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  #1  
Old 1 Week Ago
class of 82 class of 82 is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: sportster xlh
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Default 82 sporty crank pin

well not the news I wanted to here. hauled it up to Drag Stews in Belleview Fl.

gave it a going over/bore scope and seems the crank pin is knocking on the 82 sporty.

so after debating with Stew a little on buying another used bike or investing in what I have.. I am going to invest in the 82 sporty. been riding it since 15' so

so hauled it home and start the R&R of the engine for a complete rebuild.

now is the time to do upgrades for longevity/reliability/performance.

what is the wish list of parts and mods that can be done at this time?

pistons/rods?
lifter blocks?
trap door?
shafts gears?

not looking to stroke it or race it so 61 inches with a over bore is on the hit list to start. then something about billet trap door/lifter blocks??

Is 2500-3500 a realistic budget to completely rebuild and upgrade it??

that's about what I figure it will take to buy another bike anytime soon so...

2-3 months down time waiting on engine rebuild will let me prep/paint the frame/tins & clean polish stuff up while I am waiting.

here in Fl. dog days of summer are upon us so good time to be down and get it back just in time for fall riding weather.

TIA for advice & suggestions

82
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  #2  
Old 1 Week Ago
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There is no way to estimate the costs. You just spend money till it's done.

The costs vary depending on the level and quality of parts and outside services performed, how much of the work you can do yourself, and the level of internal wear/destruction.

Don't forget to clean the oil tank. If the crank has ate it's self up that means small bits of very hard metal have migrated through the motor and imbedded themselves into any soft metal bearings and ruined every bearing in the motor.
The lifter blocks in particular take a beating, the pistons drag bits of metal up and down the cylinders. The lifter bodies are worn, and the lifter rollers are damaged. Every bearing race and shaft that bearings roll against are compromised. EVERYTHING. Throw away every oil hose and clean the oil tank again, solvent and bottle brush with an extended handle to get into all the corners. Rinse the tank until you are certain you have gotten all the metal out. Let the metal settle out of the solvent for a couple of days and you can reuse it to wash really dirty stuff.

Often the cause of crank failure is oil contamination with fuel, lack of oil changes combined with carb issues or other causes of incomplete combustion. Even though an 82 should have an oil filter the oil needs to be changed 2 or three times a year, even more if you ride every day. Big clunky air cooled motors dirty the oil quicky even tuned and running well.
The other source of trouble is oil temperature, if you are riding in temps over 80° For best results an oil cooler and you should be using an oil that is complementary to an air/oil cooled motor, not a water cooled motor.
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  #3  
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This was posted 3 hours ago in Your state
https://orlando.craigslist.org/mcy/d...589491850.html
Its a 80 frame, not 82 so there's haggling room.
engines 1977 till early 84 will work.
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I can tell you from experience not to skimp on the crank or rods. I am very hard on my bike so I can tell you it is possible to snap a pinion, I did.
First off get the engine out and tear it down. Do as much as you can yourself to save time and $$.
Once you get the crank out you can then assess the damage. don't forget to check the case for wear.
I am hoping you don't have a problem with the taper in the wheel from being loose. ( this happened to me which prompted my stroker build. )
While the crank is out check the rods for taper in the big end races , if torn that far down.

Just clean and inspect and repeat.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60weight View Post
This was posted 3 hours ago in Your state
https://orlando.craigslist.org/mcy/d...589491850.html
Its a 80 not 82, so there's haggling room.
engines 1977 till early 84 will work.
For $1600 I'd buy that just to have spares around, plus its a good looking bike, looks taken care of and mostly original.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dans_depot View Post
For $1600 I'd buy that just to have spares around, plus its a good looking bike, looks taken care of and mostly original.
The more I look at this bike, it seems a bit fishy.
80 frame,81 up engine or at least cam cover and sprocket cover.
Maybe this is why its so cheap...so beware.
https://orlando.craigslist.org/mcy/d...589491850.html
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Old 6 Days Ago
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that is very close by. I rather invest in my 82 and not start trouble shooting/spending cash to fix/change things on another one. I could not ride it as is.

but that would be a lot of used parts for 1600$
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Old 6 Days Ago
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no mod suggestions?

got to be some hot rod mods & pieces?

what's the skinny on billet pieces like trap doors, lifter blocks? is this race stuff or worth while on a street bike?

what about cams/valve train pieces?

stroking it the only thing done now days?

just trying to get a wish list going to see how big the first wheelbarrow of cash I need to get started filling the 1982 money pit.
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First off, rebuilding will probably work out the best/cheapest in the long run. Buying another bike may just bring you another host of expensive problems. who knows with a pig in a poke ?
Rebuilding an engine takes both time and money. Once you are down to the point of splitting the cases your going to spend a lot of cas even if you throw cheap Chinese/second hand parts in there. Don't do that.
Once the engine is rebuilt if you put it back as totally stock the bike is now worth no more than just before it lost the crank pin. No one pays more for a bike that has new parts in an engine. Seriously, they don't.
With the bottom end you have to weigh up the costs of the new parts plus the labor to split the wheels and rebuild them against the cost of a new rotating assembly.
I think this is why a ew RA appeals to so many people. If you have to buy parts like crank pins, maybe a shaft, pistons etc then looking at $1600 for a RA doesn't look so bad. Plus, now when you go to sell it the bike is "Special". S&S Stroker. goes in your ad. Plus you get the benefit of riding the thing which now has a bigger grin factor.
The Sporty gearbox and clutch are fine. People buy billet doors and Andrews gears for racing but not really necessary of a street engine. Unfortunatly the IH got a bad rep for blowing gearboxes many years ago but that really was a design fault on the 900's with the speedo drive setup that weakened the C/S boss area. Later 1000's don;t have that flaw.
If you spend money on the RA assembly now later on it's a lot easier to replace clutch transmission bits as the engine doesn't have to come out of the frame and the cases don't need to be split.
So you might do the bottom end this year and next year think about replacing those bits.
If you do decide to go for a stroker (they sell stock stroke too) stay at or under 4 1/2 inch.
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