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  #21  
Old 30th May 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slamtry View Post
So when the cylinders are bored out to 1200, the heads remain untouched?
If you used dished pistons - (Flat top pistons match up to 1200 heads)

Typically, the least expensive upgrade is to bore the cylinders for dished 1200 pistons and put 883 heads back on... The dish in the piston aligns with the 883 combustion chamber to create the 1200cc volume with a bit of squish around the edges - A lot of 883->1200 conversions were done just that way...


Big Picture of Dished Wiseco Piston


We can't tell from here - so do you know what pistons were used? Did you buy 1200 heads? Did you have head work done to the 883 heads?

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  #22  
Old 30th May 2018
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The Basics of Converting an 883
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  #23  
Old 31st May 2018
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I'm 99% sure I used the dished pistons, bought from a company called Wiseco, IIRC. It was ten years ago, and a lot of water has passed under bridge since then but that is what I remember. Very much doubt I have any records, but I will take a look. So it sounds like what I am going to need is just the forward head from an 883. Or do I need to replace them both together for some reason?
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  #24  
Old 31st May 2018
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No, you can replace just one.
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  #25  
Old 31st May 2018
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Might it be weldable? I have heard people advance the notion that a welded crack is just as strong as the original metal and I am sure I can find someone to weld it for less than a new head.
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  #26  
Old 31st May 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TT60 View Post
Sound like the front head that mounts to the bracket then bolts to the frame.

Remove the bolt and I bet you can use a longer bolt that will thread deeper into that boss. For some reason they use stubby bolts I guess to save money but a longer one will thread into the head where there's more material.

I think this could be dangerous. It could cause more damage. That bolt hole doesn't have a lot of extra space. You could easily separate the crack more by using a larger bolt.
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  #27  
Old 31st May 2018
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I suppose I could simply unbolt it to see how long the bolt is and see whether it extends past the crack. If it does not I could perhaps just gently see if there is enough room for a bolt a few threads longer.
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Old 1st June 2018
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aluminum is sometimes a tough dog repair. the weld material is harder than the base and can create stress along the fused metal and thus cracks again. find a shop that has a good success rate.
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Old 1st June 2018
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What's your options, new head, welding ?

I went with a longer bolt on mine cause I didn't like that 1/2" of thread due to all the drag racing over the years. Below is the bolt I use and the threaded rod with the tape shows how deep the threads go. As long as you don't bottom out the hole you should be good.

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  #30  
Old 24th June 2018
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Well I unbolted it and found that there were indeed a few threads worth of extra length in the hole. I just put a little red loctite on a new and slightly longer bolt and tightened it up. It has snugged up the cracked part to the head so you can not really even see there was a crack there at all. At this point I propose to ignore it for ever.
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