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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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Old 27th July 2013
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Default Primary side tear down

I have a quick question. I'm going to be tearing down my primary side for the very 1st time to install a new clutch, rotor, tensioner and a Muller Power Clutch.

So far I have the new clutch and compressor tool, rotor, tensioner, case gasket and the Power Clutch. I replaced the derby cover O-ring and inspection cover O-ring last year when I changed the fluids so they can be reused.

Even though it hasn't leaked, I figured since I'm going to have it apart anyway I may as well replace the 16 year old shifter shaft seal. So, I'm going to the dealer today to pick one up.

Besides new fluid and the seal is there anything else I should get at the dealer to do this job? Can all the hardware that I'm going to be removing be reused or should I buy new?

EDIT:
With all the advice given by everyone here and from Aaron at Hammer Performance this is the complete parts list of the items that I purchased to do my rebuild and upgrade of my primary side and charging system on my 1997 Sportster. Replacing all the O-Rings, Retaining Clips and shifter shaft seal with new ones seemed to be a popular recommendation.

PARTS LIST (Component Source) & Part Number if available:

Energy One Extra Plate Clutch Kit w/ Puller & 15% Heavier Diaphram Plate (Hammer Performance)
8 Bolt Encapsulated Rotor (Hammer Performance)
Updated Heavier Primary Chain Adjuster Assembly (Hammer Performance) HD Part #39975-90A
Primary Cover Gasket (Hammer Performance) HD Part #34955-89A

Muller Power Clutch (J&P) cat# 630-871
Cycle Electric 22 Amp Regulator (J&P) cat# 380-613
Cycle Electric 22 Amp Stator (J&P) cat# 240-557

Retaining Rings, Seals, Screws and all O-Rings from Harley Dealer
11046 Retaining Ring
11250 Retaining Ring
37904-90 Retaining Ring
37905-90 Retaining Ring
37908-90 Retaining Ring
37908-90 Retaining Ring
11171 Insp. Cover Screw O-Rings (2 needed)
11188 Insp. Cover O-Ring
11105 Primary Case Drain Plug O-Ring
25463-94 Clutch Cover Quad Ring
37101-84 Shifter Shaft Seal
2720 Stator Screws (special thread coating) (4 needed)
32 Ounce Bottle of Formula Plus Primary Oil.
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Last edited by Gcram399; 7th August 2013 at 21:40.. Reason: Added Total Parts List for my 1997
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  #2  
Old 27th July 2013
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You got a big 3/4" drive torque wrench? With a 1-1/8" socket? The sprocket shaft nut needs it. Torque spec will probably read 190-210 although that later got revised via service bulletin to 240-260 on Buells at least. I'd recommend the higher spec on any performance build. Lots of people have had that nut come loose.

Also you'll need a 4" piece of steel to use as a primary locking tool.

Make sure you have a 1-3/16" socket too, for the clutch nut. Many socket sets skip right over that size. Torque on that one is only 75ft-lbs so a 1/2 drive torque wrench works fine. It's left hand thread, don't forget that.

Also a little Loctite red is called for.

Soak your clutch plates before installing.

You can just leave the clutch cable screwed into the primary cover while you do the whole job and just set it aside. However, be careful with it. It doesn't take a whole lot of abuse to cause a leak where the jacket meets the steel terminator that screws into the cover.

Th safest way to do that shifter shaft seal is to put the cover back on without the seal in place, then put some tape over the splines on the shaft and slide the seal over it. Then use a deep socket to tap it into place. I like to put a little grease on the inside of the seal and a little gasket sealer around the outside.
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Old 27th July 2013
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Thanks Aaron. The 3/4" torque wrench and big sockets I'll borrow from work. I'll also cut a 4" length of bar stock for the locking tool. I have the Red Loctite.
I appreciate the tips on the install. In the FSM they say to use a new snap ring (part# 37909-90) when doing the clutch side. I just wanted to be sure that the rest of the hardware is reuseable.
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Old 27th July 2013
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Grab a couple of those shifter shaft seals. I've never put mine on like Aaron suggested, maybe that's why I said buy a couple.

Your primary side tear down is more intimidating than it is actual difficult. Follow the book at tq specs and you'll be done in no time.
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Old 27th July 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madnss View Post
Your primary side tear down is more intimidating than it is actual difficult. Follow the book at tq specs and you'll be done in no time.
Thanks. I'm sure it won't be as bad as I'm imagining. I just want to have everything I will need "already here" before I begin. I hate to stop in the middle of a job to do a part or tool run.

It's funny that I'm now upgrading parts to prevent future carnage that may be created by the extra power created by my last upgrade.
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Old 27th July 2013
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A pair of circle clip pliers would be needed as well to get the circle clip out of the clutch to get to the clutch nut
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Old 27th July 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gcram399 View Post
I appreciate the tips on the install. In the FSM they say to use a new snap ring (part# 37909-90) when doing the clutch side. I just wanted to be sure that the rest of the hardware is reuseable.

Every body is a little different about things like that...myself I never re-use snap rings or O rings from critical area's ,they are not expensive to replace with new.
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Old 27th July 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadtrip View Post
Every body is a little different about things like that...myself I never re-use snap rings or O rings from critical area's ,they are not expensive to replace with new.
I picked up 2 shifter shaft seals just in case and got the new C-clip that the manual said would need replacing. They were cheap.
Now I'll just have to watch the weather for an upcoming rainy spell. Hate to have it in pieces when there's good riding weather.

Thanks for all the advice everyone.
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Old 27th July 2013
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Yeah, the shifter shaft seal on mine is leaking.... something I've neglected to replace after a half dozen teardowns. The other gaskets seem to be re-useable. Grab a few drain plug O-rings also, and you'll still want to add some pipe dope on the threads. Nothing worse than filling your primary only to find the drain plug leaking
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Old 27th July 2013
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I already have a very large selection of O-rings. Thanks for the tip on the pipe dope for the drain plug threads.
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