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  #11  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Hippysmack Hippysmack is offline
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Companies make money by showing you the worst and offering solutions.
I don't believe in the horseshoe tube for everyone.
It works for some but no others, same as everything else.
I've done a lot of research on the subject and most of it is compiled in these pages.
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...:ref:engmech05
There is a lot of information there if you get a chance to do some reading.

In turn, I'll show some worst.
This is what CAN happen if you plumb the hoses down and add a filter on the end.


With the horseshoe tube mounted high and only one end with a vent line at the banjo bolt, condensation and oil can emulsify in the non-vented end.
This leaves muck at the end with no hose.




So you see, there is no way to guarantee you'll have no problems no matter where you vent the engine.
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  #12  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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60Gunner 60Gunner is offline
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Hammer's dynos have also shown an increase in power across the entire rpm range when routing it out of the intake. Small but a consistent increase nonetheless.
There's no legitimate reason for keeping it there that's for sure and it does cause buildup to a lesser or greater extent depending on other factors but a buildup nonetheless.
Look at the crap coming out. Now do you really want that crap diluting your intake charge? How can it not be bad?
The only thing being overstated/exaggerated is the damage it causes the enviroment.
Take away the ease of routing it to the intake and there's no reason to be breathing from the heads period. Back to the cam chest where it use to be before all this epa nonsense started. No more mess at all. No need for horseshoe tubes or hoses dangling off the side of the motor.
That's all I have to say. Carry on.
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  #13  
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True. And looking at the dyno sheet, there (edit: is an increase) as Aaron said.
But a small increase for sure.
The key I believe is ring condition and maintenance of breather valves.

edit:
I'll add that the MoCo held out as long as they could on EPA regs.
There are several 'changes' that were made during the AMF years that were obvious to me as for show.
But enforcement wasn't that stringent back then either.

I'd say in regards to where you vent the breathing system, do what you feel you should.
Just don't do it based on someone scaring you into it.

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shanneba shanneba is offline
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Back a few years ago, F1 teams were burning the crankcase gases and motor oil for an increase in power. They used an ECU controlled solenoid to the intake.

They had to careful as they could only burn just under a liter of oil per 100 km run.

The video explaining the way it worked has been marked private but a couple of articles mentioning it are still on the web.
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I remember that and dangit, that was on my list to look into further and got sidetreacked.
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I keep loosing all my lists of things to do
Here is a link about the F1 engines:
https://www.roadandtrack.com/motorsp...ke-more-power/
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Ok, so they have two methods of introducing oil into the chambers.

One method involves regulating crankcase pressure using system scavenger pumps of their dry-sump lubrication systems, which allows oil around the piston and into the chamber.

I'd like to find out more on how they 'regulate' CC pressure to allow oil in the chambers.

The other involves an ECU-controlled solenoid that lets crankcase pressure escape into the engine's intake system.

Also interested to find injection rates.
But I usually come to the conclusion that what's right for race engines doesn't always apply on the street.
Those engines get rebuilt much sooner than street engines.
I'll see if I can find out more about it.
Wonder why you have to have permission to view the video?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanneba View Post
I keep loosing all my lists of things to do
Here is a link about the F1 engines:
https://www.roadandtrack.com/motorsp...ke-more-power/
thanks for sharing
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This is the mod I used for my 2005 Sporty because it was the cheapest and easiest to do.
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...ref:engmech05a
The only negative for me is having to put a small piece of paper towel under the "drip" hose after a ride to keep my garage floor clean. The condensation eventually forms inside the tube and lets one or two teardrop size drips come out after a few hours. My air filter stays clean for a much longer period and it stays dry.
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