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  #1  
Old 12th August 2017
MJMSportster MJMSportster is offline
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Default 2003 883R - Choke Problem

I have an 03 883R that takes a long time to come off choke. It can take up to 10 minutes. If I try to go 1/2 choke she will stall. If I throttle, she will stall. Is this an issue with the intake seals? I cleaned the carb. The fuel shutoff valve (which is a vacuum system on this model) needs to be replaced as it leaks. I was told that running on choke for that long will burn oil off cylinders, so I haven't been starting her. I am new to riding and not a mechanic. I purchased an older bike to learn and work on her myself where possible.
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  #2  
Old 12th August 2017
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Default

I thought one of the guys more familiar with carbs would chime in by now...

I'm not that familiar with the particulars on the pre-rubbermounts, but what you describe does sound like a possible intake leak or vacuum leak. Intake gaskets are cheap and just take some time to install. Many consider them regular maintenance. See this thread for details. Also make sure the rubber gasket for the carb to intake connection is in good shape. I believe besides the vacuum line for the fuel shutoff, there might also be a vacuum line for a voes (changes timing depending on engine load). Make sure the vacuum lines are connected or are capped to prevent a leak.

Again, I'm not an expert but hopefully my post can bump your thread so someone else with better information can chime in.
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  #3  
Old 12th August 2017
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Screw Loose Dan View Post
I thought one of the guys more familiar with carbs would chime in by now...

I'm not that familiar with the particulars on the pre-rubbermounts, but what you describe does sound like a possible intake leak or vacuum leak. Intake gaskets are cheap and just take some time to install. Many consider them regular maintenance. See this thread for details. Also make sure the rubber gasket for the carb to intake connection is in good shape. I believe besides the vacuum line for the fuel shutoff, there might also be a vacuum line for a voes (changes timing depending on engine load). Make sure the vacuum lines are connected or are capped to prevent a leak.

Again, I'm not an expert but hopefully my post can bump your thread so someone else with better information can chime in.
Dan, you are hereby certified "expert"!
Sure seems to be an indication of vacuum loss to me.
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  #4  
Old 13th August 2017
MJMSportster MJMSportster is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Screw Loose Dan View Post
I thought one of the guys more familiar with carbs would chime in by now...

I'm not that familiar with the particulars on the pre-rubbermounts, but what you describe does sound like a possible intake leak or vacuum leak. Intake gaskets are cheap and just take some time to install. Many consider them regular maintenance. See this thread for details. Also make sure the rubber gasket for the carb to intake connection is in good shape. I believe besides the vacuum line for the fuel shutoff, there might also be a vacuum line for a voes (changes timing depending on engine load). Make sure the vacuum lines are connected or are capped to prevent a leak.

Again, I'm not an expert but hopefully my post can bump your thread so someone else with better information can chime in.
Screw Loose Dan, thank you very much. This is exactly the type of info I needed.
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  #5  
Old 13th August 2017
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Default

My '02 883R was very cold blooded stock and still is to a small extent even after stage 1 mods. One major factor in lean running is the idle mixture, does your carb still have the aluminum plug covering the idle mixture screw?
https://cv-performance.com/harley_mixture_screw_tuning
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  #6  
Old 13th August 2017
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Maybe a strong dose of NAPA gas treatment liquid will help. There are lots of other brands but NAPA is the least expensive.
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  #7  
Old 13th August 2017
MJMSportster MJMSportster is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom View Post
My '02 883R was very cold blooded stock and still is to a small extent even after stage 1 mods. One major factor in lean running is the idle mixture, does your carb still have the aluminum plug covering the idle mixture screw?
https://cv-performance.com/harley_mixture_screw_tuning
Thanks Tom. I will have to check on the idle mixture screw, but thanks for the link.
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  #8  
Old 14th August 2017
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Do you have a service manual?

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on the CV40 carb:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...cv_carburetors

I agree that it sounds like the Idle Mixture needs adjusted... but it might be more than that...

