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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #21  
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Patrick - Your description of a Pull-In & Hold-in coil on the Ironheads is also implemented on the EVO models - That diagram is to understand the CURRENT DRAW of the various sections - Not a detailed wiring diagram of the solenoid.

I suspect the Ironhead solenoid works the same as the EVO models - In the EVO models, the switch from 'Pull-In & Hold-In' to simply the 'Hold-In' windings is handled WITHIN the solenoid itself. In fact, what happens is that the positive power is initially applied thru the Pull-In windings (and Hold-In windings) and when the plunger moves to make contact for the Starter Motor, it also applies positive power to the other side of the Pull-In winding, which essentially makes those Pull-In windings Positive on Both Sides and no current flows.


Quote:
Originally Posted by thefrenchowl View Post
you will be a man my boy by using a big screwdriver to shorten the 2 posts!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Works a treat away from home...
Patrick
YEP - If you want to carry a BIG SCREWDRIVER and throw BIG SPARKS to start your Ironhead, that certainly can work - Or burn it up... There are lotsa ways to accomplish things, but not all of them are safe or practical or appropriate... Thanks for reminding us of that...


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This is the inside of my solenoid after it stayed engaged. A lot of the pitting is also caused by arcing inside when you are hearing that clicking noise when trying to start




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Good photos! Yeah, I am familiar with big sparks, when I accidentally touched a screwdriver from Solenoid Battery+ to Frame.......BOOM! Like a bolt of lightning, complete with thunder. That blew the cover off of my battery, although it was about 3 years old. ALWAYS DISCONNECT BATTERY when working on these. I knew that, but didn't do it that time. I did that before posting this so totally my fault there. If you want to be a real man, try that sometime. A real stupid man that is. Whoa Daddy! That did not help my Solenoid either.

If my "new" starter relay had not stuck in full on position I would not have even been messing with the Solenoid in the 1st place. So in reality, it really was CHINA's fault.......or whomever made the damn thing. I had 2 new Starter relays fail which caused the overheating mentioned at start of this post. That was dangerous. But, I would have never experienced the Big BOOM if that didn't happen. It really was like a bolt of lightning. I think my IQ increased after that too. Another positive! Did anybody see the old Sci Fi film "Forbidden Planet"? if not, you should. Same thing happened to Dr. Morbious (or was it Dubious?) as I recall.

Anyway, this is great group. Thank You!
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https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...1&d=1430098906

mount this to the frame front.
mr. sleigh, is the washer steel? if so, there is a fix for that. i have been down that road. the steel surface is dissimilar to the copper contacts and destruction is almost a sure thing. the fix will be to add in better materials like brass, silver solder or copper.

as a side note, the evo will do the same but at least the hd unit is copper on both sides. however, they will eventually carbon tack, i just filled in my contact surfaces with 15% silver solder a few days ago, higher the better, less corrosive and pitting. if you are patient, and the exhaust is not in the way, you can do it starter installed.
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The washer is copper I have a rebuild kit on the way so I have a backup in case of emergency. It is so much work to get at it though I just put in a new one this time. I get faster every time though
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The rebuild kit can cost as much as a replacement. Typically, a new one is the better choice.
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if yours were copper, you got a good one, the over-seas will be junk but you can rebuild with better materials. the copper is easier to fix with silver solder, way harder than copper and corrosion resistant. one member he even found a copper washer to fix his but the brass would be better.
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Good photos! I may try to take old Solenoid apart. May have enough room to pull black plastic cap off without completely taking everything else off the bike. I suspect problem is right underneath the cap due to connection, Solenoid is clicking loudly when starting, just does not engage Starter.

In photo, looks like that washer is removable (center of 1st photo), and +Battery lead would be the copper bolt soldered to copper wire. If there are any other critical contacts there, let me know if possible.The piece that would have gotten hottest was the mini-terminal on Solenoid. Other incident was touching socket to +Battery lead (big BOOM).

Thanks again!
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