My '04 1200C managed to make 74 HP (5800rpm) / 76 Ft-Lbs (3200 rpm, nice and flat from there on up).

For power mods I have:
RB Racing LSR 2-1 Exhaust
Mikuni HSR42 Carburetor
Daytona Twin Tec Ignition Module

Don't have access to a scanner here (At my folk's place in Florida) but will post the dyno sheet when I get home.

Man, this bike sure rides and sounds nice. I'm considering doing some head work in the winter. Gotta think about it.

Nice Numbers!!! :clap :clap :clap :clap
:D





:dpepper :dpepper :dpepper :dpepper

I haven't seen many Dyno results for '04-05 1200 Cs, so yours is nice to compare to. I had mine dyno'd two days ago. I got 75.7 HP and 75.8 Torque.

Mods:
Big Sucker
Khrome Werks 2 1/2" HP Plus slipons
Stock carb with 45/180 jets
Two shims under stock needle

with head work you should be well into the 80's. I think cams would get you in to the 90' too. I have andrews v4 cams in my 86 with a V$H propipe and a worked over CV and it dynoed last year at 93h and 90 lb of torque. Sorry I lost the sheet:-( But I do know that much Hp and torque ripped the sprocket splines out of my tranny mainshaft.

Hi Daesdaemar: I read your posts which said you have 180 Main Jet, 45 pilot jet, and 2 shims under the needle.

I've had my 2005 1200 Custom for a few months now, and I have bought an Arlen Ness Big Sucker, V&H straight shot pipes & was going to go and get my jets and install all of this over the weekend.. but.. I was curious.

Per page 4-1 of the 2005 Sportster Shop manual, the factory jet for 49 states is 180 / 42. Calif is 185 / 42. So, why did you "stay" with a 180 main jet? Or did you have a smaller original main jet?

I've spoken to 2 different service techs @ different dealers, and one said go with 185 / 45 (cause they were 175 /42 --> which is wrong), and the other said go with 195 / 48 (cause they were 185 / 45 --> which is wrong too). Seems like the right thing is 190 / 45. Any thoughts?

Also, what does shimming the needle do for you? My limited understanding is that it richens it up a bit, but doesn't turning the mixture screw do this for me too? Did you unplug and back out your mixture screw?

Any comments appreciated.. I've read the Jetting 101 tutorial, and feel confident about the project... just wanted to gather up the right parts cause our dealers are closed on Sunday.

Hi Daesdaemar: I read your posts which said you have 180 Main Jet, 45 pilot jet, and 2 shims under the needle.

I've had my 2005 1200 Custom for a few months now, and I have bought an Arlen Ness Big Sucker, V&H straight shot pipes & was going to go and get my jets and install all of this over the weekend.. but.. I was curious.

Per page 4-1 of the 2005 Sportster Shop manual, the factory jet for 49 states is 180 / 42. Calif is 185 / 42. So, why did you "stay" with a 180 main jet? Or did you have a smaller original main jet?

I've spoken to 2 different service techs @ different dealers, and one said go with 185 / 45 (cause they were 175 /42 --> which is wrong), and the other said go with 195 / 48 (cause they were 185 / 45 --> which is wrong too). Seems like the right thing is 190 / 45. Any thoughts?

Also, what does shimming the needle do for you? My limited understanding is that it richens it up a bit, but doesn't turning the mixture screw do this for me too? Did you unplug and back out your mixture screw?

Any comments appreciated.. I've read the Jetting 101 tutorial, and feel confident about the project... just wanted to gather up the right parts cause our dealers are closed on Sunday.

I wouldn't call myself an expert -- everything I've learned is from this forum, but here goes...
I kept my main at 180 because that affects mainly WOT (wide open throttle) situations. Stock 1200Cs are a bit rich at WOT -- I don't want it any richer. Don't want to run lean, so I didn't want to make it smaller. Besides, I essentially never get into WOT situations. Putting shims under the needle really opens up the midrange which really increased my "get-up-and-go". Definately noticed a BIG difference. I did the shims about two weeks after I did the jets. Idle mixture screw richens it up mostly at idle -- thus the name...
I guess it all works, 'cause I got great Dyno numbers and the Dyno-dude said he didn't really think it was possible to make a stock engine run much better...

