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  #161  
Old 18th July 2007
Deimus Deimus is offline
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Matt,
I have Andrews N4 cams so maybe it helps me that these do not have extreme lifts; however, I have removed and re-installed my cam cover many times now. I have always let the bike sit long enough to cool off before removing the cover. I simply remove the front foot peg, then the exhaust, then the cam cover itself. After removing the screws in the cover, I just carefully pull it straight off. It is tricky to come off in that you have to pull it exactly straight. Then when I re-install it, I put some engine build lube on the cam shafts then carefully slip the cover back on. Again it is somewhat tricky to do because you have to be perfectly aligned and straight. But once I have it slipping on straight, it just slides into place. YMMV

Edit: Be sure to use your factory service manual. It recommends that you keep careful track of exactly where each screw came from in the cam cover since they are not all the same length. I drew the shape of the cam cover on thin cardboard and cut it out. Then I punched holes for each screw location. As I removed a screw I inserted it into the appropriate hole in the cardboard template. I do this each and every time I remove the cam cover.

Regarding drilling the vent on top of the cover, I don't see an attractive way to route a hose from there unless you route it up into the air cleaner.
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  #162  
Old 18th July 2007
Deimus Deimus is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuxBlue View Post
Well Deimus, with me being an electronic engineering technician by trade, I surely understand the value of your engineering, (let's call them "trials" instead of testing), methods. You have shown a very methodical and logical progression in your undertaking. What do you do for a living?
My degree is in Computer Science and I'm a Systems Designer/Computer Programmer by profession. What I enjoy is "problem solving" and working on tough problems requires persistence and faith that a solution does exist.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LuxBlue View Post
BTW, what's the "pucker" factor scale when you drilled that hole in your nice, shiney cam cover?
Actually I dealt with the jitters by telling myself that worst case would be that I would have a hole to patch with a bolt and washers while best case would be I've solved my oil drooling bike troubles.
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  #163  
Old 18th July 2007
Deimus Deimus is offline
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Originally Posted by blacksmith_wills View Post
Deimus,

Thats a big step, thanks for taking it. I'm curious if we really need the Krank Vent or any check valve for that matter.

The older bikes just vented to the air breather or to the atmosphere.

Truthfully, I hope that the vent you have installed works. I have been eying that spot myself. And I think it's a more rugged fix.

But I was simply going to install a filtered breather with no check valve.

The only other comment I have is that according to Horse the originals connected to the air intake on the carburetor. That would help apply some vacuum to the cam box.

Matt
Personally I do believe that having a check valve is part of the solution. Allowing a pulsing of air into and out of the engine can only compound the oil venting problems at best while a worse effect is that the presence of that air in the crankcase on the down strokes of the pistons will cost some engine power as these gasses are compressed.

I seriously doubt the environment inside the air cleaner would have any impact on the environment inside the crankcase. The reason is that the motion of our big-ass pistons will surely overwhelm any little vacuum inside the air cleaner. Remember after all, we do have free flowing air cleaner elements there. The only significant vacuum will exist inside the intake manifold and carburetor venturi.
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  #164  
Old 18th July 2007
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Originally Posted by Deimus View Post
My degree is in Computer Science and I'm a Systems Designer/Computer Programmer by profession. What I enjoy is "problem solving" and working on tough problems requires persistence and faith that a solution does exist.



Actually I dealt with the jitters by telling myself that worst case would be that I would have a hole to patch with a bolt and washers while best case would be I've solved my oil drooling bike troubles.

I also do troubleshooting for a living.......finding the answer to a tough problem is Very satisfying ....keep up the good work and let us know how your new mod is working.
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  #165  
Old 18th July 2007
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Deimus,

That fix looks great! Actually it looks much better than the inline air filter set up. I'm anxious to see how this works out. If it were not for all of your persistence and ingenuity I think many of us would have just given up on this. Personally I was about a step away from launching my bike over a cliff and saying to hell with it.

Thanks to Dan at NRHS as well for the suggestion.

I'm gonna keep the inline filter set up with a catch can just so I can ride for the next few days, and then if your report is good, Surgery is in order for the sporty.

Again... That set up looks great. Kinda says hot rod in a way.
Thank!
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  #166  
Old 18th July 2007
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Default Ride report