Does the Accelerator Pump squirt a nice shot of fuel when the throttle is twisted? Does it shoot it directly at the needle under the slide?

Does the bike have upgraded exhaust? Air Filter? The carb may need tuning to match the upgrades - that sometimes includes a larger Slow Idle Jet...

You should also pay close attention to the throttle plate position relative to the idle port and the transfer ports in the rear portion of the CV40 carb venturi... that positioning, and tuning for the proper transition to the transfer ports can also be an issue...

CV Carb Transfer Ports & Tuning

Also, does the slide operate properly - especially the slide diaphragm...

All of these issues are touched on in the Sportsterpedia reference... with some links to even more information...

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Reference the Sportsterpedia
An XLForum collection of technical info & advice
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  #9  
Old 14th August 2017
MJMSportster MJMSportster is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Do you have a service manual?

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on the CV40 carb:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...cv_carburetors

I agree that it sounds like the Idle Mixture needs adjusted... but it might be more than that...

Does the Accelerator Pump squirt a nice shot of fuel when the throttle is twisted? Does it shoot it directly at the needle under the slide?

Does the bike have upgraded exhaust? Air Filter? The carb may need tuning to match the upgrades - that sometimes includes a larger Slow Idle Jet...

You should also pay close attention to the throttle plate position relative to the idle port and the transfer ports in the rear portion of the CV40 carb venturi... that positioning, and tuning for the proper transition to the transfer ports can also be an issue...

CV Carb Transfer Ports & Tuning

Also, does the slide operate properly - especially the slide diaphragm...

All of these issues are touched on in the Sportsterpedia reference... with some links to even more information...

IXL 2 Relax
>>>> My Build & Ride Reports Are Here <<<<

Reference the Sportsterpedia
An XLForum collection of technical info & advice
Thanks for the useful info.
I do have the service manual, and there have been no exhaust, or other upgrades. The bike sat idle for a couple of years, and would not start until I cleaned the carb. Jets were either totally, or mostly clogged.

I am learning this as I go, so here is what may be a stupid question:

If running the bike with full choke for an extended time is bad for the engine, should I start her up to check the fuel shot when the throttle is twisted? I am concerned about doing any further damage. And I asssune I would need to run her with the air filter off.

Before I start tinkering with the carb adjustments, should I see if replacing the intake seals and fuel shutoff valve corrects the problem? It seems from reading through the info in the links that the carb adjustment is a much more intricate process.
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Old 14th August 2017
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Default

Since the bike sat idle for a couple years (enough to clog the carb) I would certainly replace the intake seals - and I would replace the rubber vacuum hoses as well because they can cause intake air leaks...

Also pay attention to the Sportsterpedia explanation of how to align the carb during mounting to minimize intake leaks...

Running the engine with the enrichener on has the potential of the air-fuel-ratio being very rich (which causes carbon buildup on the pistons) - but if the bike requires that extra fuel to even run, it can't be too rich (and perhaps does have intake leaks)... But it's not going to HURT THE ENGINE to run it a few minutes to do any testing you need... UNLESS YOU HEAR SOME AWFUL NOISES BEING GENERATED - If that's the case, something is seriously wrong...

Here's a thread for your situation:
Just Bought A Used Sportster - Checklists For Making It Right

I would get a decent Compression Tester (auto parts store - about $25-$50) - You need a 12mm threaded connection - Then take a good compression test...

Warm the engine up - Shut it down - remove the spark plugs - remove the air cleaner...

Mount your Compression Tester in one of the plug holes - Lock the throttle fully open (lock wheel between the throttle cables) - Reach in the carb throat and hold the slide up - Crank the engine for 5-10 revolutions

Repeat the test on the other head/cylinder - the readings from the two cylinders should be within 10-15 psi...

This will give you a decent indication of the engine valve train operation, rings & valve seals - a more comprehensive test, if you have low readings, is to do a leak down test...

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