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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 9th June 2020
Nacs Nacs is offline
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Sorry to jump in on the thread here but it has to do with points. Ive noticed that whenever I inspect the points on my XL, they are usually chipped. Its always the moving arm side of the point. My thought was that the heel is not flush with the other side and it slaps, but the base is a ring, Blue Streak brand. Getting a flush contact with the ring design seems almost impossible...? The bike runs fine but with an occasional sputter at sustained highway speeds but otherwise is fine. I rode it on my 90 mile commute yesterday.

Am I playing with fire by riding with 75% of one contact surface? Is there a higher quality point?

I only ask because I havent seen this condition before on other bikes, Can this be corrected?
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  #12  
Old 9th June 2020
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Whitewalls Whitewalls is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nacs View Post
Sorry to jump in on the thread here but it has to do with points. Ive noticed that whenever I inspect the points on my XL, they are usually chipped. Its always the moving arm side of the point. My thought was that the heel is not flush with the other side and it slaps, but the base is a ring, Blue Streak brand. Getting a flush contact with the ring design seems almost impossible...? The bike runs fine but with an occasional sputter at sustained highway speeds but otherwise is fine. I rode it on my 90 mile commute yesterday.

Am I playing with fire by riding with 75% of one contact surface? Is there a higher quality point?

I only ask because I havent seen this condition before on other bikes, Can this be corrected?
The contact surfaces need to meet flush or they will burn and not last.
Contacts are aligned by bending the stationary bracket. Never bend the moving arm.
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  #13  
Old 9th June 2020
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ryder rick ryder rick is offline
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I was told many moons ago, that the condenser size will affect the points.
If the condenser is too big it will build up material on one side of the points, and if too small it will build up on the other side.
I don't remember specifics, and recommend getting rid of the centrifugal advance and installing a real Electronic Ignition.
No misfires are acceptable, every combustion event needs to be the same and optimized or you are leaving lots on the table.
The misfires you are detecting say that there are likely plenty more misfires that are going undetected.

Install the Ultima Kit and include a VOES and realize what you are mssing!
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  #14  
Old 9th June 2020
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Default Points

I kept the points on my old 70s bikes. Have I spent time fiddling around setting em up? Sure. You can get them working just fine imo.
Anyway the original question was about chipping and whether the contacts need to line up. If they’re chipped there’s something wrong. Look closely maybe they burnt. Watch them closely with the bike running is a good idea. They need to line up and they need to be flush. I bent a set once with the socket I was using to turn the engine over. Doh.
There are cheapo points out there too obviously. Don’t assume because they’re new that they are built right. I had a new set where the contact point was not riveted on tight enough which made it bounce around leading to all kinds of troubles. Just my two cents worth.
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  #15  
Old 10th June 2020
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capacitors fail in three ways
1. open
2. short
3. change of value

yes they can go bad sitting on the shelf, never used. the best way to test is under actual load value. another issue is series resistance.
static cap tester is basically a go/no go test and can miss a wide range of issues under dynamic load.
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  #16  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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under actual load value.using an oscilloscope reading microfarads?
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