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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #1  
Old 20th May 2019
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xElvis xElvis is offline
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Default Stuck in gears / clutch not engaging?

Basics: '08 883 w/ ~100k miles
Barnett kevlar clutch dealer installed w/o spring plate
Been working fine for ~15k since my last adventures here: http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2019607


Has long had slow primary oil leak. Thought I'd forgotten o-ring gasket on cable last time, so opened derby cover and removed cable. Fine. Gasket already there. Hmm...
Discovered cable wasn't threaded into case and can't be. Wrong threading?
Cable is not stock, replaced >5k miles ago, no problem, just drips.
Reassembled everything, can't get clutch to work. Went back and looked up the fine work here: http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...vo:priclutch01 about how to adjust and set the clutch. I used this info before, successfully. Tried adjusting again, and again, and again. No matter what, the bike remains in gear.
Turned the adjustment screw fully tight, bike is in gear. Fully loose, bike in gear. WTF?!
Neutral still works, bike rolls. No combo of cable / clutch adjustment seems to let it roll freely though. Always high resistance stoppage like it's in gear.
To be clear, I did NOT open the primary cover, only the derby.
So now, not only will it keep dripping if I put oil back in, but now, it is not rideable. I gottta get this fixed, stat. It's my only way around.


Any help or suggestions are welcome, I'm against it.
Thanks.
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Last edited by xElvis; 20th May 2019 at 17:29.. Reason: more info
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  #2  
Old 20th May 2019
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motorend motorend is offline
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The adjustment is usually to fully collapse the clutch cable so the lever is fully slack. Then you go into the derby cover and remove the hex nut with the spring. You turn it counter clockwise till it lightly seats and then back it off a quarter turn. Then adjust the clutch lever for the proper play.
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Old 20th May 2019
Tomcatt Tomcatt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xElvis View Post
Discovered cable wasn't threaded into case and can't be. Wrong threading?
Cable is not stock, replaced >5k miles ago, no problem, just drips.
Reassembled everything, can't get clutch to work. Went back and looked up the fine work here: http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...vo:priclutch01 about how to adjust and set the clutch. I used this info before, successfully. Tried adjusting again, and again, and again. No matter what, the bike remains in gear.
Turned the adjustment screw fully tight, bike is in gear. Fully loose, bike in gear. WTF?!
Neutral still works, bike rolls. No combo of cable / clutch adjustment seems to let it roll freely though. Always high resistance stoppage like it's in gear.
This is a bit confusing. Do you mean that with the engine off, bike in gear, clutch lever pulled in it doesn't want to roll? You can't push it easily?

Sure it wasn't always this way? My clutch drags and feels like this after the bike has sat. It's much better after riding but if I want to move it in the garage it gets put in neutral. It's REALLY draggy and not easy to push in gear if the engine / trans/ etc isn't up to temp.
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  #4  
Old 20th May 2019
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Yes, I mean bike off, in 1st or 2nd gear, lever in, bike won't roll basically at all. Not firm, VERY hard to move. No, I don't think it was always this way. It always had some resistance, but I don't remember it being this bad.
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  #5  
Old 20th May 2019
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The primary leak needs to be fixed.
Whether that means a new cable, threading or whatever it takes.
This being your transportation, one time when you really need the bike with no time to worry about filling the oil level is when you're gonna be low on oil and mess up something in the tranny.

The sticking clutches when the bike is off, we all deal with that.
As long as they loosen up when the primary oil is warmed up is what counts.
The oil you're using may play a part in how much stickiness you're experiencing if you're trying to fine tune the 'touch' when cold.

But when the bike is running, they need to loosen up.
If they don't you might want to inspect the spring plate / clutch pack / basket (with the primary cover off).
I'm assuming since you've stated that you have adjusted the ramp with good results before, that is not the issue now.
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  #6  
Old 22nd May 2019
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My adjustments appear to have been correct. Even though it was almost entirely out of oil when I opened it, and it had been running, it seems the shotglass full or so of oil that came out after was all it took to keep the plates lubed for engine off pushing around on the lever.
Added 1/2 qt and boom, it rolls much smoother in gear, with the lever pulled.

Thanks all for the help. A new cable or heat resistant thread tape or high temp silicone goo will stop the leak when I have done more homework.
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Old 22nd May 2019
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It should take almost a whole quart or so. About 28oz. The bike should be standing upright and u want the oil to just start hitting the lower clutch.


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