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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #31  
Old 20th March 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rottenralph View Post
The real test is. What happens when you twist the throttle full at 3000. Does it wheelie CJ.
As of right now it does not. It will raise the front to the end of the suspension but doesn't power wheelie yet. I will get it dyno tuned this weekend I hope and perhaps we'll see if the pipes are holding it back or just the tuning.

One things for sure.........it's not the clutch

Thank you Gronk, it's been my pleasure. I'll post the final pics and a summary sometime this week.

See you guys back in my 1250 thread after the dyno, Chris
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  #32  
Old 24th March 2007
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Well I've got about 250 miles on the new clutch and everything is good so far.

The installation is very easy just do everything in the removal in the opposite order.

Before you start the reassembly you should soak the clutch fiber discs in the fluid you are going to run in the case for at least 15 minutes.



Then assemble the discs in the clutch basket starting with a fiber then alternating steels and fibers until they are all installed. You should end up with a fiber on the outside also.

With the extra plate kit the spring plate that is installed in the stock configuration is left out in favor of the extra fiber and steel plate.



Go to the pics in the removal in reverse order to set up the spring compressor tool and the new 15% stronger spring. Make sure you put the spring seat on before you place the bridge on the diaphragm spring. Place the assembly in the clutch basket and install the spring seat and retainer ring.

Consult the manual for the orientation of the spring seat, there is an excellent pic of it there. I could not get one as it was taking both hands at this point.

Put the primary case back on with a new gasket, lube the shifter shaft first and push the chain up with your hand to clear the adjuster foot and it will go right on. Torque per the manual.

Screw the chain adjuster bolt back in till the nut bottoms (you did merely loosen it enough to back the adjuster out right??) and tighten the jam nut per the manual. If you moved the jam nut a bunch when you backed the adjuster out to remove the cover you will need to adjust it per the manual.

Check the torque on the drain plug at this time also.

Install the ramp assembly and adjust per the manual.

Here is a post to adjust your cable and ramp assembly.

http://xlforum.net/forums/s...19&postcount=4

This is a good time to either have someone hold the bike upright or put it on the lift and add your fluid of choice to the case. The level should be just below the opening of the inspection cover.

Install the inspection cover making sure the quadring is seated and the spring is in the cup on the backside of the cover.

Install the clips to hold the clutch cable, the shifter and left side footpeg and you're done.

The manual is indispensable for this job and you should not attempt it just using this post, I cannot stress that enough. It is because I strongly feel this way that I have left the torque values out of this post, they are in the manual.

The post is just so you guys can see the parts as they come off and perhaps make what you are reading in your manual a little more clear.

Hope this helps someone, Chris

Last edited by cjburr; 24th March 2007 at 03:52..
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  #33  
Old 24th March 2007
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Chris, this is a great thread. After sharing the info you got from Energy One, about the 25% spring, I just ordered the "extra plate" set, with the 15% spring. Energy One sounds like a good company to deal with. And thank you Chris, for all this information.

http://www.energyoneclutches.com/
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  #34  
Old 24th March 2007
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A word about the fluid used. Upon reading the instructions that came with the clutch I discovered that they discourage the use of synthetics with their clutches. Now I had been running SYN3 in my case since it was new so I called Energy One.

They said they had experienced slippage with SYN3, but not with AMSOIL or any of the other synthetics. Not having anything but SYN3 I asked for a recommendation and they told me to put B&M TrickShift ATF in the case. I found it at Autozone for $6.95 a quart and this is what is in the case now.

We'll see how this works out long term, but for now the bike shifts smoothly and is very quiet in the case.

If anything else comes to mind I'll post it, Chris
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  #35  
Old 31st March 2007
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What timing ??

I came in here and logged on with the idea of searching for some clutch info,on my 06. Because I'm not real happy with the HD clutch.

I clic on Clutch/primary etc. and the first post I see is this one, Hmm....

GREAT JOB CJ !!!

Great Post !!


Keep it coming
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  #36  
Old 1st April 2007
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I just got my Energy One extra plate kit installed as well. Chris is my hero and I want to be like him. Everything went smooth with the install and the clutch is operating very smooth. The lever action is not a lot harder in my opinion than it was. I also went with the Trickshift for my fluid. The instructions say, as Chris pointed out as well, not to use syn oil. All I could find the B&M trickshift atf in was synthetic so I went with it. I was told at Advance Auto that was the only Trickshift there was but I came home and checked online and saw some trickshift that wasn't syn. I went ahead with the syn and have had no slippage and it shifts smooth. I assume that is what Chris is running as well since the oil he is soaking his disk's in is blue. Whatcha think Chris?

Jason
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  #37  
Old 1st April 2007
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Correct, it was the synthetic. That's all they had at Autozone and I assumed that there was no nonsynthetic TrickShift. Perhaps a call to Energy One is in order to make sure we didn't screw up. They did say that the only synthetic they had trouble with was the SYN3.

Glad it worked for you, mine doesn't slip on the dyno or the street so I'm pretty sure we're o.k. but it wouldn't hurt to make sure.

Did you ever break 100hp ??

Chris
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  #38  
Old 1st April 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjburr View Post
A word about the fluid used. Upon reading the instructions that came with the clutch I discovered that they discourage the use of synthetics with their clutches. Now I had been running SYN3 in my case since it was new so I called Energy One.

They said they had experienced slippage with SYN3, but not with AMSOIL or any of the other synthetics. Not having anything but SYN3 I asked for a recommendation and they told me to put B&M TrickShift ATF in the case. I found it at Autozone for $6.95 a quart and this is what is in the case now.

We'll see how this works out long term, but for now the bike shifts smoothly and is very quiet in the case.

If anything else comes to mind I'll post it, Chris
From the looks of things it just seems to be an issue with SYN3. If what I read above is correct the other synthetics appear to be ok so I would assume that the B&M Trickshift synthetic would work just fine.

Just to let any of you guys looking to upgrade to this clutch pack, I scored a brand new one with the 15% heavier clutch spring on eBay for $75.00. It appears that there is source for them at a discounted price. PM me am I'll be happy to give you the sellers name.
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  #39  
Old 1st April 2007
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Good heads up jimbo, $10 is $10, how much was the shipping ??
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjburr View Post
Good heads up jimbo, $10 is $10, how much was the shipping ??
Just a tad over $12. I thought it was a deal. Now I'm looking for a deal on a spring compressor, I'm really cheap. I may of found one on the Motion Pro spring compressor. $48.00 plus shipping.

From your write up it looks to be pretty much a straight swap of parts, am I correct in assuming this?

Also did you look your old clutch pack over for any signs of slipping, where the steel plates blue?
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