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  #1  
Old 10th August 2012
JonJuan76 JonJuan76 is offline
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Default Rear Brake Issue

Hello,

I was wondering if anyone could help me with a rear brake issue. Upon starting the bike cold and running around for about 30 or so minutes the rear brake works fine, but after running for a bit it seems to have a lot of pressure when I go to press down and not a lot of stopping happens. I just had the rear master cylinder rebuilt also.It has a braided line that runs from the master cylinder over to the other side to the disc. I noticed it has all of these extensions off the master before it hits the line and its also backed up to my rear exhaust which is wrapped with heat wrap. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

-Jon
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  #2  
Old 10th August 2012
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A photo or two would help. IF the line is running near the exhaust, check to see if it is hot. This could reduce the braking action. Was the system bled after the MC rebuild?
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Old 11th August 2012
millwright millwright is offline
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If this problem was present before the master cylinder was rebuilt, I would probably replace the line. It may be collapsing on the inside. This would explain why you feel a stiffer pedal and little braking action. I know this happens in the automotive world, I haven't had it happen on my bike, but rubber is rubber and dot 3 is dot 3. Now if it happened AFTER the master cylinder was rebuilt, then I would start there.

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Old 11th August 2012
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And if you had to have your mastercylinder rebuilt, you caliper will be in similar shape and need rebuilding too. It could be the caliper piston is not retracting, pads are rubbing on the disc and getting too hot to provide braking, ie fading.
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Old 11th August 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millwright View Post
... I would probably replace the line. It may be collapsing on the inside. ... but rubber is rubber and dot 3 is dot 3 ...
Do braided steel brake lkines have rubber on the inside? DOT 3 brake fluid has never been used on IronHeads except in error. DOT 5 only.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopper View Post
And if you had to have your mastercylinder rebuilt, you caliper will be in similar shape and need rebuilding too ...
+1
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+1 on the caliper, and yes they have rubber on the inside. The steel braids help keep the line from expanding when pressure is applied.

Did you reinstall the MC or did your Indie do it? And was the system bled.

I have always had good luck with using a syringe like Mick does to bleed from the Caliper up to the MC. Just make sure the line stays on or you'll be cleaning fluid out of your hair and everywhere else!
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Old 11th August 2012
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Mick your wrong about Dot3 never being used in a IH.I have a 74 I brought new and it had a sticker on the handle bar by M/C that stated to use Dot3.Do a search on here afew others also had this sticker.I now run 5 but left the sticker,maybe later I'll get a pic as I put the tender on last nite so I'll be ready for the weekend think I'm gonna try me one those 100MPH cruises.
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Old 11th August 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezmerf View Post
Mick your wrong about Dot3 never being used in a IH.I have a 74 I brought new and it had a sticker on the handle bar by M/C that stated to use Dot3. ...
Interesting. The FSM says "Use DOT 5 brake fluid only". Yes, please show us the pic.
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Old 11th August 2012
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Mick I'm not good at pictures but maybe you can make it out.

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so in 30 minutes of riding, are you using the brake much? stop and go, or just down the road?

if the brakes work normally in that 30 minutes, then chances are that it's air in the system is small to non existent. You should notice that from the get go- but its easy enough to rebleed the system so go ahead and do that- and just maybe thats all it is.

if lines were routed the same, then that (heat on lines) shouldn't be the cause either.

I'd look to the mechanical parts of the brakes- rotors, pads, calipers
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