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  #1  
Old 5th July 2019
99hugger 99hugger is offline
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Default turn key on, no power at battery. key off battery good. help

99 883 hugger with 1200 kit. As I pulled up at the house last night my lights dimmed and bike started to stall. Shut it off and lost all power, no lights or anything. Battery only read about 11 volts with key off. Turn key on and volts drop to 0.05. Put jumped cables on it and lights came on and it started. As soon as I pulled cables it did it all over again. Went out today and battery was back at 13v but turn key on and same thing. Cleaned up battery cables and checked wires and plugs to regulator.
Battery was just replaced along with ignition module, coil, and key switch couple weeks ago.
Please help me figure this out. I can't find anything like this in here
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  #2  
Old 5th July 2019
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Bad battery.
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Old 5th July 2019
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If you are measuring voltage right at the battery terminals with these results, take the battery back to where you bought it - have them load test it - Likely to fail - get a new battery...

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  #4  
Old 6th July 2019
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That happened to my original battery.

Bad internal connection at the post. (search internet for how AGM batteries are constructed)

After I got a new battery, I drilled and tapped the post about an inch deep and added a bolt. Then battery was good again.
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  #5  
Old 6th July 2019
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I went through a lot to get my '92 to start reliably. First thing, as has been suggested is to check the battery with a load tester. If you can't get it tested then I'd suggest buying a new Motobatt - best batteries in the world imho.

See how it responds to a new battery and in the meantime double-check both battery cables. Pull on them hard to be sure they're secure. Make sure the ground on the frame is clean and the cable is securely attached to it. If it's not a bad battery it's probably a bad ground in the ignition and/or charging circuit.

My guess is a new battery will solve your trouble but if not keep posting. Guys here helped me out tremendously and if sporsterdoc is still around he can suggest a number of troubleshooting steps, as will others. Eventually you'll find the weak link(s).

Let us know how it goes.
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Old 6th July 2019
99hugger 99hugger is offline
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Default

Thank you for the replies guys. Unfortunately I don't have the $ for a new battery today. I'll try and find somebody that can load test it. Strange thing is even with jumper cables directly from battery cables to truck battery it still won't turn over, just clicks, but does actually have power so yeah my battery is bad. Start truck and it will start also. I just find it weird that big battery won't start the bike. Is that just because of the long cables and their connections? In the meantime can someone give me the resistance and voltage specs for the charging system. And is there a way to know if the starter sylonoid is going bad? I just wanna know what keeps killing batteries.
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Old 6th July 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99hugger View Post
Thank you for the replies guys. Unfortunately I don't have the $ for a new battery today. I'll try and find somebody that can load test it. Strange thing is even with jumper cables directly from battery cables to truck battery it still won't turn over, just clicks, but does actually have power so yeah my battery is bad. Start truck and it will start also. I just find it weird that big battery won't start the bike. Is that just because of the long cables and their connections? In the meantime can someone give me the resistance and voltage specs for the charging system. And is there a way to know if the starter sylonoid is going bad? I just wanna know what keeps killing batteries.
On the bike you should try connect the positive to the battery and negative to ground, like to the engine or to some big bolt on the frame (and not to the battery's negative). Never directly connect battery to battery, since that 'bad battery' can be broken severely and won't possibly let enough power through. And could be dangerous. A dead battery produces hydrogen gas. If the final negative connection is made on the negative battery post and a spark is created the battery can explode. That’s why they suggest the final negative connection be made somewhere away from the battery.

Always use thick enough jumper cables, the smaller the cable, the more resistance. They will get hot when too small.

The voltage regulator on my '92 delivers around 13.5V to the battery. If it's less replace it, if it's more than 15V it will damage any battery. It should be a stable voltage delivery at any rpm.

Last edited by NLXL; 6th July 2019 at 19:08.. Reason: added cabling
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Old 6th July 2019
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If you have around 12 volts with key off when measured right at the battery terminals and then it drops to 1 volt or less just by turning the key on there is a major failure inside the battery.

I had the exact same thing happen this week on my old Farmall tractor! Started fine and drove out in the yard to load up some brush turned off engine. Ten minutes latter went to start and it was DOA!

Have also had the battery fail like that in my 1988 Sportster.

Reason you are not able to start by jumping from the truck is most likely a bad connection some where in the jumper cables.
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Old 6th July 2019
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http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1986193

If you have the time and patience to read - and you don't know this stuff already - this thread has loads of good electrical info about our bikes. It helped me quite a bit.
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Old 7th July 2019
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Sportsterpedia - Check Your Battery Cables

Sportsterpedia - Check your Voltages

Sportsterpedia - Check your Grounds

Sportsterpedia - Check your Alternator/Stator

Sportsterpedia - Check your Starter & Solenoid Assembly (Tests)



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