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ignition, timing, timing plate

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  #1  
Old 15th September 2019
T_worth T_worth is offline
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Default Maxed out timing plate

I have a 97’ 1200s with paunghco pipes and a super E carb. I’m trying to retard my timing because I was getting some pinging and when I shut down my bike, it’ll putter a few more times.

Spotting the 2 marks on the flywheel is difficult for me. My eyes just can’t adjust to the flywheel speed and timing light. But with some help from a friend, we retarded the timing but I am maxed out on the plate. I wonder if I could retard it a bit more. But either way, I’m concerned I shouldn’t be maxed out. The bike runs good, with better power, but is maxing out on the plate bad?
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  #2  
Old 16th September 2019
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Check the plugs. Full retard will foul them with soot.
You sure it's not old or low octane gas?
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  #3  
Old 16th September 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hippysmack View Post
Check the plugs. Full retard will foul them with soot.
You sure it's not old or low octane gas?

I know low octane can cause the pinging, but what about the sputtering after I hit the killswitch?
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Old 16th September 2019
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Sounds like a tuning issue.
Copied from an ironhead thread on dieseling (or run on):

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fe Head View Post
.....
It may however be predisposed to "Running ON " by having an overly hot cylinder/piston head due to many and varied causes.

Make absolutely sure your carburetor's throttle plate is fully closed when at idle. The engine should be able to run at idle quite well with no throttle if the idle jet is sized correctly and the air idle screw is set within the typical range.

If persistant after you have replaced the fluids, adjust the carburetor and set up the static timing the easiest way to eliminate the problem is to purge the engine of the excessive carbon build up.

After a short ride say 10 - 15 miles and with the engine at full operating temperature - set the throttle tensioner scew so the engine R.P.M.s are held at 2,000 to 2,500 rpm. Then with the air cleaner off and a spray bottle filled with deionized water ( same as your steam iron uses) start spaying the water into the air horn of the carburetor. This will immediately hydrolyse the excessive deposits of carbon and blow them along with the steam out the exhausts. Keep spraying until the black sooty exhaust is mostly white and steamy looking.

Perform this outside and wear safety goggles in case of a backfire(too much spray at once). It is a safe economical low tech high end way to remove the carbonized areas off the cylinder's and piston's heads and along the exhaust ports.

If you do this over a clean or paved driveway you will be able appreciate how much junk is being discharged. I would recommend you aim your exhausts towards a ditch or roughage area while paying attention to the wind's direction - away from you and your neighbour's clothes line is usually best.

Cheers;
edit:
If you scroll down to the bottom of the page in Google search box, type in 'run on' and there is lots of information on it.
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Old 16th September 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T_worth View Post
I have a 97’ 1200s
In relation to the slotted mounting holes, where you can rotate the ignition sensor plate, How close to the center of the slots was your TDC setting (before retarding to minimize pinging)?



This is from the Sportsterpedia section on Timing:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...dels_thru_2003




Moving the Cam Sensor Plate Clockwise (CW) will increase the Advance Before TDC. Moving the plate Counterclockwise (CCW) will retard (or reduce) the Advance Before TDC. Note that each timing mark on the plate (long-to-short) is equal to changing the ignition timing by 5°. Move the plate VERY LITTLE to make adjustments.
(see aswracing post#17 at http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=488663)

The Cam Sensor Plate can be rotated slightly to accomodate getting the timing mark in the center of the timing hole. You can also move the plate to change the base timing (thus moving the whole curve sets up or down in rpm range) by setting the 1000rpm timing to a few degrees more or less than the specified (20° BTDC) advance timing mark.

Adding more advance will increase the likelihood of pinging when the engine is hot and/or under heavy acceleration. It is not recommended to move the timing (from 20°BTDC) more than an absolute total of 10° either way. That's only two tick marks!


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Old 16th September 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fe Head View Post
.....
It may however be predisposed to "Running ON " by having an overly hot cylinder/piston head due to many and varied causes.

Make absolutely sure your carburetor's throttle plate is fully closed when at idle. The engine should be able to run at idle quite well with no throttle if the idle jet is sized correctly and the air idle screw is set within the typical range.
X2,

Running on is almost always from too much air, the throttle open too much or a leak in the intake tract. It’s not from timing, because the ignition is off.
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