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3rd February 2022
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Senior Chief Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 996 Sportster/Buell Model: xlch Sportster/Buell Year: 1971 Sportster/Buell Model #2: xlh Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1974 Other Motorcycle Model: xl1200cp Other Motorcycle Year: 2011
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DR DICK..... understood, I get it now. I hadn't run across the term "reaction tool" before. Thank you for educating me.
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5th February 2022
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Master Custom Bike Builder
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Paradise
Posts: 3,007 Sportster/Buell Model: xlch Sportster/Buell Year: 1977 Other Motorcycle Model: BMW K-1200/GT Other Motorcycle Year: 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy2175m4
I'd try it cold first with a breaker bar, I dont think that red loctite has a ghost of a chance against a breaker bar.
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You would be WRONG on that....when the manufacturer tells you to heat to 125F....heed what he says
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I could be wrong....I'll ask the wife....she ALWAYS knows when I'm wrong......
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5th February 2022
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Flat Track Racer
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: People's Republic of Kalifornia
Posts: 235 Sportster/Buell Model: Ironhead XLS Sportster/Buell Year: 1979 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLS Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1981 Other Motorcycle Model: Suzuki Norton BMW Yamaha Other Motorcycle Year: 70's
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OK so I use an impact to break free the primary nut on the crank and the clutch, so I guess I am ok then ?
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Welcome back my friends to the show that never ends!
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5th February 2022
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sunshine Coast
Posts: 7,998 Sportster/Buell Model: XLB, XLCH, Sporton Sportster/Buell Year: 1962 Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLCH Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1966 Other Motorcycle Model: XLCH (Another one) Other Motorcycle Year: 1966
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Yup. Now worries with either of them.
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"I know only too well the evil that I propose. But my inclinations get the better of me."
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7th February 2022
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Chief Harley Engineer
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 560 Sportster/Buell Model: XLS 1000 Sportster/Buell Year: 1979 Other Motorcycle Model: CB750 Other Motorcycle Year: 1995
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It can be argued that using an impact tool to LOOSEN most fasteners is SAFER than using a wrench.
An impact delivers only pure torque (aka a couple or a moment) to the fastener, in the axis of the fastener. That moment is what you need to get things unscrewed.
A wrench applies a moment AND a force to the fastener. Say you have a 1 foot long wrench. To generate a 100 lb-ft moment on the fastener you have to apply 100 lbs 1 foot away from the axis of the fastener. However, your 100 lbs of force on the wrench has to have an equal and opposite force from somewhere so the fastener now has 100 lbs of force directed at it perpendicular to its axis.
That side-force on the fastener can sometimes spell the difference between the torque/moment loosening the fastener vs. the fastener just getting sheared off. Think about getting your rusty lug nuts off your car with the crummy OE "L" shaped lug wrench/tire iron vs. using a 4-way wrench. The L wrench is basically designed to shear studs off. Two hands on a 4-way create pure torque, like an impact.
Bonus round: The longer your wrench (moment arm), the less force you have to apply to achieve any given torque, and the LESS likely you are to shear off a fastener. To use the earlier example, move to a 3 foot wrench with 33 lbs force and your fastener will still see 100 lb-ft, but now it only sees 33 lbs side force. Use an infinitely long wrench and you'll apply no side force.
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1979 XLS, '76 Keihin butterfly carb, Ultima ignition, Andrews C ratio gears
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7th February 2022
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XL FORUM TEAM MEMBER
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: On a farm
Posts: 6,928 Sportster/Buell Model: XL77.2R Sportster/Buell Year: 2006
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The impact wrench is not recommended because of some left threaded bolt. With a bar, you'll figure it out but with the impact you'll just shear the bolt.
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