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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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  #1  
Old 13th August 2018
Scratch462 Scratch462 is offline
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Default Gas smell after AC upgrade

I'm back on the Sportster forums after being gone a few years as I just picked up an 05 883 low.

Last week I upgraded the air cleaner from the stock ham can to a K&N round air cleaner kit. I otherwise did not make any changes. Riding it yesterday all seemed well and it runs great (even without rejetting). But I noticed when I get deeper in the throttle I get a gas smell. I don't see any leaks, filter isn't wet and its only under harder acceleration. Before the AC change I didn't have this.

So I guess I'm wondering, is this normal for an open element style air filter?
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Old 13th August 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scratch462 View Post
I noticed when I get deeper in the throttle I get a gas smell.
<SNIP>
So I guess I'm wondering, is this normal for an open element style air filter?
You may be experiencing Reversion from the exhaust pipes... Stock? Drag pipes?

See Post#5 by aswracing
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1706021

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Old 14th August 2018
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I’m kind of guessing that may be it as well. Current setup is K&N round open element filter, Rush racing slip ons with the smallest baffles (1.25 I believe), fresh NGK Iridium plugs and new Accel wires. As far as I know it’s otherwise stock. I’ve not yet got into the carb but planned to rebuild and rejet at some point.

So at this point what would be a good net move? I do have the stock filter assembly and mufflers still but the goal here is to squeeze a few more ponies out of the old girl if possible.
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Old 14th August 2018
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aswracing:

"Overlap can be a wonderful thing in a set of cams, as it effectively connects the exhaust system to the intake tract and gives the exhaust an opportunity to pull on the intake charge at the front of the intake stroke, thus getting it moving before the piston even starts pulling on it."

"However, if the pipe comes in with a positive pressure wave right then, it'll actually push the next intake charge (which is already sitting in the carb and intake tract) right back out of the carb. You see this as a fog of fuel standing outside the carb (a "stand-off"). Then the piston goes down and sucks it all in again. This kills cylinder fill, causing a huge drop in the torque. It also causes the afr to go rich because the intake charge ends up passing through the carb 3 times (in, out, back in again), picking up fuel each time. This is called a 'reversion'."

I think the cams & pipes each have a 'tune point' - getting them to work together, at the point you want power, is a matter of choosing the right combination... I suspect even the best combinations have weak spots in the rpm range and strong spots - but some combinations have bad and worse spots. Without changing both cams & exhaust system, you only have a bit of tweaking you can do with the pipes, which may not be enough to overcome the problems...

I'm no expert... Perhaps you could alter the baffling to see if you can alter the 'reversion' point or intensity...

If you look thru the Hammer Performance website (hammerperf.com) you will find all kinds of performance tips & many reviews of various exhaust pipes which DO or DO_NOT work well...

Exhaust Systems:
http://hammerperf.com/ttxlexhaust.shtml

Be sure to check out the CAMS & other engine components that are being used for these tests - The results rely on the combination of all parts working together...

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I'm thinking about trying a set of these and see if anything changes. According to the Hammer site my slip ons were very high performing so I hate to take them out of the equation.

http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/thun...dk-tti-158.htm
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