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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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  #51  
Old 25th April 2018
Matt Black Matt Black is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Personally, I wouldn't use it - the 8000 limiter allows you to overrev the engine in at least the first three gears (probably 4th as well) - The engine is not designed to run there...

Second, it uses the K-curve - which is not as good as the Q-curve - but if limited at 6,800 (or 6,250) would probably do better than the 883 module...

For $35.00, why wouldn't you get the one I linked off eBay?

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I appreciate you posting the link, I'm just in the middle of fuel stuff right now and I was trying to finish that before getting into something else. I figured if there was a module for $35 on Ebay now, there would be one when I was ready for it. Then I saw this ad on CL for the module, an SE aircleaner still in the box (I need an AC), a coil and what I think is a flasher module (which I wouldn't need) $75 for all of it so it seemed worth asking about. If the module won't work, then I'm not going to mess with it, because I really need a petcock first anyway so I can get fuel delivery wrapped up.

If anybody in Louisville area can use it: https://louisville.craigslist.org/mp...548006814.html
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  #52  
Old 25th April 2018
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If you take a look in my build thread upgrades (see my sig line) I have used the Arlen Ness model 07-030 petcock - It has a lever with detent positions, looks nice, hasn't given me any problems in 5-years and is relatively inexpensive... YMMV...

07-030 = Straight Down Outlet / 07-031 = Rearward Outlet / 07-032 = Forward Outlet (depending on right or left location)

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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 25th April 2018 at 08:00..
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  #53  
Old 25th April 2018
Matt Black Matt Black is offline
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Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
If you take a look in my build thread upgrades (see my sig line) I have used the Arlen Ness model 07-030 petcock - It has a lever with detent positions, looks nice, hasn't given me any problems in 5-years and is relatively inexpensive... YMMV...

07-030 = Straight Down Outlet / 07-031 = Rearward Outlet / 07-032 = Forward Outlet (depending on right or left location)

IXL _ ___ _____ _______ >>>> My Build & Ride Reports Are Here <<<<
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Thanks for the info, it's right in the price range I'm looking at. I'm definitely putting it in my list of contenders. Would love a Pingel or a Golan
but it's hard to pull the trigger on one when I know it'll set the build back another month while I refill the coffers. That said, I don't want a $15 special either. I'm trying to balance quality and cost to get this project on the road by Fall.
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  #54  
Old 26th April 2018
Matt Black Matt Black is offline
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Back in business... USPS brought some CVP goodies today. I already had the fuel inlet, A/F screw and the James Gaskets rebuild kit. Today's delivery was the slide and Tuner's kit.

20180426_163924 by David Arens, on Flickr

The selection of jets they sent. I specified "883 converted to 1200" from the dropdown when I ordered.
20180426_163856 by David Arens, on Flickr

New "Blem" CVP slide on the left. Have no clue what's "blem" about it. Looks fine to me. The diaphram material on the new slide is stiffer than the old one and has some "spring" to it when it moves from position to position. The old material is much thinner and extremely pliable, almost like a latex glove in comparison. You can see the difference in hole size.
20180426_163318 by David Arens, on Flickr

I"m going to get it all back together this weekend hopefully. I did catch a potential snag in time, I marked where the original fuel inlet was pointing like it said in the video, so I could clock the new elbow in the same orientation. I'm glad I caught myself before I installed it, the factory tank was a left side petcock, this tank is right side. The tank it came with was an aftermarket fatbob style also with a left side petcock. I really won't know where to point the fuel inlet until I get whatever petcock I end up using and mock up the fuel line.
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  #55  
Old 27th April 2018
Matt Black Matt Black is offline
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While I was waiting for the parts to get here, I lined the tank with Red Kote fuel tank liner.
I think it went OK. They warn you pretty hard about having moisture in the tank and leaving puddles of the Red Kote in the tank. I'm good on moisture, I let a hair drier blow through it for a couple hours after washing/degreasing the inside. However, I'm a little worried about a few heavy drips that coagulated before they were able to thin out, but it is what it is at this point. Apparently if you have a puddle that forms, there is a thin "skin" that dries over the puddle that prevents the inner part from drying. If the "skin" ever breaks the liquid inside gets out and gums everything up.

20180421160414 by David Arens, on Flickr

20180421160334 by David Arens, on Flickr

This was some of the worst of the rust. It was a real PITA to get out. I cut four pieces of chain and shook them around inside the tank for a while. Then tried vacuuming/blowing the rust out. Got as much as I could that way and then rinsed it with water for a while. After drying, there was still some flakes in there that I could hear when I shook the tank. I taped a 1/4 in hose to my endoscope camera and stuck the other end in my vacuum nozzle. I guided the hose to the rust flakes using the camera and then turned on the vacuum when I had them within range. Once I couldn't hear anything when I shook the tank, I rinsed it again with a degreaser according to the directions and then dried it again with the hair dryer.

