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  #1  
Old 11th November 2016
mrwilliamfox mrwilliamfox is offline
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Default Redline Gear Lube Shockproof Disaster

Check out this story (Nov. 8 2016). I took my 2007 883 Roadster to my local independent Harley Mechanic for a clutch inspection. They discovered a slimy, gummy mess inside the primary case, contaminating the clutch and gearbox. I used 80W Redline with Shockproof based on the recommendations from the Redline & Cyclegear website.

https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=112& "Popular for Sportster V-Twin transmissions"

Should have asked the experts first. My mechanic thinks it's the "additive" in shockproof that gummed up the works...what a mess. He replaced the factory clutch with a Barnett Carbon Fiber clutch pack and BelRay lube for sportsters. Check out the images in the hyperlink.

I'm waiting hear back from the managers at Redline about the "fix" not just the feedback I got from the call center representative.

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...mtHIUSCZqbgRAG

Last edited by mrwilliamfox; 11th November 2016 at 17:40..
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  #2  
Old 11th November 2016
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Don't know about Red Lines web site but Dave the Red Line tech sent me an email...


Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, in the shared Sportster primary/transmission the 75W90 is recommended, a product that has been used extensively and performs well.

The 75W90 is the product we have have used for a number of years with very good results in Sportster/Buell transmissions, matching the viscosity and type fluid called for.
The 80W Motorcycle Gear Oil is a lower viscosity than called for, the ShockProof gear oils can due to their unique characteristics could cause sticking of the Harley clutches.
The 75W90 would be preferred and recommended over 80W Motorcycle Gear Oil in these applications.

There can be issues with some GL-5 gear oils in certain applications. Some can be corrosive to brass, bronze or copper, not an issue with our GL-5 gear oils, they don’t cause corrosion, pitting or metal removal. In a synchro equipped transmission the friction modifiers contained in many gear oils can make them too slippery, though not the case in a motorcycle transmission with dog rings.


So if you want the right viscosity and dont want to worry about it damaging anything, go with Redline
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  #3  
Old 11th November 2016
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so you used the wrong fluid.. ?
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Old 11th November 2016
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Yeah, I learned first hand not to use Shockproof in a Sportster back in 2002 ...



This sludge was mainly concentrated in the clutch, although there was some of it everywhere. What a mess.
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  #5  
Old 11th November 2016
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splineman splineman is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hexnut View Post
Don't know about Red Lines web site but Dave the Red Line tech sent me an email...


Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, in the shared Sportster primary/transmission the 75W90 is recommended, a product that has been used extensively and performs well.

The 75W90 is the product we have have used for a number of years with very good results in Sportster/Buell transmissions, matching the viscosity and type fluid called for.
The 80W Motorcycle Gear Oil is a lower viscosity than called for, the ShockProof gear oils can due to their unique characteristics could cause sticking of the Harley clutches.
The 75W90 would be preferred and recommended over 80W Motorcycle Gear Oil in these applications.

There can be issues with some GL-5 gear oils in certain applications. Some can be corrosive to brass, bronze or copper, not an issue with our GL-5 gear oils, they don’t cause corrosion, pitting or metal removal. In a synchro equipped transmission the friction modifiers contained in many gear oils can make them too slippery, though not the case in a motorcycle transmission with dog rings.


So if you want the right viscosity and dont want to worry about it damaging anything, go with Redline
Considering the mess the shockproof has caused in the 2 bikes in this thread you would think Redline would be more explicit in telling people not to use it in the sportster, both online and in correspondence.

In other words i'm not convinced the OP has been negligent in oil selection.

We should always use a product explicitly labelled to be used in a Sportster, or alternatively for shared gearbox, wet clutches and of the correct viscosity.

Sorry to hear of your troubles, good luck!
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  #6  
Old 11th November 2016
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hummmmm????!
sure that aint some form of "tackifier" to stick the plates together when you hit the nitrous feed?
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Old 11th November 2016
shanneba shanneba is offline
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I too contacted Dave at Red Line before I used their product in my Sportster.
(I actually sent the same link where the product page says Sportster transmissions)

I was surprised they suggested the 75w-90 gear oil. I had expected either the MT-90 or 75w-90 NS(it does not have the limited slip additive) as what they would suggest. Dave did confirm that either of these would also work but they primarily suggest the 75w-90 gear lube.

I ran the MT-90 for 10,000 miles and I have the 75w-110 in it now. The 75w-110 is close to the same viscosity as HD Formula +.
I want to do a UOA again with the 75w-110 to see if the higher viscosity helps with wear. (My UOA for the trans/primary with MT-90 is posted here)

There is a technical document at Red Line's web site-
V-Twin Transmission Tech: A Better Idea Than Using Motor Oil in Your Transmission

The latest Sportster examples (2006-2009) are much improved in the gearbox department, as they no longer puff oil out the breathers. They'd better be, as its hard to check the transmission wear in later bikes—the "trap door" which you used for access is no longer around, so you have to split the cases to see inside. Important note: Red Line does not recommend running V-Twin Transmission Oil or Heavy Shockproof in a Sportster/Buell transmission. Always remember to warm up your bike before draining or changing the gear oil, since that ensures that you get the most complete flush out of the transmission.
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  #8  
Old 12th November 2016
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just throwing this out. I use mobil one syn gear oil. I use the lighter vis at first and then went to the heavier vis which caused shift issues, they say the heavier vis would cushion better and reduce noise but I went back to the lighter vis.
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Old 12th November 2016
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Why not just use the H-D Formula+?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 83XLX View Post
Why not just use the H-D Formula+?
That's what I run.
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