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SportsterSpive
23rd December 2004, 06:36
Well I did it, decided to tear in the bike and do my 1200S forks tonight. Suprisingly it only took about 40 minutes and I think I even got it back together the right way, I mean there were no left over parts or anything and I tightened everything down really snug. I made sure each fork was mounted at the same height, then squared it with the fender and axle. I left it at stock height for clearance, and it feels a bit higher, possibly because of the stiffer 1200S springs?

After everything was tightened, I ran it up to 90 on a mildly curved road and it was dead nuts smooth. The difference between the molassessly (a word?) mushy stock front and the taut new suspension is amazing. The bike feels so responsive and flickable, not quite Buell XB or anything, but wayyyyyyy better. I am going to have to spend some serious time playing with the settings though, because I can tell it isn't quite buttoned down and the rear 1200s shocks need to be adjusted because with the proper front, they feel all wrong now. Any suggestions for dialing it all in?

My last question is on the 1200S bars I installed. How do I know that they are at the proper angle. Is it just how they feel to the rider, or is there a mark I go off of (or have the holes straight down)? Any tricks there? the new riding position feels really nice. I know there wasn't a huge difference between stock and 1200S bars, but it feels good. The overall feeling of the bike is so different, it makes me want to go ride the hell out of it tomorrow. It's not just fun with the throttle anymore, now it feels like it can turn too!

--Sean with the world's only '04 XL 1250S :D

txsporty
23rd December 2004, 11:26
Sean

The bars should be whatever is comfortable to you!!!! :D

wickedsprint
23rd December 2004, 16:48
Congrats on your conversion, I have the manual for my 1200S if you ever have any questions about the settings or anything..I agree on the handling..they are fairly flickable..now imagine that beast with 70 less lbs...but then youd have to live with vibes :)

Phil R
23rd December 2004, 20:44
Wickedsprint,
I put the S shocks on my bike but didn't get any instructions with them (ebay purchase) Does your manual give any instruction for preload and other settings?

xl1200r
29th December 2004, 18:22
I was unaware that the stock 883 bars were different than the 1200S bars...

SportsterSpive
30th December 2004, 03:06
Through my own measuring, the best thing is can figure is that the 883 stock bars are the same as the 56113-98 (28" wide, 8" base, 3.5" rise, 6.25" pullback) and the 1200S bars (which are black) are 56110-98 (26.75" wide, 6.5" base, 3.5" rise, 4.75 pullback). Hope that helps.

--Sean

wickedsprint
30th December 2004, 03:16
Wickedsprint,
I put the S shocks on my bike but didn't get any instructions with them (ebay purchase) Does your manual give any instruction for preload and other settings?


Factory settings are as follows...Go full clockwise on all settings then back out to these positions for stock settiings for a 1200 sport front fork.

fork rebound...position 8
fork compression...position 3
fork preload...set at midpoint

Mark_Bench
30th December 2004, 13:28
Hey, Wicked, I did the 1200S fork swap on my 2000, but I don't have the manual, does if give draining and filling instructions for the 1200S forks>?

Turbota
30th December 2004, 13:42
wickedsprint ...

Does your 1200-S manual state the comp. and rebound settings for the rear shocks too?

Phil R
30th December 2004, 15:13
Thanks Wickedsprint but I was looking for S shock settings not forks. Can you help me?

wickedsprint
30th December 2004, 16:15
oh..my bust, the manual is at my new apartment,w ill try and get the settings today.

wickedsprint
30th December 2004, 16:16
Here is an article on how to do the oil change on the forks for the person who asked.

http://www.sportster.org/tech/1200sforks/

SportsterSpive
30th December 2004, 19:45
Good info!

--Sean

xl1200r
31st December 2004, 21:42
I wish you could get the 1200S bars in chrome or polished...I wanted something narrower, a little lower, and a little more forward than what I have now...

Carl-04XL
31st December 2004, 22:58
Hi All.
My suspension problem is that the stock shock has too weak a preload for my 270+ lbs.
I need about an inch more travel.
Other than loosing weight, any suggestions?

toadster
31st December 2004, 23:14
We are just sitting tight waiting for wickedsprint to get back from his old apt. so we can get that 1200s sport shock info... :rolleyes:

wickedsprint
31st December 2004, 23:23
I'm at the old aprtment..the manual is somewhere in a box in the new one, I am sory I have not been on that..buddies truck today was puking coolant fromunder the intake manny so been messing witht hat all day and likely all day tommorow..so much emmissions crap on these newer vehicles..ugh

toadster
1st January 2005, 00:27
Not a problem , i live in michigan and I won't be riding anytime soon.But I nearly uncovered her this afternoon... :tour but then I started :drinkbeer

xl1200r
3rd January 2005, 17:21
You can get a longer shock. If you call up someone like progressive they can help you out. The stock shock length on the '04 bikes is 13" (or thereabouts), but you can get replacement shocks that will ride much better up to 15" I think. That should give you the extra ride hieght you're looking for.

