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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #161  
Old 18th September 2021
RicThompson RicThompson is offline
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I can't begin to remember how many years I used plastic milk crates to work on bikes. I have a floor jack now. An actual lift would be way too professional for me. Make me think I was employed again. lol
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  #162  
Old 18th September 2021
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Never even thought of milk crates. They're 12 in high though. I scavenged some cinder blocks from a dump a month ago. That will get me up 16" and be easier to go straight in with the trans while sitting down comfortably.

I bought some big screw eyes for the ceiling and next need some Harbor Freight tie straps to keep the bike from tipping off the blocks. The big jack I have lifts with 1/2" or so to spare, so that will work.

Right now the car is in the shop for the past week needing an A/C pump. I'd simply bypass it but they can't find a belt short enough. Just the pump alone is $850 for a hoopy Scion. A blown A/C pump clutch bearing will disable the car from even starting and make a loud as hell howl before it gives up. I could feel the vibration through the floorboards and steering wheel. When the bearing locks up it spins on the nose cone of the pump, wrecking it. It puts enough force on the belt to stall the motor.

My wife is really good about me spending money on the Sportster because she loves riding. It's me that is noogy about it.

Also need a new computer. A new artesian well pump would be nice. $3600. It still works but I don't feel we should rely on it at it's age. Probably will spend money on the bike before the well pump
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  #163  
Old 19th September 2021
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Never even thought of milk crates. They're 12 in high though. I scavenged some cinder blocks from a dump a month ago. That will get me up 16" and be easier to go straight in with the trans while sitting down comfortably.

I bought some big screw eyes for the ceiling and next need some Harbor Freight tie straps to keep the bike from tipping off the blocks. The big jack I have lifts with 1/2" or so to spare, so that will work.

Right now the car is in the shop for the past week needing an A/C pump. I'd simply bypass it but they can't find a belt short enough. Just the pump alone is $850 for a hoopy Scion. A blown A/C pump clutch bearing will disable the car from even starting and make a loud as hell howl before it gives up. I could feel the vibration through the floorboards and steering wheel. When the bearing locks up it spins on the nose cone of the pump, wrecking it. It puts enough force on the belt to stall the motor.

My wife is really good about me spending money on the Sportster because she loves riding. It's me that is noogy about it.

Also need a new computer. A new artesian well pump would be nice. $3600. It still works but I don't feel we should rely on it at it's age. Probably will spend money on the bike before the well pump
I can't remember the last time I even saw a cinder block. Probably back in the early 50's. Nobody uses them these days because they break too easy compared to concrete blocks. Note: if you really do have cinder blocks, do not use them to support anything that you plan to get under because they will break and leave you pinned under the bike.
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  #164  
Old 21st September 2021
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I can't remember the last time I even saw a cinder block. Probably back in the early 50's. Nobody uses them these days because they break too easy compared to concrete blocks. Note: if you really do have cinder blocks, do not use them to support anything that you plan to get under because they will break and leave you pinned under the bike.
Thanks I checked them. They are concrete. You can tell by weighing them. Cinder is 28 lbs and concrete is 40 lbs.

My Dad always called them cinder blocks growing up, so that's why I called them that.
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  #165  
Old 24th September 2021
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Thanks I checked them. They are concrete. You can tell by weighing them. Cinder is 28 lbs and concrete is 40 lbs.

My Dad always called them cinder blocks growing up, so that's why I called them that.
Yes, they were a dark specked charcoal gray color and very light (as a kid I liked carrying them better than concrete ones). Your dad was most likely around when they still existed. They were never structural, they were always for landscaping or building sheds for animals as I remember.
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  #166  
Old 2 Days Ago
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If Dr Dick reads this, maybe he will let us know what it is about ball bearings that is desirable.

this is kind of difficult to explain but i will do my best.


this is common, focusing on the bearing type rather than the system that it's installed in.


Headshake doesn't come from loose or tight neck bearings on 81<.

It's pretty rare on 79 to 81 because of the swing arm is so much stiffer.
Traditionally proven many times over the head shake comes from the rear to bike, not the front.
That being what it is let's ignore the inability of the hd chassis to keep the tire contact paches under control and just go through bearing question.

In a perfect world the two bores in the frame neck would be perfectly aligned.
In which two perfectly manufactured outer bearings would be inserted.
then there would be an axle (or stem if you will) that carry the inner bearings perfectly aligned on its centerline.
You put these two things together and your world is happy.

The reality is hd really didn't align the two bores.
Instead they use the bottom bearing as Ground Zero.
then they made a compensating coupling.
This coupling resided at the top bearing interface.

in order for this misalignment to be compensated for a spherical coupling is used at the upper bearing cone and the bearing adjusting nut.

This this coupling is not be recreated correctly with the timkin setup.
that Leads do a disconnect from the handlebars to the road.

The connection from your hands, feet, and ass to the road is extremely important on a motorcycle.
That and your tires feedback is what keeps you alive.

any drag or salt racer will tell:
"even if I welded the triple trees solid to the frame this bike would still shake on deceleration".

its not a bearing issue when it comes to unwanted contact patch forces.
its harmonics backfed ino the structure.
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  #167  
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Holy cow thanks!

I've got new swing arm bearings installed (correctly) too.

Hopefully it'll go in a straight line.
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  #168  
Old 16 Hours Ago
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Yes. Thanks. I see your point about ball bearings being able to compensate better for misaligned outer races.

I had forgotten this post, so I had to go back to see what we were talking about. ;-)

I did know back then that the rear is a good source for the shake. I put new swing arm bushings (I think they are bushings, this was about 40 years ago) on that bike and replaced both sets of wheel bearings. Spent a long time measuring and getting everything as aligned as possible. It still had the harmonic shake at around 50 - 55 MPH accelerating and decelerating that it came with from the factory but the big headshake never returned. I still have the 78 Honda, but it hasn't been ridden since 08.

Thanks for the info, it makes a lot of sense.
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