Yesterday I was able to get a 100 mile ride in with the custom crankcase vent. The ride condition that over stressed the "tee" vent was sustained high speed interstate riding. The route I chose for this test ride included a stretch of local highway about 20 miles long with a 55mph limit, a stretch of Interstate 90 (headed into the Cascade mountains) about 26 miles long with a 70mph limit, and some assorted back roads. On the twenty mile ride to the interstate I kept the rpms at about 4000 (going 60mph in 3rd I think) most of the way. The oil temp got to about 220. While the rpms were high I could tell by the throttle and engine sound that the motor wasn't working very hard. Before getting on the interstate I pulled over and let it sit idling a minute to see what would drip from the vent hose. Only a few drips came out though a couple of drips from the tired cam cover gasket also showed up. Also, the engine oil temp went down to 205 during the few local roads from the highway to the Interstate. Pulling onto the Interstate I accelerated to 80mph. I could feel the motor working hard by both the throttle position and the engine sound. The oil temp kept slowly creeping up until it settled on 250. It never exceeded 250. And the bike was not wet sumping based on the power available to easily accelerate it to 90mph whenever I wanted. I held this speed sustained until my planned exit 26 miles later. When I got off the Interstate I opened the oil cap and there were only a few bubbles in the oil. I let the bike idle a minute and again only several drops of oil came from the vent along with a few drops from the leaky cam cover gasket. I putted up into a mountain a few miles on the forest road at that exit and the engine oil cooled right down to 200 degrees. Returning to the Interstate I repeated the procedure home with the same results. I refueled at the end to check the mileage mpg and the bike got only 45mpg. I've been getting a consistent 50+ mpg riding 45mph to 60mph on back roads so this decrease in mileage confirms that the bike is working much harder to hold 80mph. Even though it is disappointing that I saw oil temps reach 250, I think this is only a result of the sustained increased throttle to hold the speed. The engine always had power on tap and it readily cooled down when the sustained speed was decreased. Maybe now with this custom vent, an oil cooler might actually take care of this extra heat from the increased throttle to hold such a speed.

I know this is only a first ride report and that it is only a mixed 100 mile ride so I'm not declaring a victory yet. However I'm very happy that the bike has finally stopped drooling so much oil under these stressful conditions. The rain has settled in here today so I think I will go get a new cam cover gasket and install it. While I have the cover back off, I may see if I can fashion some sort of splash guard to further shield the vent from what little oil spray it may be getting.

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  #167  
Old 18th July 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moedog883 View Post
Deimus,

That fix looks great! Actually it looks much better than the inline air filter set up. I'm anxious to see how this works out. If it were not for all of your persistence and ingenuity I think many of us would have just given up on this. Personally I was about a step away from launching my bike over a cliff and saying to hell with it.

Thanks to Dan at NRHS as well for the suggestion.

I'm gonna keep the inline filter set up with a catch can just so I can ride for the next few days, and then if your report is good, Surgery is in order for the sporty.

Again... That set up looks great. Kinda says hot rod in a way.
Thank!
Agree! I love the exposed look, why hide it. I'm seriously considering doing the same but will feel better (just me) running the hose well past the check valve and likely off to the left side (out of the way of the rear tire) with a breather (similar to my already trans breather) at its end.
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  #168  
Old 18th July 2007
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Originally Posted by Swankster View Post
Agree! I love the exposed look, why hide it. I'm seriously considering doing the same but will feel better (just me) running the hose well past the check valve and likely off to the left side (out of the way of the rear tire) with a breather (similar to my already trans breather) at its end.
Swankster
Regarding a "soaked" rear tire, my worst experience so far was when I tried venting from the top of the oil tank. On that ride, whenever I applied brakes oil would literally spew out and soak the rear tire. Reminded me of sliding a dirt bike on grass. (This is why no one should consider venting from the oil tank) I have to say that the ME880 tire even performed well under those insane conditions. Well enough that I know a few drops now and then wouldn't ever affect them.
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  #169  
Old 18th July 2007
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Default My experience regarding the installation

Since drilling and tapping the cam cover is a one shot deal, I decided to practice on a scrap piece of aluminum first. Regarding drilling the hole itself. I have both drill bits with traditional points and a Black&Decker set of bits that have a small center point and with two cutting ears on the edges. Using the traditional drill bit in a hand drill the hole always came out with a "lobed" appearance since I could never hold the drill perfectly still while it drilled. But using the bit with the center point and cutting ears, the drill steadied itself and the holes were always perfectly round. So this was the bit I used on the cam cover. I drilled an 11/32 hole and tapped it with a 1/8in NPT tap. Interestingly, the cast aluminum of the cover machined much differently than the scrap aluminum bar I was practicing on. When drilling the scrap bar, the waste uncurled in one long strand. And tapping the hole there was difficult. When drilling the cast cover, the waste came out in pieces. And tapping the cast aluminum was so easy compared to the bar that I was worried something was going wrong. The structure of the cast aluminum must be more crystalline than that of the bar aluminum which is probably some sort of rolled billet. I'm sure this means the threads in the cast cover are more fragile than the threads in the rolled bar. So be careful putting in that fitting.
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  #170  
Old 18th July 2007
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Deimus - Maybe you could turn the fitting around so it points up and run the tube up along the frame. If you adapt up to 1 inch clear tube, it may act as a reservoir and oil separater, and you could see what is happening. Even if the vertical tube slowly fills up, it might drain back down at slower speeds, that way you won't lose oil. Just an idea.
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