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  #191  
Old 11th July 2019
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brucstoudt brucstoudt is offline
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well your welcome.ijust didn't want you to sound like an idiot in future conversations.
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72 1000cc barrels and heads, s&s 41/2'' flywheels, sifton cams, s&s super B w/ zippers thunderjet w/yost powertube, andrews gears,and shafts, competition engineering kevlar wet or dry clutch, 72 oil pump, morris magneto w/auto advance and single fire module, cycle electric generator w/electronic regulator,73 cu.in.
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  #192  
Old 8th September 2019
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So the project has been slow going, but I finally have the engine out of the frame.

it sat for a good while, slowly emptying the remaining oil onto the garage floor. a few days back, i looked at it and sat for a little bit, then stripped off the remaining pieces to be able to remove the engine. took off the generator, oil tank, footpegs and shifter, then the engine mounting bolts. the engine was a bit heavy still, but came out easy enough.

the clutch/primary components are still intact, which will be a bit of a hassle to remove, now. in the past, i made a set of aluminum bars to brace between the clutch and the crank sprockets, to lock them together so i could remove the clutch nut and the crank nut. i'll likely make another set of bars to do that, as well as drilling a piece of angle iron to be able to compress the clutch springs with the cover bolt holes.

i think the Connecting rods (especially the rear, where the piston was damaged) is chewed up and needs replaced. the rods also have some lateral play, in the direction of the crankshaft. need to look up specs for how much is to much. also will field suggestions on whether rebuilding or replacing or both is the better option for flywheels and bottom end components.

perhaps thinking of outsourcing the engine rebuilding, but the better part of me is thinking i can do it all in house. the outsourcing-inclined part of my brain is wary of the special tools or stands or other parts that will be necessary to check all the parts before reinstalling them.
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  #193  
Old 27th September 2019
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Any help on a homemade tool or something to help pull the pinion gear off the crank? I have the cams out, and need to remove the clutch basket and the crank sprocket as well. I have a primary chain/sprocket jamming block for the primary side.
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  #194  
Old 27th September 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CincinnatiKid View Post
Any help on a homemade tool or something to help pull the pinion gear off the crank? I have the cams out, and need to remove the clutch basket and the crank sprocket as well. I have a primary chain/sprocket jamming block for the primary side.
Post number 124:
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread...=395586&page=7
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  #195  
Old 27th September 2019
needspeed needspeed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fridge View Post
I haven't seen that post before. A good idea but you may not have to thin the jaws.

As shown a small 2 claw puller should do it. If the pump is out possibly a 3 claw. Obviously it needs to be the right size.

It's difficult to get most pullers behind the pinion gear. The oil pump drive gear behind it is a slip fit on the shaft and it's usually easier to get the puller behind that and then both gears will pull off together. Warming the gear a bit may help.

Don't do anything that will damage the inside taper at the end of the shaft or it will be hard to true the crank.
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  #196  
Old 28th September 2019
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thx ya.

in regards to lower end bearings... my typical test on bearings is the quick n' dirty "does it feel like theres grit in there if i turn it with my hand". is it just prudent to replace all bottom end bearings just because i'm down there?


also, i'm curious about cosmetics, now that i have all the parts apart.
has anyone dealt with vapor blasting? i have a simple soda blasting setup that does a pretty good job but i have seen vapor blasting results that are out of this world. any secret tips or suggestions for making the cases and jugs and heads really look like a million bucks? don't really wanna paint the cylinders or anything.

also!
i've had a leak on my primary cover since rebuilding the bike, seems like its because someone dumped the bike and the left footpeg came up into the case and bent/cracked it a bit. the case and the cover got a bit mis-aligned, in addition to one of the fasteners being chewed up. if i took the parts to a machine shop, and had them re-mate them, seems like it would be fine. the clutch adjustment would be fine, and nothing else mates into the case cover. ok cool thanks. i guess i answered that one on my own.
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  #197  
Old 28th September 2019
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KId, alls I can tell ya is that after it's all said and done, you're out riding the Iron Steed and after oh say, 3000 miles they go out, then it's an all too doo list again.
Of course by then the rebuild would be a "piece of cake".

F W I W
me, I take functionality over fashion. I want my bikes to be reliable and trustworthy. An old graybeard told me onetime, "if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right the first time because you may not have the time nor the money to do it again"...........
I will say this, when you split the wheels, be prepared to have access to machine shops and the tools and if you ain't got it yet, get the FSM and the FPM for your bike.
With the knowledge, tools and still some parts available out in the world on these old beasts, it's "a piece of cake".
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  #198  
Old 29th September 2019
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i have the FSM, and your words are well heeded.
i'm with you on the reliability, and this is my first foray into the depths of an HD engine, and this forum is the best resource I have to ask questions. I wanted to do as much/all of this build as i can on my own, but in the interest of functionality and reliability, and tool costs and not taking shortcuts, i am considering sending out the bottom end to be re-done, and i can re-assemble the top.

I really love doing it on my own, I love the process and learning the intricacies of old machines. we all understand that these projects are independent of any economic considerations.... i'm not doing things myself to save money... i'm doing it to earn pride for myself. in that same vein, this project (as chronicled by this thread) has no deadline, and no urgency, outside of parts taking up space in the garage. I want to be patient and do it right the first time so that the bike can stay trouble-free for a long while.


ok long ramble over.
going to keep working on it slowly and source new bearings and con rod(s?), etc etc.
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