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Sportster Motorcycle Drag Racing Discuss drag racing on a Sportster Motorcycle.

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  #41  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Well, got the new brake bolt, have the brakes back together. Made a new chain guard (class rules spec min. ,090" if steel), got the tach sorted, oil changed, numbers on. Now all I need to do to be legal is put some fire sleeve over the fuel line.

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  #42  
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Well, Mimi may be a triple threat, but, my first ever trip to the dragstrip threatened nothing but my pride...



...but at least the bike looked okay

Best ET 8.611; best MPH 88.13. found it hard to get the throttle opened up before the top of first gear... couldn't seem to string two runs together consistently - going back for more laps to help strengthen that right wrist
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Went to Tulsa yesterday; got in 4 laps.

Kinda disappointing - had some issues. But learned some stuff, so that was good.

Didn't get a time slip on my first run, the info wouldn't come up on the phone app they've started using (they quit giving out paper time slips so they could open back up). Had set the rev limiter down from 6500 to 6k to see if forcing me to shift earlier would make any difference. Shifting earlier seemed like the engine was leaving something on the table

Checked a plug, went for pass #2. Air was real good, but kissed the limiter a little in 2nd and 3rd. Similar crappy 60' to what I ran in Sallisaw; MPH was a little off. Really felt like there was more performance to be had by shifting higher



Set the limiter to 6700 (have aftermarket valve springs so the N4s shouldn't float), and planned to shift at 6500.

Hit the limiter in 2nd. Shifted about 6500 into 3rd & 4th. Transmission popped out of 4th gear after the shift. Went in, but popped out. Jammed it back into gear and got back on it.

Cost me 6 MPH up top from run 2, even though I was up about 2.5 at the eighth. Yuck



Got in one more run. Left about 2500. My brother said it looked like I left softer, but got my best ever 60'. Then missed second AGAIN (had a problem with that last week). Backed out bit and putted down the track to a high sixteen. Decided I want going to keep beating this new gearbox; it DEFINITELY wasn't shifting as well as the one I rebuilt for the old engine, and figured if I tear it down BEFORE rounding all the dogs off the gears, it might get fixed without spending much $$$



Removed all the stuff from the primary today, find the pawl has burrs where it contacts the shift drum pins, and the detent plate has some small burrs, too. Obviously missed something when I put the transmission in and/or when adjusted the shift mechanism. Wouldn't put in parts with burrs. They only had about 3500 miles when installed; have only gone about 1500 since. ugh.

Left the transmission in, to keep dirt out of the case.

Pulled the blown up 883 out of storage. Pulled the clutch plates; frictions (Barnett) look okay, but the steels are bluish (clutch saw 10k with a lot of burnouts and wheelies); nut on the crank was stuck; pulled the last 2 threads off the crank (no loss, the motor bent a rod and had eaten a ton of shrapnel, so I figure the crank's a goner anyway). Pawl and shift drum pins look perfect. Detent plate looks perfect. I went through this one about 10k ago to fix buggered 2nd gear (had bought it that way), was dead reliable, so it's going to go in, and I'll fix the one I pulled as a spare.
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