignore me.


Thanks


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