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  #1  
Old 23rd July 2021
mgentry66 mgentry66 is offline
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Last edited by mgentry66; 23rd July 2021 at 12:09..
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Old 23rd July 2021
jeffro57 jeffro57 is offline
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type something???
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Old 24th July 2021
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Minimalist approach.

I like it.

And I think he's 100% correct.
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Old 24th July 2021
mgentry66 mgentry66 is offline
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ahh shit. i must have deleted my edit some how... god damn.

after I got the bike hot and made some compression tests which showed up at 165 on both cylinders. I started to wonder about the set up on the CCH4 the PO was using and the compression results I got.

The CCH4 states to use the "Race Only" mode when used with high compression pistons.

The PO had the VOES disconnected and the Race Only mode on.

how would I know if I have high compression pistons? Is 165 high? Does it work like that in test results being 110 in the FSM?

Also, I'm having a hard time seeing the TDC mark while strobing. I know I'm close with static timing. I thought I had seen some one suggest painting the TDC mark to illuminate it easier while strobing. Should I use a highly reflective color like white or neon green or would it be better with a regular black sharpie?

thanks
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Old 24th July 2021
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Without knowing more about the engine it's hard to say if your results are good, bad or indifferent.

165 is what I get on a stock displacement, fresh engine with PB cams.

I question the way many people check their compression. You have to do it correctly.
If your getting 165 on a good engine, that great.

I think the FSM mentions something like 90 PSI as the bottom limit. At 90 PSI you will have serious problems getting the bike started and it won't run worth a dime.
110 is an engine in need of a rebuild.
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Old 24th July 2021
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Oh. The timing mark.
On polished or steel flywheels black is good.

On stock grey iron wheels I like silver.

What your looking for is maximum contrast.

But I'm legally blind. Others may disagree.
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Old 24th July 2021
mgentry66 mgentry66 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
Oh. The timing mark.
On polished or steel flywheels black is good.

On stock grey iron wheels I like silver.

What your looking for is maximum contrast.

But I'm legally blind. Others may disagree.
If I could explain my procedure for comp test maybe you could tell me if I'm doing it wrong. I just fell off the turnip truck.

With the plugs out and grounded and comp tool in one cylinder, throttle wide open, cranked 5 or 7 times.

Would you mind explaining incorrect AND correct procedures and what results happen and why?

Hopefully that doesnt sound sarcastic. I'm completley interested
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Old 24th July 2021
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No, and most of that is fine.

But the test needs to be done with the engine at operating temperature. Cold results will differ.

Problems can sneak in with the cranking of the engine. Especially with non stock cams.

I do my engines on rollers. It ensures the engine is turning over fast enough and it's consistent between testing times and different engines.

If your young and fit it should be OK.

Unless this is a stroker I would be pretty happy with 165.
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Old 24th July 2021
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I'm interested in a pic of your roller setup, if I ever get the notion to make one....

90# is definitely the lower limit.

110# on a cold dry motor might not be bad, compression comes up after the bike has been run.

165# is a good stock number

190# is pushing the upper limit and will likely need a good kicker shaft and a long kicker.

I'd spin up my 10:1+ motor to see but its never been fired so it will be low.

It is really good is both the numbers are the same and healthy#.
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Old 24th July 2021
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Quote:
I'm interested in a pic of your roller setup, if I ever get the notion to make one....
I have two sets. One plugs into the mains the other is battery operated.

Can't generally use the mains powered ones on my race engines. Can't kick 'em, can't even push them. The battery ones I built are just about the only way to start the thing.

Have you seen this ?

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