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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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adjustment, clutch, clutch cable, clutch problems

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  #1  
Old 13th March 2012
stevedrum4578 stevedrum4578 is offline
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Default Clutch won't disengage

I performed a clutch adjustment and cable adjustment per the service manual and youtube vids. I still find it very hard to "find" neutral and once I do, even with the clutch lever fully pulled in, the clutch doesn't seem to fully disengage. it won;t shift to first easily. It "buzzes" like you are trying to fit two spinning gears into each other. Any advice? Also, when the engine is off and I am in 1st gear, when I pull the clutch lever, the bike will not roll like it does when in neutral.

2003 883C
Steve
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  #2  
Old 13th March 2012
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Check your fluid. Do the clutch adjustment again. I've had a few times when I think I did everything right, but it just doesn't work. I back it all out and do it again and it's all better.
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  #3  
Old 13th March 2012
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If this just started all the sudden,

It could be,
stock clutch spring plate coming apart (if the clutch pack is stock)
detent clip broken/detent plate issue
throwout bearing issue
Shifter pawl adjustment
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Old 13th March 2012
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how many miles?
its also possible to over tighten the cable when adjusting, ..
try backing off the cable adjustment 1 full turn at a time until you feel the clutch engage. then tweak it 1/4 turn at a time
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  #5  
Old 13th March 2012
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not to be mean,but are you doing the adjustments after the bike has been ridden or warmed up? The adjustments need to be made with the engine cold.

I too ran into this problem, my problem started because I changed out the levers and they were a aftermarket brand, and did not have the proper "geometry" or angle so the lever did not fully pull on the clutch cable I broke down and bought the HD ones and the clutch worked better after that.
Yea Sporty clutches can be finicky at times.
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  #6  
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Yes, the engine was cold. 58k miles. The previous owner installed an Energy One Peformance Clutch and EZ Clutch kit.

Ironhead1313 - how do I check the following? Is this a job for a mechanic or can a novice wrencher handle it?


detent clip broken/detent plate issue
throwout bearing issue
Shifter pawl adjustment
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  #7  
Old 13th March 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedrum4578 View Post
Yes, the engine was cold. 58k miles. The previous owner installed an Energy One Peformance Clutch and EZ Clutch kit.

Ironhead1313 - how do I check the following? Is this a job for a mechanic or can a novice wrencher handle it?


detent clip broken/detent plate issue
throwout bearing issue
Shifter pawl adjustment
Before you get into all that, are you sure that the adjustment is right? With the cable slack, you need to turn the adjuster screw clockwise until it is totally loose, then counter clockwise until you feel it touch up against the throwout bearing and pressure plate wants to be compressed, but do not go to the point it compresses. Then turn it 1/4 turn clockwise (back into the loose area). Then lock it down. Then the rest is done by adjusting the cable to give a small amount of free play at the lever.

After that, adjust the primary chain. I assume yours is adjustable from the under side of the primary case right? If so, go get the bike nice and hot, then come back, and while it is running in neutral, loosen the lock nut, and use an allen wrench to turn the adjusting screw out first, then back in slowly listening for it to start to whine slightly, play with that a bit until you are sure that you are at just the right spot for it to start to whyne, and then back it off 1/4 turn and while holding the allen screw, tighten the lock nut.

See if this brings it back before getting really into it, because this is usually simple or the spring plate as mentioned could be exploded, (the energy one kit can either use the spring plate, or it can have three extra plates and eliminate the spring plate). If you still have a spring plate in there then you need to scrap that thing even if it is OK right now. Because this is what happens...



If this has happened, it needs to be dealt with immediately, and after you pry all the destroyed plates and debris out you will need to carefully clean the splines on the basket and hub by only removing anything that is raised, and leaving anything else, because if it gets too "cleaned up" you will need to replace them and they get a bit pricey.
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Last edited by wedge; 21st March 2012 at 18:10..
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  #8  
Old 13th March 2012
stevedrum4578 stevedrum4578 is offline
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thanks wedge. i'm outta of here in an hour to go home and try this. wish me luck.
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  #9  
Old 13th March 2012
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Good luck, but bro, you don't need luck, you are gonna do just fine. If the problem is beyond this first step, you will still be able to deal with it assuming you have access to the tools you will need.
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  #10  
Old 13th March 2012
stevedrum4578 stevedrum4578 is offline
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tools aren't the problem. knowledge or lack there of is. thanks mate. i'm new to wrenching, so i guess i should expect this at first.
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