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  #31  
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Roane Roane is offline
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Thank you. Since I only have momentary buttons handy, could I put an old on off switch in the momentary line to see if it works or maybe bypass the kill untill I get a replacement?

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  #32  
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It should be a simple matter to use your multimeter to see if the switch is working OR NOT... Continuing to change parts without doing the tests is NOT a good way to get to the goal - If you test the parts & test your connections, then you actually KNOW what is or is not happening...

By changing parts without testing, you've been 'shooting in the dark' hoping to hit something - but by testing, we can 'turn on the light' and actually see what we are shooting at...


Do this simple testing on the KILL Switch wires:

Put your meter on the OHMs scale - Disconnect Connector J4, put one meter lead on Pin3(Grey) and the other meter lead on Pin6(WHITE) - Then...

1) When the KILL Sw is in KILL, the meter ohms should be infinity (we don't want to pass any power)
2) When the KILL Sw is in RUN, the meter ohms should be near -zero- (we want power to pass thru)

Do this multiple times & make sure the switch works each time

You can do the same testing with the Start Button by using Pin3(Grey) (with the KILL Sw on RUN) and Pin5(BLACK) to verify that it is working... Same test -
1) NOT Pressing the Start Button the meter should read infinity
2) PRESSING the Start Button, the meter should read near -zero-.

Then you know whether those switches are working correctly... If not, then carefully check your connections - ONLY as a last resort, when all testing indicates a bad part, should you be swapping something out...


Also test the J4-Pin4 ground connection
- With the meter still in OHMs scale, place one lead on Pin4(BLACK) - Place the other lead on the NEGATIVE Battery Terminal - The meter should read near -zero-


You can do similar testing on the Keyswitch at Connector J5...

Put your meter on the OHMs scale - Disconnect Connector J5, put one meter lead on Pin14(RED) and the other meter lead on Pin15(RED/BlackStripe) - Then...

1) When the Keyswitch is OFF, the meter ohms should be infinity (we don't want to pass any power)
2) When the Keyswitch is ON, the meter ohms should be near -zero- (we want power to pass thru)

Do this multiple times & make sure the switch works each time

Then you know whether this switch is working correctly... If not, then carefully check your connections...


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ETA - I made a wrong interpretation - so I Deleted the text here...

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  #34  
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Thanks. I'll retest all of them and also do the ignition key switch. If it is the kill switch, could I bipass or put another kill temporarily in that line untill I get a new button?

On the coil, isn't that white wire the one I'm splicing to both the kill and start buttons? That line runs to the module and then there's a different line out of the module to the positive side of the coil. I think I wired that on the correct side of the coil.

Screenshot_20191208-114727.jpg

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roane View Post
Thanks. I'll retest all of them and also do the ignition key switch. If it is the kill switch, could I bipass or put another kill temporarily in that line untill I get a new button?

On the coil, isn't that white wire the one I'm splicing to both the kill and start buttons? That line runs to the module and then there's a different line out of the module to the positive side of the coil. I think I wired that on the correct side of the coil.
YES - You can simply put a jumper across where the KILL Switch would be - You'll just have to turn off the Keyswitch to stop the engine... That would mean Jumper J4-Pin3 to both J4-Pin6 and from J4-Pin3 to the feed side of the Start Switch...

And also YES - You are correct about the COIL+ wire coming from Connector J5-Pin6 - Presumably responding to the KILL Switch... (so I changed the diagram back to the previous version - thanks)...


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  #36  
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So, success (although I need to clear a short in my front brake handlebar connection)! I really owe you a few beers on this. Can't thank you enough for the help.

It started right up after a little hiccup and all switches work. I was worried about a high pitched whiney sound as the starter tried to turn everything over at first but it stopped once I started it and didn't happen again.



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