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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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  #1  
Old 22nd February 2007
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Default Stock air cleaner box modifications

We had a request for a single, STICKY thread for everyone to post how they have modified the Sportster's stock airbox. There are several on here that have come up with some very good mods to increase the airflow and/or re-route the head breathers, etc.

Pictures of the mods would be great.
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  #2  
Old 23rd February 2007
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Default Modified stock air box and breathers

Thanks Shu. 1200C has a decent breather mod to the stock air box that I'm going to ask him to post here along with his photos. The rubber parts are on the outside of the filter so there is no danger of them getting directly into the intake. I would use silicone sparkplug boots instead of the plain rubber that he originally used (for better oil and heat resistance) and I might use some clamps or other hardware, but his basic idea is ingenious and should work well. There may also be a way to use steel banjo bolts inside the stock backing plate instead of the sparkplug boots, if desired, but that likely isn't necessary. So far he he's had no problems. There could be alternate ways to plug the now unused breather holes in the stock filter as well, as the modified breather's tubing goes behind the filter (the stock filter's breather lugs are cut off) and the tubing is held in place by the filter. This mod would also work with the K&N 8834 filter which fits the stock air box. I value the idea for it's simplicity.

I know that both 1200C and Kentucky also run with a stock airbox which has been heavily drilled to increase air flow.

Anyway, I'm sure that there are a bunch of creative guys around here who can come up with some other ideas for the stock a/c box. I'd like to hear them.

Dan

Last edited by Don Burton; 23rd February 2007 at 16:03..
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Old 23rd February 2007
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Ok... Let me get my photos together and resized and I will post tomorrow. Good deal, looks like a good thread, thanks Dan.

D
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Old 23rd February 2007
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Parts

1) 2- spark plug boots (silicone... as suggested by Dan)
2) 2- 3/8" plastic hose splices/connectors
3) 1- 3/8" plastic hose "T"
4) 18" 3/8" rubber tube (apx)
5) 1- small cheap gas filter
6) 2- small hose clamps

Steps

Cut the spark plug boots off flush where they make a 90* turn (see photo), these will then fit over the hollow (don’t know the name of the bolts) bolts that hold the air cleaner backing plate on and will be flush with the backing plate.

I modified the stock air filter by cutting off the two protrusions that used to go over these two bolts that let the oil into air filter, and filled the holes with JB weld (see photos).

I also drilled several 1" holes in backing plate for better air flow at this time.

Connect the spark plug boots to two small pieces of the hose with the plastic hose splices and connect these together with the "T".

Drill hole in bottom of air cleaner backing plate and connect another length of hose to bottom of "T" and run out of this hole.

I then put the small gas filter inline, using the two hose clamps, as I did not know if there would be any back flow of air into engine, thus no dust or dirt could backflow.

Then run more hose down to about two inches below frame.

ALL blowby oil now goes to ground, NONE into air cleaner.

The spark plug boots fit like they were made for this. The hose looks as if it belongs when ran near several other hoses and the filter is almost out of sight between engine and frame (behind engine). Hope this explains the process clearly enough, all parts available at my local mom & pop auto parts store.
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Last edited by 1200C; 23rd February 2007 at 05:42..
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Old 23rd February 2007
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Two more photos... Just a quick note... I joined this forum looking for a solution to this problem and really appreciate the ability to contribute to the fix. And thanks to Shu for the sticky.

D
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Last edited by 1200C; 23rd February 2007 at 05:54..
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Old 23rd February 2007
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Default

Dalton,

Thanks for your post and the detailed photos. It would be neat to see some dyno tests of this open airbox setup. Of course the box could be opened up much more for more air, if it needed to be, and not just in the back. From an armchair, it's difficult to know how much opening is needed and where, and it's hard to try to determine the behavior of the flow from the various drilled out points. If anyone wants to dyno this setup with the K&N 8834 stock replacement filter, the report ought to tell us something, at least as far as power gain over fully stock is concerned. I wonder how close this could get powerwise to the
H-D SE setup (on a stage I bike) which does have a larger venturi feature along with a slightly larger filter, but otherwise seems to be a rather poor setup due to pinholes, a dry, non oiled free breathing filter and warped backing plates.

