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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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drive shaft, drive shaft nut, transmission

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  #1  
Old 24th February 2019
T_worth T_worth is offline
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Default HELP!!! My Drive Shaft Nut is Stuck!!!

I have a 96’ sporty and I’m trying to change the oil seal on my transmition. I’m trying to remove the drive shaft nut (I have a chain sprocket mind you). For the life of me, I can not get the nut off.

I have the front tire against a wall, and bike in 1st gear. I’m turning clockwise. I’ve applied PB blaster, applied heat, and have a breaker bar I’m applied all my weight and nothing. The bike is gonna fall over or engine will start to turn over a bit if I go any harder. I do not want to snap anything

ANY SUGGESTIONS?!?!?!?!
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  #2  
Old 24th February 2019
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Toejam503 Toejam503 is offline
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It's probably a left hand thread.
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  #3  
Old 24th February 2019
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Right. I’m trying to get it off and I know it’s a left handed thread nut. I’m turning clockwise. I’ve exhausted all options.
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  #4  
Old 24th February 2019
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I know it's a last gasp solution, but if you can get a new nut then you could always cut the old nut off with an angle grinder. Just stay well away from the threads, cut above and below,(or down each side) of the thread and the nut will then probable spin off.
If you do go down this route make sure you remove fuel tank and cover the carb.
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  #5  
Old 24th February 2019
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I've read that sometimes they weld themselves to the sprocket/shaft and you have to use heat and an impact gun or split the nut. Soaking it overnight with PB Blaster is supposed to help too.
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Old 24th February 2019
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I’m using the blue Bernzomatic propane tank, I don’t think it’s hot enough for such a thick nut. I’m gonna upgrade to the hotter yellow Bernzomatic MAP/PRO tank and see if that helps. Im gonna call it a day and let it soak in BP over night and try it again tomorrow.

I’ll save the nut cutting to last. If it is welded on the shaft, will my threads be messed up for a new nut to be used?
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  #7  
Old 24th February 2019
Bluto Bluto is offline
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If the breaker bar flexes too much that can be enough to prevent breaking the nut loose, bought a 3/4" breaker bar and that did the trick when my 1/2" was too wimpy (this was for an automotive job)
An electric or air impact wrench might to the trick too, would try these things before using lots of heat or cutting the nut off. Some of the newer cordless impact wrenches put out a LOT of torque...
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To split the nut, you use a cutting wheel on a dremel tool or die grinder and only cut 1/2 to 2/3 in to the nut, then wack it with a hammer and chisel. tape off any threads showing with a lot of tape, first. Cover most of the areas around it to keep metal shavings from the nut from getting into anything. Bluto is right about the breaker bar, the bigger and longer it is, the better. I personally do not like using an impact gun on stuff like this because the hammering can damage the bushings/bearings if you get carried away. Cheaper to just replace the nut than have to replace the bearings, too.
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Old 24th February 2019
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3/4” drive impact gun or bigger would be ideal.

I have had success in the past using a heavy hammer on a breakerbar to give the impact required to get it moving. I’ve done this by myself by holding the socket in place with my knee/leg, holding tension on the breakerbar with one hand and using the hammer in the other hand. Would be much easier with a second person

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Or a pipe on the breaker bar= more leverage.

I still love my impact on those. Don't forget it's red loctite. 450° minimum.
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