BTW: welcome to the forum... :)

In the CV carb, the 180 is too rich for a stock bike, but it's pretty close for a stage one job. The low speed jet is a hit or miss affair; some people swear the 42 is fine once you drill out the plug over the idle mixture screw and adjust it, others say they need the 45. It seems to be a bike by bike / combo by combo thing.

Oh, yeah - Here's the sheet:
http://fireandsteel.com/images/bike/Bike-Dyno.jpg

When I had the Supertrapp exhaust installed and dyno tuned, the tech went down to a 142 pilot and a 175 main. Supertrapp went down to 142 and 170 main when they tuned there Sporty. Mine still shows black on the discs, but it sure do run great!!

I'm still debating leaning the main jet out a hair - one size smaller. What do you guys think, based on seeing the dyno sheet?

Here's a closer look at the A/F ratio:

http://fireandsteel.com/images/bike/Bike-Dyno-AFR.jpg

Heh. Oh well. :)

Anyhow, what do you think? Should I lean it out a hair? Or let it be? Finding a dyno around here is a PITA, and that would probably be the best way to find out.

I don't know enough to comment on why the AF mixture dip in the middle but I would not go smaller on the main jet (from what I've heard about mixtures)

There's a mixture table at
http://www.knfilter.com/airfuelmonitors.htm

Don't need to be any leaner. Your more lean than rich over the whole RPM curve

I'm still debating leaning the main jet out a hair - one size smaller. What do you guys think, based on seeing the dyno sheet?

Here's a closer look at the A/F ratio:

http://fireandsteel.com/images/bike/Bike-Dyno-AFR.jpg

I think I'd leave well enough alone. Your line looks flatter than mine does. Mine starts out at about 13.5:1 at 2200 rpm climbs to 15.5:1 at 2600 rpm and then falls to 13:1 at 3600 rpms and stays pretty flat from there.

Ok, I kinda figured that. Just looking for some other viewpoints.

I thought I would put our AFR graphs side by side. Both of us use the Mikuni carb.

You can see ... they are pretty close:

http://fireandsteel.com/images/bike/Bike-Dyno-AFR.jpg

http://usera.imagecave.com/Turbota/DynowithMikuniCarb.JPG

22.5 Pilot Jet (air screw turned 2 turns out)
165 Main Jet
Stock #97 Needle with E-clip in the 3rd groove
Stock #70 Accelerator Pump Nozzle

The big difference is that they started your dyno pull at a much higher RPM ... but, that is no big deal and don't effect the graph lines.

Wow, very similar. About the only difference in our carb setups is I have the 167.5 main jet installed and the stock pilot jet (20) installed and one turn out on the idle air screw. Everything else is the same. Maybe I should give the pilot jet another notch up, and re-adjust the idle air bleed.

My A/F ratio is real flat, with the Mikuni, as well. I wish mine had been more detailed on my printout though.

Looks like yours is dialed in pretty well.

Hey bishop with that dtt why don't you move the rev limit from 5800 to somewhere around say 6200 you would maybe get close to 80hp. I turned mine up to 6200 and it made a big difference. With the stock valve train your safe at 6200

Yeah, I did that right after the dyno pull. What was weird is that I had it set for 6000, and it cut out at 5800. Now I have it at 6400.

Hi Bishop.

If I were you, I would pay to have the Dyno guys tube it in for you. With the dyno, they can make adjustments and verify the result.
About an hour and half to two hours should do it.

It's cheaper in the long run then the "Hit-n-miss" method.

Believe me, I know that. Problem is, the dyno was in Florida (Was down there visiting the parents) and I'm in New Jersey. Can't seem to find a good dyno shop here.