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  #1  
Old 3rd May 2018
Flam Flam is offline
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Default First year evo 1986 ignition module

Hi I’m still in VOES mode ffs
Is it common for first year EVO ignition Modules to be faulty
Or are they fairly bullet proof
And how bullet proof is the VOES unit
Thanks
J
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  #2  
Old 4th May 2018
IXL2Relax's Avatar
IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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OK - Reread your previous thread: http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2066354
Your original complaint was: "ive had issues with it being lean and a stumble off idle"

You can check the VOES operation - remove it from the bike (or simply disconnect the hose and wire connector) - connect a short piece of hose to the vacuum connector and connect a meter (on ohms) to the two wire connections...

The meter shoud read infinity until you suck on the hose to create a vacuum - then it should switch closed, showing 0-ohms...

The switch point can be changed but should not be necessary on a stock model...

One wire (either) of the VOES goes to ground while the other connects to the Violet wire of the ignition module - Have you checked that connection to be sure it is right? Metered it?

Put a meter on the VOES wires while it is connected on the bike - With the engine idling, are the switch contacts closed?


The external ignition modules are fairly hardy - like anything else, it can fail... If the bike runs, it is not likely to be a failed ignition module...


Back to the original problem "ive had issues with it being lean and a stumble off idle"

Is the 'andrews performance accelerator pump' working correctly?

Check the spark on both spark plugs - Are you getting a good strong spark?
Have you set the timing?

Edster suggested you might need to richen the Pilot Jet...

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  #3  
Old 4th May 2018
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Mine failed. The bike was running, but it ran like shit for a period of time when started... rough, backfireing, didn't rev and so..than like it would be switched something it started to run corectly...
There were also physical signs like melting cone sensor and module...
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  #4  
Old 4th May 2018
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Hmmm. 2018 - 1986 = 32 years outdoors in the wind, rain, snow, whatever.

That sounds pretty bullet proof to me even it broke recently.
I'd replace it and call it a day.

I still have the original 1983 electronic ignition and voes switch on my wifes ironhead .
If it broke.

I definitely would not consider that

Quote:
ignition Modules to be faulty
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  #5  
Old 4th May 2018
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less bells & whistles usually = longer life. replaced the points on my 74 ch in 75 after totaling out(took the front end off a 72 impala) with compu-fire and still kicking in 18 with 175K on the clock.
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Old 14th May 2018
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Quote:
Edster suggested you might need to richen the Pilot Jet...
We did that as a rule in the 1980s on many stock Sporty and big twin Keihins, mine of course included. We went the next numbered drill size larger than the shank which fit the hole in the low speed jet. (#60 through #80 drill bit sets are cheaper than jets and convenient to have around.)

We also aimed the accel pump nozzle so the squirt was centered on the bore. It's a press fit so easy to turn. Check aim before pulling the bowl then turn to suit. This is a good time to install Allen head bowl screws which are much more convenient to pull in the future vs. chasing JIS screws (they are NOT Phillips!) around the shop.

We did Japanese bikes too. The factory EPA compliance method across the board at that time was lean jetting and the low speed jet greatly influences midrange torque. Richening makes for easier cold starting too.

The easy way to drill a jet is clamp your drill bit in a pair of visegrips, then rotate the jet between thumb and forefinger using gentle pressure until the bit breaks through. Then without rotating the jet stroke it up and down a few times to debur the hole.

I agree with swapping ignitions. 1986 is ancient history. I don't consider VOES a problem as they are easy to check, but they ain't mandatory so delete if you wish.
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  #7  
Old 22nd May 2018
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Hi did a bit of damage to my hands just getting back into the sportster
Re the voes because originally the PO of the bike removed the spigot and blocked the Outlet from The carb I had to clean out the the blocked voes system and redrill and tap a new outlet now the new spigot has a larger I.D. than the original would that cause the voes vaccum to work incorrectly ?

And Should the ignition module have issues any recommendations on replacement
Thanks
J
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  #8  
Old 22nd May 2018
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Not if I'm understanding you right. Voes works off vacuum, not volume. You can make the voes work with a vacuum pump or your mouth (by sucking on it) as long as you don't have a leak.

Sounds like a lot of fun your having though.
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  #9  
Old 22nd May 2018
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Yep - No issue with the vacuum line...

The ignition module on the 1100 models was the same as the 883 models - they used the G-curves... The first year part number for both the 883 & 1100 was 32410-86 - G-curves - 6500rpm limit - and the module was hard-wired into the rest of the system...

The latest HD module for the '86 1100 is listed as 32410-91B - still using the G-curves... but the 1991-1993 modules had a 7-pin connector on the end... Same wiring, but with a connector for easy replacement...

Then, the 1994-1995 models used the same part number with a -94 suffix - still the G-curves - but those modules had an 8-pin connector, even though there were only 7 active wires connected...

So, if you don't mind cutting off the connector on the module, or adding a compatible connector to your existing harness, you can actually use any of these modules with the G-curve... They would all start with 32410-86 or later suffix (do not use a module with an earlier suffix)...

I have no idea whether the 1200 modules would be too much different to use with the 1100 motor - but the 1200 modules definitely used different timing curves...

The scremin' eagle performance modules were listed as compatible back to 1988 (the 1200 models) but not back to '86 or '87...

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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 22nd May 2018 at 02:41..
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