As far as the breather is concerned. If concerned about the fuel filter being clogged by oil or mist and thus not allowing ventilation of the crankcase, one could use a T fitting in the drain line outside of the air box with the fuel filter going off the upward part of the T for crancase ventilation (where it couldn't collect oil as easily) while the drain tube would continue downward toward some sort of dump can.

Dan

Last edited by Don Burton; 23rd February 2007 at 20:01..
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Old 23rd February 2007
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Well, I didn't do the mod, but I did authorize it.

This mod was done by the dyno guy who comes to the Va State HOG Rally, at least the last two rallies.



You can see how much material was removed. I have a K&N filter but can't use it until I re-jet. Way too much air with the mod and the K&N together. Maybe when I get the Gronk mod done I can get the re-jet afterwards.
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Old 23rd February 2007
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Hey Carl! Do ya think yur gettin enough air in there? I like those big cutouts! Heck, if you wanted more cool as opposed to heated air, you could drill the edges around the top but I'm not so sure that any more would be necessary. Even if I did drill on the edges, I probably wouldn't drill the edges around the front, as it has the snorkel, but I'd pull the insert out of it to make the opening larger. I wouldn't drill the back edge as I'd want the rammmed air from the snorkel to stay in the air box. The top edge could be drilled if necessary, but I'd likely leave all of the edges undrilled just as you have as the air box is still fairly weather proof. The back of the filter does not rest directly against the cut out area of the back plate of the box and any water coming in from the cutouts would likely just drain down to the bottom of the box. A small drain hole toward the back in the bottom of the box could take care of any water that makes it's way in, but I doubt that the way that you have done it would let in much more water, if any, than the stock unit and should let in a heck of a lot less water than the open SE unit.

So, you've tested it and it flows too much air to run right without rejetting! That's what we're looking for! I think that you said that was with the K&N 8834 stock replacement filter. Too cool!

Dan

Last edited by Don Burton; 23rd February 2007 at 18:50..
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  #9  
Old 25th February 2007
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Default SEII Airbox Conversion



Here is my contribution to the thread.
I have the SEII airbox so I cannot cut holes in the backplate, but the breather re-route still needs to be done.


Tools and materials:
Drill with 5/16 bit
2 breather filters (NAPA part# 6988 or Purolator part# B13153)
JB Weld
Plastic tubing 5/16 i.d. and about 1/2 inch long
(I used the center spool from a roll of adding machine paper)

Stock components with new breathers.



The stock route for breather waste....nasty stuff.
Notice the holes I drilled at 4 and 8 o'clock.
In stock form, the hole on the right (4 o'clock) is some kind of stub maybe
used for something else at one time but closed off now..so I drilled it out. Then I drilled the hole on the left.



On the left is the hole I drilled. I JB Welded the 1/2 inch piece of plastic tubing to form the barrel. Let cure...then paint.


The breathers are placed into the barrels. You may have to remove some more material to ensure a snug fit in the barrel.
There is a lip on the breather housing tube that should be removed.


Reassembled



Total cost...about 6 bucks
My Sporty breathing better.....Priceless!

Rock on
Cookiey






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  #10  
Old 25th February 2007
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I had thought of using those same SE breather tubes (not the filters)and doing the same thing on a stock unit with the breather lugs cut off and filled on the filter just as 1200C has done. I have one question. Do the filters ever fill up with oil?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A small point to be made is that, as compared to the flat SE back plate, the actual backing plate of the stock filter or K&N 8834 filter itself is flat and is attached to the filter as an integral part of it and is not part of the convolutions of the air box.

Most people who have opened up the stock air box have opened it in the back, which may not well approximate the flow of the open edges that the SE has all the way around. Of course the stock air box could be hogged out around the edges as well while leaving enough material to hold everything together.

The stock filter and the K&N 8834 filter are both slightly smaller in diameter but have the same thickness as the SE. Neither has the enlarged venturi area that the SE has and the SE air box is much more open, if it can be called an air box at all. There is no question in my mind that the SE WILL FLOW MORE AIR with the same effort, but it sure would be interesting to see some dyno comparisons on a 1200 with a very modified stock air box, with material removed from the back and all around the edges. It would be nice to see what if any difference in performance one would see in a stage I 1200 modified stock air box with K&N filter vs the SE.

Last edited by Don Burton; 25th February 2007 at 23:21..
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