20180422_130132 by David Arens, on Flickr

Pouring the stuff in there was pretty straightforward. Pour it in and kind of roll the tank around to coat everything. Once you think you have it coated well enough, pour the stuff out back into the can. This was kind of a trick, my filler neck is flush with the top of the tank, but protrudes into the tank so the solution couldn't come out there. I had to get it out of the petcock hole which is probably why I had enough left in the tank to cause drips. I ended up doing a second coat a day later and still have about half of the quart can left.

20180422_170133 by David Arens, on Flickr

20180422_204945 by David Arens, on Flickr

I didn't worry about taping up my tank because its just bare metal with some spraybomb clear coat, but if you want to keep your paint nice, tape everything up.
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  #56  
Old 27th April 2018
Matt Black Matt Black is offline
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Here are a couple pics of the petcock area after coating.

20180426213924 by David Arens, on Flickr

20180426213917 by David Arens, on Flickr

The drips that haunt me.
20180426214006 by David Arens, on Flickr
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  #57  
Old 29th April 2018
Matt Black Matt Black is offline
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I don't have a parts washer so my cleaning was done with a pick set, small pieces of scotch brite, carb cleaner, brushes, paper shop towels and canned air. Before I started to reassemble the carb I took a real close look for any dirt that I had missed. I did find that it looked like there was the remnants of an old o-ring or silicone or something in the o-ring groove in the float bowl. It wouldn't wipe out and carb cleaner wouldn't touch it. I had to gently scrape it out with a tiny flat blade screwdriver. It acted like silicone, rubbery and stuck to the surface.

20180428_194007 by David Arens, on Flickr

Reassembly for the most part went OK, with one exception I'll hit in a second. The James Gaskets rebuild kit comes with everything I needed and then some. I have more then half of what was in there left over. In fact I got worried I was leaving so much stuff out that I started looking up part numbers to see what some of it was.

Their kit must cover just about every year of CV ever made. What it didn't have was the air/fuel mixture screw packing, which I assumed (key word) would come with the CVP EZ-Just mixture screw. Well it doesn't, it's an extra $8.95. Luckily, I was really careful removing the O-ring and it was still flexible and in good shape so I reused it.

I left it screwed full in until I reread this thread and figure out where I'll start it out at.

Mixture needle tip fully seated.
20180428_224512 by David Arens, on Flickr

FUlly Seated EZ Just Screw
20180428_224320 by David Arens, on Flickr

A new float needle and spring clip came with the James kit so I used those. I checked float height according to the methods in the Shane Conley video and surprisingly, it checked out dead on. Reinstalling it was easy, the pin had an indent from where I had used the punch to drive it out so I installed it the same way it came out. At first I just pushed it in far enough to hold the float, then tapped it in the rest of the way after I confirmed the float was set correctly.

20180428_220051 by David Arens, on Flickr

Of the new jets that came with the CVP Tuner's kit, I used the 180 main and 45 slow.
20180428_213951 by David Arens, on Flickr

I had some issues getting the emulsion tube inserted far enough to start threading until I realized the needle jet was not fully seated into it's bore. I ended up having to (gently) tap it in using a transfer punch and the small hammer. Even at what I'm sure is fully installed, the emulsion tube has a few threads left.

The accelerator pump went together fine, except I noticed that mine only has one o-ring and passage, where the one in the video has two. Mine has indents for those, but they aren't bored out.
20180414_231203 by David Arens, on Flickr

Now the main issue, and the thing that worries me... I had an awful time getting the diaphragm to seat without coming out of the groove. I finally had my wife come down and hold the diaphragm in place while I eased the lid down. In the Shane Conley video, he blows air into the carb port that lets ambient air pressure into the slide chamber. When he does this, the slide moves. I can't get mine to do that. It doesn't even twitch. I've taken the top off and reseated the diaphragm 4 times and everytime when I have lifted the lid, the diaphragm looks seated in the groove. But still no movement with air. It moves smoothly and without obstruction if I lift it with a finger. The needle is not bound, it moves around freely.

I mentioned earlier that this diaphragm seemed stiffer than the old one, could that be it? Is there any other way to tell if the diaphragm is pinched? There's quite a bit of difference in the size of the lift hole, I'm pretty sure the old slide was drilled out quite a bit, but I didn't try this test with the old slide. The choke is installed and whether it's in or out makes no difference.
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  #58  
Old 29th April 2018
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When the diaphragm is correct you can cycle the slide with a finger and when u release it you get a Darth Vader breathing kinda sound and the slide doesnt slam shut
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  #59  
Old 29th April 2018
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Originally Posted by rocketmangb View Post
When the diaphragm is correct you can cycle the slide with a finger and when u release it you get a Darth Vader breathing kinda sound and the slide doesnt slam shut
Cool, then I'm good. Thank you.
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  #60  
Old 30th April 2018
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The Sportsterpedia has two links to utube videos of what a bad & good slide movement sounds like:

Sportsterpedia - Getting Ready to Tune Your CV40 Carb

Be sure the throttle plate is set right. Then 2-1/2 turns out on the IMS to start - Idle drop method while running to get the final setting

The 'CHOKE' is actually an enrichener circuit to add fuel behind the carb to richen the AFR - If you don't need any 'CHOKE' to start a cold engine, then you're probably too rich on the idle setting...

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