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  #11  
Old 18th November 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toe View Post
You might also want to do this:

Enlarged oil drain from ~.070 to .09375 (the tiny hole below the triangular patterned hole) and add threaded inserts as oil standoffs
toe, could you explain those threaded inserts further? What is their function? Are they hard to install?
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  #12  
Old 18th November 2013
benton benton is offline
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Hylomar is great stuff for sticking the gaskets in place, but it got hard-to-find when pematec quit distributing it. It's still made by the original manufacturer.
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  #13  
Old 18th November 2013
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Ok I'll try to explain.

Looking at the picture, you can see 3 holes that are in a roughly oval shape area in the corners of the middle rocker box cover. (2 per rocker box, only 1 is used per cylinder)

The one in the middle (triangle pattern) is where the umbrella valve goes.

With each downstroke, the air in the crankcase is forced thru the umbrella valve. The air has an oil mist in it.

The oil is supposed it settle out in this little chamber and drain back to the cylinder head thru the tiny oil (bottom of oval area).

Slightly enlarging the little hole lets the oil drain back easier.


Air that enters this oval(ish) chamber has to go somewhere. So it goes out the big hole on top, thru the breather bolts and out...........

The threaded insert just provides a lip around the hole. So any oil that drops out of suspension around the hole won't drain out the breather.

Just makes it a little bit harder for oil to go out the breather.

I just used the threaded inserts because I had couple left over from another project. You can use anything that does the same thing.
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  #14  
Old 18th December 2013
bitpusher bitpusher is offline
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i have never had any trouble with any rocker base gaskets, hd, james, cometic.

the rubber, on the other hand, can be troublesome. i got myself into a position where dealer was the only source at hand and they wanted double ($40) for a set. i choked but bought. am glad i did. they have redesigned them and they sit down and work much better.
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  #15  
Old 18th December 2013
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I've had good luck with cometic's sealing. Cantankerous to install. Held in place with grease. Didn't know the MoCo had revised them at that time. Thanks for the tip, Toe (couldn't resist). Next time she's down...
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  #16  
Old 18th December 2013
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Used aircraft gasket sdhesive,worked for me..
What do I know?
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  #17  
Old 27th December 2013
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James Gaskets.

Cost a little more but have good reviews.

Two years no leaks on my '86 using synthetic oil. Saw somewhere here that Syn oil leaks easier.
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  #18  
Old 27th December 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmack-1 View Post
James Gaskets.

Cost a little more but have good reviews.

Two years no leaks on my '86 using synthetic oil. Saw somewhere here that Syn oil leaks easier.
Original HD (redesign) been on the bike for close to 40,000 miles no leaks..

james gaskets leaked within 50 miles..the other in about 100..

I will insist on using the Cometic head/base gaskets, and HD rockerbox gaskets.
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  #19  
Old 28th December 2013
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x2 on checking for flatness. One of mine was warped and leaking. I worked it flat with a mill file and a steel straight edge. No more leaks.
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  #20  
Old 28th December 2013
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I also had no idea the Motor Company had redesigned their gasket set. I replaced the front on mine around 11,000 mile ago with James gaskets and no leaks. My rear factory set has just started to leak with over 17,000+ miles on them. I agree with Toe earlier in this thread: clean up the mating surfaces. I have a piece of 1"X12"X12" surfaced marble that I put a sheet of 600 grit sandpaper on and clean up the pieces. I bought to sets of James gaskets when I did the front cylinder, so I am going to use those on the rear. I used James gaskets on my Buell M2 Cyclone and had over 40,000 miles on those with no leaks by the time I sold it.
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