Phil R
3rd January 2005, 19:07
Carl,
I go about 225 with my gear on and replaced my shocks with the HD Sport shocks. Problem solved! No bottoming even with 2 up. I probably picked up about a half inch in travel as they are slightly longer than the factories.

Carl-04XL
6th January 2005, 01:17
XL1200R and Phil R,
Thanx for info. I went to Progressive's site and found 3 series shocks for my 04XL. There is even a local shop to order from. Now, all I got to do is convince my better half that new shocks are a "safety feature". That way I don't have to save up my lunch money.

:tour

xl1200r
6th January 2005, 07:46
Just a quick reference for handlebars.

I did some poking around at the HD site. The black sport bars are #56110-98. But they can be had it the polished finish as well #56082-83. Also, there is an even shorter version (25" tip to tip) #56082-83T.

Mechano
13th January 2005, 00:27
fork rebound...position 8
fork compression...position 3
fork preload...set at midpoint

This set up is for smooth highway riding not for sporty one... :frownthre

Please follow me... After 10 years of chrono-racing between italian Alpes and sicilian mountains I've a bit of experience to teach... ;)

Sport driving setup needs quite all closed compression, and quite all opened rebound.
You have to prevent the shock to compress and permit to come back as fastly as possible to get back stability in curves.
The preload has to be high for back shocks to rise the back of the bike.

In front quite the same setup with the right preload to permit a minimum of comfort. But preload more if you'll notice lot of oscillation when entering in the begining of the curve.

If closing all the compression valve the shocks (or forks) compress to fast it's time to change the oil.
Stock there's a 10W oil. On a stock pump system I use to mix 50%-50% of 10W with 15W obtaining a SAE 12,5W.
If you want a more responsive shocks or forks you need a more closed pump system so you can use a 7,5W or 5W oil. Don't use this oils with stock shocks or forks, it's viscous like water...

--
Mr. Mechano

wickedsprint
13th January 2005, 00:50
This set up is for smooth highway riding not for sporty one... :frownthre


--
Mr. Mechano

Don't roll your eyes at me hoss..they asked for stock settings from the manual..that is what I gave them...

Mechano
13th January 2005, 01:27
Don't roll your eyes at me hoss..they asked for stock settings from the manual..that is what I gave them...

Ok sorry...
Some times ago into ZRXOA (ZRX Owner Association) found a similar setup for the maxi naked Kawasaki ZRX 1100/1200, with all closed rebound and quite all opened copression. The bike goes like a shit and is danerous for sporty driving into curves.
The writer put this article into the tech session like the right setup for that bike.

Lot of italian motorcycle and racing books and magazines report engineering articles with mathematical demonstrations of racing setup, and I add my personal experience. And these set-ups are all opposite to the ones posted into ZRXOA forum and into your values taken from a user manual.

--
Mr. Mechano
Kawasaki ZRX1200 152HP
Soon (next week) XL1200C (can't wait put my dirty hands on this american engine)

wickedsprint
13th January 2005, 02:56
The reviews for the bike also state you will have to foll with the bike as it does not like to be setup out of balance..again..these were just the factory settings the person asked for to give them a baseline. It all depends ont he persons weight and riding type as to what the best settings are.

Mechano
13th January 2005, 17:28
The reviews for the bike also state you will have to foll with the bike as it does not like to be setup out of balance..again..these were just the factory settings the person asked for to give them a baseline. It all depends ont he persons weight and riding type as to what the best settings are.

I thought that if you need to mount a Sport adjustable fork and shocks, you have (or want) a sporty driving.

The driver will understand if the bike doesn't like to be set out of balance.

But it's also difficult to set an Harley with a so low ass, out of balance.

A bike the most up is back, and down is in front, the most will handle.

Exagerating in this way will give you the sensation to fall in the internal side of the curve. You can correct it lowering the bike back.

One of the most important setup of the forks is the triple tree sliding. You can slide the forks up lowering the front side of the bike. It has near the same effect than rising back.

There's lot of literature about this questions, and I'll post a good document from some italian race team to help everyone needs to go with the shocks.

--
Mr. Mechano