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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #31  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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brucstoudt brucstoudt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckthebeatertruck View Post
and wrote that, Ferrous.

Dr Dick was even the technical editor.

It was linked.

It went totally unnoticed.
are you talking about your '64 build on the AMCA site linked here? it didn't go unnoticed. i read the whole thing.i even thanked you for the link.i also made reference to it in my Dytch sleeper cylinders thread.
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Last edited by brucstoudt; 3 Weeks Ago at 22:41.. Reason: Dytch thread
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  #32  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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OK. So now I am still lost.

I went back again through this thread.

I can't see a link anywhere to a 64 build or anything else other than the one to a FSM.
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  #33  
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it's not in this thread,it was in his own thread http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2079148
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  #34  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicThompson View Post
Steve9 most of the parts that went into building my stroker were purchased used off of Ebay. Took less than a year start to finish.
Ric

That's not bad...I am pleasantly surprised

The '81 I picked up last year has a really fresh, slightly worked motor.

If it was in need I would have a great excuse. You never know though

I might start looking for something real cheap needing motor work.
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  #35  
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That was starting from nothing. Your 81 could be disassembled and modified in far less time especially if you pick up a rotating assembly, and pistons ahead of time. Don't worry about cylinder size. Used and aftermarket cylinders are cheap and easy to find.
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  #36  
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Hey Chuck, Kudos to you.

I'm old and forget a lot now. I did start to read that thread a long time ago. When I discovered I couldn't see the pics I stopped. AMCA membership makes sense if you can use it in some other way but being in Australia I can't see the value. (No pun intended)

But a better delve into it means I would heartily recommend it to anyone doing these things. Frankly, I've never seen a better write up of work on 900's and some interesting excursions.

Probably should be mandatory reading for anyone starting down a similar path.

I am curious as to how well your starter rollers work. I have had a couple sets of electric ones. They work fine on stock or mild engines and very useful for pumping oil up and comp tests. But not useful on cold race engines.

I have been meaning to design and make a crank starter for some time. A couple of my engines have the crank part installed but I haven't built the starter yet. Was going to buy one but that's not possible it seems.

Also, sending you a PM abut the L series inters.
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  #37  
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We did it on the amca site to promote membership, but also because it is an archived club site. In theory, it should be there in some form for a long time. Sites like this can go away any time. Look at classic American iron. It took a huge amount of time, plus a bunch of phone calls to write that thing up.

Membership comes with six issues of the club magazine, a huge free digital literature archive, and the opportunity to join a local chapter which then unlocks local rides and events. There is an active and growing chapter in Australia. Just saying. My photos are even pretty clear ;-)

The roller starters rock. I made two more sets and we had them at Davenport. But, my welds sucked and I'm adding an extra brace. On a stock bike, they don't even notice there's a bike on them. It's not until I put the 78" bike on there that they get a workout. I refined the mess to be lighter, but it still costs a mint to build them. Damn grinder is $125 alone.

Oh, and it was mom9r who gave me the magic formula if 30mph in 4th gear. At that wheel speed it does light anything.

Just like I didn't believe I could twist a kicker shaft in two until I did it, I also didn't believe how much of a mofo it truly is to kick over an upper 70 inch bike. I always thought, surely they can't be harder to kick then 80+ inch bikes. Then I learned ironheads don't really ever do what you think they should once you start stroking them, let alone bore and stroke.

Those rollers let me focus on riding, not kicking, the little she beastie.

Now that we have thoroughly taken this thread off topic, I return you to your regular programming.
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  #38  
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As Mick said "A forum is a discussion".

And hopefully, anyone who reads this thread will now know about the Q Ship thread and it could save them a lot of time and money.

OK, I will consider joining. Just for your pics. I have started documenting so many things over the years it's not funny. Do about two hundred words and quit. Too hard.

I found the magic number for starting engines in a 1954 Packard FSM. I asked every mechanic and auto elec I could find. No one knew, It's 400 rpm. I worked back from that info to do the gearing.

There's no way to kick and engine in a sidecar. Too low to the ground (65 mm). And the ones I have put on Methanol all run very high comps and even my big rollers struggle at times. The angle grinder version won't touch them.

But rollers on the rear wheel are a little awkward. The jolt when I drop the clutch goes right through the entire drive train. And it takes time to get them on and off. Which is a pain if something goes wrong (engine dies) just as your race is starting.

So I do want to do a crank starter. Dawned on me (finally) I just ave to gear it. A Bendix setup with suitable gearing. My mate Lewis made a direct one and it's a bit hit and miss,

Oh, I think FLH's have big heavy flywheels. The poor Sportster being a race engine has lighter wheels. No inertia. I don't know if Paul makes the Torque Monsters in stroker versions ? Might help with the starting. Probably easier to ride on the street too.

I sent you a PM about the L Series.

And so, back to big port heads.

I know Kibblewhite have the 1.75 ex and both 1.9357 and 1.950 In as I need a set myself. I think that's all they have now. Funnily, they won't do them as a kit with the springs, collers etc.
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