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  #1  
Old 19th August 2018
ChicagoSlim ChicagoSlim is offline
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Default Starter circuit without relay

I have a 1979 Ironhead with electric start and I'm looking for some information.

My starter relay died and until I get it fixed I've been starting it with a wire from the positive side of the battery to the "small wire" terminal on the solenoid. This works but I want something more permanent. Additionally, I occasionally get an arc on the negative side of the battery when I start the bike.

I purchased a heavy duty starter button that I want to install. I have removed all of the relay wiring.

What is the best way to wire in the new starter button? Tap into a hot line, after a fuse, then to the button then to the solenoid?

I appreciate your comments.
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  #2  
Old 19th August 2018
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I occasionally get an arc on the negative side of the battery when I start the bike.

loose/corroded connection

I purchased a heavy duty starter button that I want to install. I have removed all of the relay wiring.

Why, properly wired it works just fine. You must retain the starters solenoid no matter what so all this super duty button is doing is supplying power to the starters solenoid that draws less than 15 amps
https://www.amazon.com/slp/push-butt...k7r82bshw5z8v5
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  #3  
Old 19th August 2018
ChicagoSlim ChicagoSlim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72 Ironhead XLH View Post
I occasionally get an arc on the negative side of the battery when I start the bike.

loose/corroded connection

I purchased a heavy duty starter button that I want to install. I have removed all of the relay wiring.

Why, properly wired it works just fine. You must retain the starters solenoid no matter what so all this super duty button is doing is supplying power to the starters solenoid that draws less than 15 amps
https://www.amazon.com/slp/push-butt...k7r82bshw5z8v5
So, in your opinion, I can wire from the positive side of the battery to the starter button to the starter solenoid with no problems? And the wire should go to the “small terminal” on the solenoid, correct?
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  #4  
Old 20th August 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChicagoSlim View Post
So, in your opinion, I can wire from the positive side of the battery to the starter button to the starter solenoid with no problems?
If you have the stock starter button switch installed, in my opinion, the answer to this question is "no".

The starter relay is there because the small start button switch (or the wires to it) in the handlebar can't handle the amount of current that needs to flow to the small post of the solenoid.

Normally, the start button switch feeds a small amount of current to the start relay, which feeds a larger amount of current to the starter solenoid, which feeds a huge amount of current to the starter motor. The start button switch, or the small wires going to that switch, will burn out soon if you don't include the start relay in the circuit.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ChicagoSlim View Post
And the wire should go to the “small terminal” on the solenoid, correct?
Yes, but it should come from the start relay, not the start button switch.


If you have a custom start switch of some kind that can handle the current flow, like I do on my '69, you can do what you're trying to do with no problems.
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  #5  
Old 20th August 2018
ChicagoSlim ChicagoSlim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellowstone Kelly View Post
If you have the stock starter button switch installed, in my opinion, the answer to this question is "no".

The starter relay is there because the small start button switch (or the wires to it) in the handlebar can't handle the amount of current that needs to flow to the small post of the solenoid.

Normally, the start button switch feeds a small amount of current to the start relay, which feeds a larger amount of current to the starter solenoid, which feeds a huge amount of current to the starter motor. The start button switch, or the small wires going to that switch, will burn out soon if you don't include the start relay in the circuit.




Yes, but it should come from the start relay, not the start button switch.


If you have a custom start switch of some kind that can handle the current flow, like I do on my '69, you can do what you're trying to do with no problems.
I do, it does and it will.

Thanks for your input.
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  #6  
Old 20th August 2018
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The Sportsterpedia has this information:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k:evo:engctl02

Note the following currents utilized in the various devices:
- 0.2amps pulled thru the Starter Switch (to the Starter Relay Coil)
- 20amps pulled thru the Starter Relay (to the Starter Solenoid Coil)
- 200amps pulled thru the Starter Solenoid Hi-Current Contacts
(to the Starter Motor when engaged with the Ring Gear)

and this section regarding what wire gauge is required for the current load used:
Wire Gauge & Current Loads
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:ref:elec01

A fuse in the circuit is needed to protect the wiring from a dead short that may pull much more current than the intended device. Should a short occur, the battery is capable of supplying many hundreds of AMPS of current, causing the wire to heat up, illuminate like a light bulb, and cause the bike to burst into flames... A fuse is a good idea...


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  #7  
Old 20th August 2018
ChicagoSlim ChicagoSlim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
The Sportsterpedia has this information:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k:evo:engctl02

Note the following currents utilized in the various devices:
- 0.2amps pulled thru the Starter Switch (to the Starter Relay Coil)
- 20amps pulled thru the Starter Relay (to the Starter Solenoid Coil)
- 200amps pulled thru the Starter Solenoid Hi-Current Contacts
(to the Starter Motor when engaged with the Ring Gear)

and this section regarding what wire gauge is required for the current load used:
Wire Gauge & Current Loads
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:ref:elec01

A fuse in the circuit is needed to protect the wiring from a dead short that may pull much more current than the intended device. Should a short occur, the battery is capable of supplying many hundreds of AMPS of current, causing the wire to heat up, illuminate like a light bulb, and cause the bike to burst into flames... A fuse is a good idea...


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Great info. Thank you.
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  #8  
Old 20th August 2018
JonesL JonesL is offline
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Here's the one I ended up running; https://www.ebay.com/itm/General-287...QAAOSw4HxZl0uu
Low profile and rated for 15amps. I still run a starter relay just to protect my investment.
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  #9  
Old 20th August 2018
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My 1972 uses a GM horn relay and it is still the original to that motor. They are waterproof sealed units ,non servicable and should last forever
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